We’re doing the “Bash” off Big Sur right now.  6 foot seas, very closely spaced and about 20 knots of wind.  Just rounded the lighthouse a little while ago and have a course now set for Pillar Point, about 50 miles North.

Before the rest of the update:  HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANN!!  The Dolphin Whisperer’s birthday is today.  She’s garble, garble years young!  Have a great one, sorry we didn’t make it back in time, but will only be a day or so off.

So where were we?  Oh yes, we left King Harbor (Redondo Beach) at 0730 two days ago in thick fog.  Used the radar to pick our way out.  Couldn’t even see the navigation buoys until we were right on them although the radar clearly showed where they were.  Other than the fog on leaving, which lifted a couple hours later, it was an uneventful ride to Santa Barbara.  Got there around 2200 and tied up at the fuel dock for the night.  That way we were first in line for fuel when the attendant got there at 0700.  So, fueled up and out of Santa Barbara on the 12th after a brief 9 hour stay.

Flat water out of Santa Barbara toward Conception, gave Geoff time to do some baking (he’s so domestic!)  So, we kneaded a bunch of bread and he made biscuits and almost made French Bread.  The French Bread didn’t rise, so he made it into breadsticks and a scary looking brick.  Well, really more of a discus.  I used to throw a discus that was about the same size, shape and weight.  Anyway, the biscuits and breadsticks have been tasty and the smell of the baking alone was worth all the effort.

12/12/10.  1430.  Dolphins everywhere.  A hundred or so dolphins came over our way just now.  They look to be feeding so didn’t hang around to play, but always nice to see our friends.

I was just thinking that I was looking forward to doing a bunch of reading on this trip, but actually have only just finished two books that I started back in Berkeley.  The reason is that after two months I’m still not tired of just watching the ocean and sea life.  It really doesn’t get boring and is always changing so I can’t get motivated to crack open a book.  Also, I’m spending my time navigating and taking care of the boat, so that’s my excuse.

12/13/10.  0430.  About 12 miles North of San Simeon.  Really thick fog.  Can’t see anything past the bow lights, so I’m just sitting in the nav station watching the radar.  Fortunately from using it the last two months, I know that it will pick up something as small as a 10 inch crab pot marker (in flat water), so I have confidence anybody else out here will show up on the screen.  Still it’s a little spooky that you can’t see a thing.

1700.  The middle of Monterey Bay.  Right about sunset I noticed the oil pressure was dropping.  It normally never moves, so that caught my attention.  I watched it for a while and it was clearly but slowly going down.  Once it moved out of the “green” zone, I decided we needed to take some action, there’s clearly a problem here.  We throttled down and just doing that made it go back up.  Hmmm.  I checked the oil and it seemed high enough-about 3/4’s full which is where I usually leave it.  However given the situation, I added almost a quart.  We re-started the engine and the pressure is back to normal. Now we’re going to watch it and have set an alarm for 30 minutes which we’ll keep going all night.  For now, it’s been steady for over an hour now.  Maybe it was just a bit of dirt or something in the sensor that got pumped out when we changed the RPM.  We have been at the same 2450 RPM for over 30 hours, but I don’t know.  Keeping fingers crossed.

We got in around 8AM. Geoff grew up in this area, so he took the boat in to his old stomping grounds and was up the dock ramp at the King Harbor Yacht Club in one bound. Before I knew it, he had secured “guest privileges” for us and we’re comfortably ensconced here. Showers, leather couches and wi-fi.

I want to give a big shout-out to Dinah, who is the club manager. She has been a fixture here for quite a few years. Her hospitality is most appreciated and we have a nice spot for Charisma right outside at the guest dock.

How long has Dinah been here? Well, as Geoff, his brother (who lives in the area) and I were heading to the grocery store, Dinah cornered those two and wouldn’t let them out of the club until they stood by her “kids wall” where she penciled in their current height and wrote them name by the “mark” on the wall. It’s a special thing she does with “her kids” where she tracks them over the years. Geoff has grown about 12 inches since his last measurement. 😉

So…we’re just hanging here waiting out the weather. It’s Thursday. There are 13 foot seas and 30 knot winds a little ways up North. Nasty conditions given we want to go North, so we wait. Looks like we have a window starting Saturday. We’ll go from here to Santa Barbara (Hi Kelly!) for a quick fuel stop and then onto Pt Conception. Looks like Conception might be in a good mood by Saturday night or Sunday morning. We’ll round as it lets us and then head up the coast.

Whew, after almost 3000 miles by ocean and about two months, we’re back in US waters. A brief stop at Customs (they were very nice other than confiscating our limes, apples and some other vegetables!) and then the fuel dock and we’re off for King Harbor at Redondo Beach where Geoff grew up. He’s going to visit home and I’m going to catch up on my sleep and clean up the boat a bit.  Also we’re waiting out some weather before making the final leg North.

(Enroute to King Harbor, an overnight trip from San Diego. Warning: Vaguely philosophical musings ahead. Proceed at your own risk!)

Time: 2000-There’s a supertanker off our port side that’s bigger and has more lights than 99% of the cities and towns we’ve been through over the past two months. From fish camps to little towns, both Geoff and I have commented on and been impressed by the low-key, use-what-you-have, attitude in Baja. Inspired by the peacefulness and beauty of this starry night, the tanker and lights on shore are signaling that we’re bidding a wonderful, simple life, adios (for now).

2100- The Pacific Ocean is to Port. It’s dark, mysterious even a little ominous at times, but the darkness and emptiness provide a sharp and brilliant contrast that sharpens the stark beauty of the glimmering starlit sky. Los Angeles is to Starboard. Bright lights, lots of action and excitement but the stars in the sky become so diminished you can hardly make them out. Wind on my face, watching our course looking forward we’re going right down the middle between the two sides as Charisma works her way North.

In a similar way, I’ve also seen (and experienced) two different economies. In one, you can accumulate vast wealth but sometimes all that wealth can diminish a sense of life’s natural beauty and simple pleasures. In the other economy, you can accumulate beauty, nature, friendship, as well as maple syrup and chocolate brownies (my “payment” from several other boats I’ve run across for being a single sideband “expert” and helping them to figure out how to operate their radios. I’m working on a business plan for expanding on this in the future 😉 ).

2300- We’re getting close to King Harbor and SHOWERS! I think it’s been over a week since we’ve bathed. We sail 24 hours a day and take three hour watches at night, so you can only sleep for a few hours at a time and it’s gotten too cold for sun showers.

It’s late. I’m at the helm somewhere off Long Beach (Hi Christine!). Geoff is asleep until his watch comes up later.
My nose is cold.
My butt is falling asleep.
My tea burnt my tongue.
My bruises hurt.
I’m sleepy.
I put my nose in my jacket. Now my nose is getting warm, but my glasses have fogged up and I can’t see.
My hands are cold.
I put them in my pocket to warm up-my pockets are wet from the wave I took over the bow.
My hands are still cold. Now they are wet too.
I smell.
I love it out here.