A Moonlight Rainbow

Position: 31 degrees, 22 minutes south 177 degrees, 26 minutes east

I’ve never heard of one before, but last night I saw one on the tail end of one of the squalls we sailed through.

Moonrise Charisma. Nice weather early on.

Got cold when the squalls were coming through.

"Hey, you guys want to come out in the rain with me?"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yep, more squally weather. I gave Ann and Lisa very explicit instructions when I went to sleep around 2000. “Avoid the lightnings”. Right. I got wakened after an hour or so to consult on (wait for it….) some lightning that was approaching. They had the radar on and we were tracking a really big hit 24 miles off. After watching its direction on the radar, it looked like we should go to the left side and it would swing off to the east of us. Lisa was at the helm and for a while I continued to watch her path on the radar. Each time she turned my thought was; “That’s what I would have done”, so after one or two of those, I went back to sleep. A little while later I had the most vivid dream that Ann was waking me for something that needed looking at on deck. I jumped up, was just climbing the ladder when I thought: “I think that was a dream”. Turns out it was a dream, but a huge squall was just starting to hit. Massive rain, lightning, the whole thing. One thing I thought later was that lightning is awe inspiring to watch when it’s comfortably behind you, but terrifying when it’s in front. This particular squall is on par with the biggest I’ve ever seen. As we were trying to avoid it, it just grew bigger and swallowed us whole. Big, ominous, greasy dark grey inside with slashing lightning ready to tear us apart.

Somehow we got through it, but it wasn’t fun. The end of the squall was the beginning of my watch and Ann and Lisa were glad to dry off and get some sleep. I sat under the dodger waiting for the rain to stop, then finally some stars came out and the rain drifted off behind us. Just then the moon dropped below the clouds on the horizon and the moonlight lit up the rain squall we just passed through and that’s when I saw the rainbow. It was a perfect arch, about a mile across. The only difference with a daytime rainbow is that a moonlit one is shades of grey. There’s no color. It was beautiful in its strangeness.

Other than the squally night, today was a delight. Absolutely clear, ten knots or so of wind, just a nice slide. The only thing that marred the day was the head jammed. It’s stopped working and I can’t fix it while we’re bouncing around like this, so there’s nothing for it but to get out the bucket. Happy days.

It’s now evening, just after dinner and this is the night we have been anticipating the worst weather of our trip, at least according to the gribs I pulled on Monday and again last night. We’re right on the northern edge of a low that is coming across the top of NZ and it’s going to tag us for about 12 or so hours with winds in the high 20’s and low 30’s. That’s what we’re seeing right now. We’re down to a double reef and stays’l and doing 6-7 knots and are able to maintain our preferred course. At least for now. We’re all hoping for this to let up tomorrow. It’s not really bad, just a hassle. The gusts make the sails shudder, and the constant heeling makes it hard to move around much less cook, so canned soup for dinner and hope for better tomorrow. And of course I get to look forward to taking the toilet apart sometime in our future. Oh, yay.

A Surprisingly Nice Day

Position: 33 degrees, 10 minutes south 176 degrees, 13 minutes east

We did 150 miles for the last 24 hours to 1530. We used a combination of engine to get off the coast and then while I was asleep “the girls” set the jib and we motor sailed and then this morning around 0900 we put up the main and turned off the engine. It’s been off since then and we added the stays’l. The wind is currently blowing around 18 knots and we have a double reefed main and the two headsl’s and we’re doing about 6-7 knots at 55 degrees to the NW wind.

We ended up not having too much lightning last night although we had a number of rain squalls. So far the wind hasn’t come up, but we expect the 24 hours starting tomorrow morning sometime to be not so comfortable. That’s when the low is expected to impact the area we’re in as it (hopefully) passes south of us. Time will tell, but the barometer is spot on to the grib forecast, so I’m hoping it all holds up.

We’re also enjoying our new crew, “Orcinius Lisa”. OK, her real name is Lisa Danger, but I don’t like to use that word on board (even though thg German pronunciation is “Dang grrrr”). Fun to have her on board and she knows what she’s doing, so we can stretch out our watches and get more sleep.

See ya-

I Hate Lightning!

Position: 35 degrees, 12 minutes south 175 degrees, 00 minutes east

We left Marsden today. Destination Fiji.

A quiet morning at Marsden, NZ

Leaving Marsden. Little did we know what weather was awaiting...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a lovely day. Sunshine, calm sea. Perfect day to leave and get used to navigating large distances of water toward tropical islands again. We checked in with the shortwave net (PacSeaNet) so they know where we are and where we’re going. We’ll continue to check in once per day at 1530 local time to track our progress with them. Then we had a Charisma at “cocktail time” to celebrate our departure as well as our new crewmate “Orcinius Lisa” as we got ready for the evening. Dinner, which I cooked last night was heated on the stove and we enjoyed an easy bowl of ham, beans and potatoes with fresh bread we bought from the local restaurant just before leaving.

Once everything was settling in for a seemingly nice evening-zzzzzappp! Lightning. Damn. That’s no bueno. On goes the radar to check for a return. Nothing. Nada. We can’t see it. Must still be too far away. Well, that’s good.

And so it goes on our first night out. We know we’re going to hit some unsettled weather. It’s part of leaving NZ in the winter. But we thought it would wait until at least tomorrow. Oh well. We’ll see how the night goes and hope for the best. If we can paint it on the radar maybe we can steer around it.

Check back tomorrow to see how the night went. I for one would be fine hearing-“No worries mate, it was a nice night!”

The Night Before

Leaving for Fiji that is. Looks like a decent weather window, so we’re leaving on Monday (tomorrow). Not a perfect one, we’ll probably see some squally weather in the first couple days, but it’s winter down here. If you wait for perfect weather, you could be here ’till Spring.

So, if we go fast the first 300 or so miles, we should be able to stay out on the far edge of the low that’s coming across the Tasman. Tomorrow looks to be the only window for at least another week. The low will slide over NZ on Tuesday give or take, and bring poor weather for a while.

So…Orcinius Lisa will come on board for the trip (yay!) at 0900 tomorrow, the customs guy should show up at 1000, then a quick trip to the duty free liquor for rum and we’re off before noon.

At least that’s the plan.

Charisma’s ready and looking forward to showing off her new sails!

We’ll miss New Zealand, but are looking forward to warm weather and white sand beaches. Heading back to summer!

Dried Peas?

This blog is inspired by our conversation as Bob prepared dinner last night. Since we are a few days off of actually heading out I have not done the final fresh food provisioning. This makes our meals out here in Marsden, a marina two hours by boat out of Whangarei and closer to the ocean to leave, a bit more of a challenge. No running to the store for one needed ingredient.

So as Bob prepared a lovely fettuccine with prawns we pondered what vegetable we wanted to enjoy with it. And you guessed it we came up with dried peas! If you had told me a year ago that I would be looking forward to dried peas for dinner I would have laughed. But seriously, have you tasted canned peas?

In New Zealand I found Surprise dried Peas! And Surprise dried Beans! Rehydrate them and they rival frozen veggies. Consider the size of our freezer (4″ x 12″ x 8″) and you can get a better appreciation for the dried peas! Remember-our tiny freezer is half full of ice cube trays!

The other surprise food of New Zealand is canned tuna fish. I love tuna fish and we could eat it everyday for lunch. The issue in New Zealand is which flavor do you want? PLAIN in water please! That can be difficult to find. They have it flavored with everything from mayo to lemon pepper to chili pepper to smoked/barbecued and packed in oil. Truly, there are at least ten varieties on the shelf. I just want plain tuna, thank you.

They do the same with chicken. Just plain Kirkland chicken in the large can please.

But we adjust…

From Bob: my only add for today is that I managed to stab myself in the nose with a screwdriver! I was tucked down in the lazarette pulling on a hose with said screwdriver in hand and my hand slipped. Note to self- don’t hold the screwdriver with the sharp part facing you unless you want to seriously compete in a Twit Race. Oh well, now I can tell people Ann punched me!

Later in the day, I managed to burn my finger working on a new hand line for fishing. Don’t ask. I think I’m getting bored waiting for our weather window.

It’s been raining all day. It’s raining now at 1800. The only good thing about that is I have a Charisma in hand. 😉

Bye, Bye, Whangarei

Sad to see you go (for now).

The new, almost finished, drawbridge.

We had to leave by this weekend since they will be closing the bridge for five days starting Monday in order to put the drawbridge part in place.  Lots of other folks are scrambling to get out by the end of the week, so we opted to leave a little early and beat the rush.

We had a nice ride downriver and out to Marsden, which is just a half mile or so inside the bay from the ocean.  It was great to get Charisma back out and running.  I was a bit anxious at first, not having driven her in the six months we’ve been in New Zealand.  But by the end of the two hours it was back to business as usual.  I even managed to back her into the fuel dock to top the tank.  Backing is always a bit hit or miss on a full keel boat.  Went off nicely though.

As far as the top off, we got a bit of a surprise.  Charisma is supposed to have a 100 gallon fuel tank.  The previous owner expressed some scepticsm about that number, so I have in turn given it a healthy margin and planned as if she only held 75 gallons.  Imagine my surprise when upon filling up after completely emptying the tank when we cleaned it last week-when I found she actually only holds 70 gallons when topped off to the brim!  Wow. I’ve in fact had a couple times when I’ve used 65 or so gallons thinking I had a safe margin. Well, that’s why we carry an extra 10 gallons in jerry jugs.  They are my “just in case” plan for if our fuel economy changes or there’s a fuel leak or something. Looking in the log, I saw one post by the previous owner that they put in 69 gallons.  Talk about close calls.

At the dock in Marsden.

Under the category of “You’re never really ready to leave”-on the way downriver, we took the cover off the compass and found it mysteriously low in fluid.  There’s a bit of a bubble at the top.  I’m going to have to take it apart and fill it.  I imagine there’s a fill hole on the bottom, but since this is another project I’ve never done, we’ll see.  A boat-owner’s work is never done.

It's always something...

So…bottom line for now.  Looks like there might be a weather window opening up next Tuesday or so.  We’ll continue to track it, but it the low that’s coming across from Australia continues as advertised, we wait until it just passes over and leave with the southeast winds heading north.

 

People Make Me Smile!

Sometimes I think about how I am half way around the world away from “my people” and then a day like today happens.

We are getting ready to leave New Zealand. We are headed out of Whangarei tomorrow morning.  We arrived in New Zealand six months and two days ago.  Wow.  Where did the time go?

We sold our car back to the Cars for Cruiser guy yesterday and so are on foot today.  Bob and I walked into town to cash the check and run a few errands.

As we walked along the river we noticed an incoming sailboat-which is unusual because most people are headed out.  We took a closer look at the name and it is “Reality” from San Francisco!  Okay, just that is cool, but it is more fun than that.  I was alerted to watch for “Reality” by my friend Lynn Dunn.  This is her cousin who has been sailing for years and we are now set to cross paths!  How could we resist?  So Bob and I found “Reality” having just docked in Town Basin and introduced ourselves.  Very small world.  And we walked away excited to have met some new friends who we are pretty sure we will see again in Fiji!

We had lunch at a little café where we have become regulars after only five visits.  Matt and his partner own the place and are from the US.  Immediate friends when they heard our “accents”.  A great bowl of mussel chowder and a sincere good bye and good wishes and we were on our way.

We got back to Charisma and spent the afternoon packing up the dinghy and paddleboards and getting ready to depart.  And really trying to get stuff put away so that Janette and Alistair (of Riddlesden Bed and Breakfast fame) could see Charisma at her finest. (The first time they came aboard I had directed them to go say hi to Bob while I went to church.  Oops – I forgot the boat was a mess due to provisioning in progress). And Charisma is looking good!  Just in time for Charismas with our favorite Kiwis (imported from Scotland).  Heartfelt hugs and a promise to see them again in November ended our time with them.  What great people who really made our experience in New Zealand special!

And speaking of great people (see, it just keeps coming!)… we have procured extra crew for our jump to Fiji!  True!  Since Orcinius is still undergoing “construction” and unable to head to Fiji with us, John has agreed to stay here in New Zealand and oversee the project while Lisa joins us for our sail to Fiji! Poor Bob!  Ann and Lisa on the same boat for how long!  Stay tuned for many stories to come!

(From Bob:  OK, Ann and Lisa-Wow, I may be overwhelmed!  But, I’m looking forward to the company and camaraderie.  And this means John will fly up and join us for a while in Fiji.  Fun!  We’re still hoping Orcinius will make it back in the water in time to actually sail up there, but at least we’ll enjoy the company of our good friends for a while as we explore this new area.

Also, Lisa made a beautiful, handmade, cross-stitched, bookmark for Ann as a going away present.  Check it out).

John and Lisa with Ann

The beautiful bookmark Lisa made for Ann

OK, one last thing for the “boat geeks” who made it this far in today’s post.  What does it really take to finally be able to leave.  A bunch of boring, simple stuff like: deflate and fold the dinghy and paddleboards, fill the water tank and jerry jugs with fresh water while we have lots of it, tie the folded dinghy down with the 130 % jib onto the foredeck, secure the jerry jugs, do some final charging of electronic devices while we have dock power, secure loose stuff down below, do the last load of laundry–the list really goes on and on and you are never really ready.  Tomorrow, ready or not, we’ll leave around 10AM for Marsden which at least gets us back down the river we came up all those months ago.  From there we’re only a short mile to the ocean, so no worries about the tides, current and bridges that we have to deal with to go down-river.  We will be free to go out and do some “shakedown sailing” or if the weather opens, just leave.  Well, we still have to clear customs, but that’s another story…

 

Car Sold. Time To Go North

North into the tropics! Upside down from our usual US-Centric point of view, but geo-correct from down under (in Enzed).

We drove north in convoy with help from Orcinius John and Lisa to Opua to sell our car back. It worked as advertised and we got a nice check for the original cost of the car less $2000. Not too bad for six months use! Said denizens of Orcinius then drove us back to Whangarei and we were home in time for Charismas aboard Charisma.

Our next step is to find two weather windows. One to get up the coast for a shakedown cruise to Opua to test all our boatwork and new sails. It’s also where we will check out of the country. The second window needed is to get north from New Zealand’s winter weather pattern and into the tropics on our 1100 odd mile trek to Fiji.

Stay tuned as we’re getting close. Step one will likely be in the next few days.

Time for a hike and other distractions

Our days are winding down in Whangarei.  That means that I am torn between completing the provisioning / packing of the boat and enjoying the beauty of the area.  Fortunately the weather has helped this choice for many of our days.  That means rain. Lots and lots of rain.  And I am tired of it!  So when a sunny day came along and our friend Robin suggested a hike, I was all in!  (Bob needed to change the oil.)

So I grabbed Lisa (Orcinius) ) and off we went to Smugglers’ Cove with Robin. This hike ended up being the hike I saw from Charisma as we first tried to anchor as we headed toward Whangarei.

The hike we took started at Urqharts Bay, where we had been diving for Day 2 of our certification, up over the hill to the point that we rounded coming into Whangarei.  And the rain was gone and the sun shone!

Beautiful trees with a beautiful bench!

We hiked up to a point where we could see the Pacific Ocean and the infamous Smugglers’ Cove.  Glorious!

Lisa and Ann at Smugglers' Cove

No one would believe it rained all day the previous day.  Today we saw pukekos, the New Zealand purple swamphens and one of my favorite birds. Kind of a cross between a hen and a roadrunner.

And if you looked really close you could fine the Hobbit Holes.  We did!

We found a Hobbit Hole!

Okay, this is Ann writing this so I need to show you more views….

Smugglers' Cove

Kinda of looks like Petaluma, doesn't it?

Oh, and did I tell you about the cool mailbox we saw on the way to the hike?

Only in New Zealand does and old outboard become a mailbox!

As you can tell it was a fabulous hike.  But reality calls and if we are going to leave for Fiji we need to finish packing the boat.  See what is left to get put away?

 

Where is all this stuff going???!

Heck, let Bob figure that out, I hear there is a quilt show at the local Art Museum!  True! So I rallied Lisa and off we went again! The Reyburn House, right here in Town Basin is home to wonderful shows and this month it features quilts!  Look at what we saw!The theme was “Connections” and these ladies created some amazing interpretations. My heart sings!

The Challenge Theme was Connections and these ladies did it well!

The Reyburn House

I know it seems like I play a lot but after this fun interlude I did go back to Charisma and Bob and I finished sorting and packing the V-berth.  This is huge.  This is our garage and stores everything!  Paddleboards, sails, extra clothes and food!  Can’t leave for Fiji until it is organized!  Now we are a step closer and looking for that weather window!

 

 

Medical Clearance

This post is from Ann.
While Bob has been busy geeking out on the electronics (necessary though geeky) I have been busy with final provisions. Always seems to be one more thing to get.

Yesterday I scored a huge victory when our friend Robin, an ER Doctor, asked about our medical supplies and offered to review them with me. I can’t tell you how fortunate I feel for having Robin walk through all that we have and discuss our medical options based on these supplies. As a result I have a much better understanding of what medical steps to take in case of infections, emergencies, etc.

Wow! I thought we we in great shape and truly we were not in bad shape but based on Robin’s help and a trip to the local pharmacy we are set. I recommend every cruiser find this kind of resource. Thanks so much, Robin!