Quick Note Tonight

Position: 17 degrees, 06 minutes south; 148 degrees, 22 minutes west

Just a short note tonight. It’s too bumpy to type. Beautiful night last night, but today’s been bouncing and squally and tonight looks like more of the same. Not the most comfortable sailing.

The good news is that we’re 64 NM from Papeete, so right on schedule for landfall at first light. We’re still maintaining our planned 5 knots average speed and there’s plenty of wind to get us there, so we only have the jib up and it’s about 50% furled. The wind shifted so the broad-reach has turned into more of a beam reach which is making it a bit wet too as the 2 meter waves occasionally splash the cockpit (like just now as I typed this I could hear water sloshing down the deck above my head).

That’s about all I can manage for now. We’ll check in with a more complete passage report tomorrow.

Fakarava to Papeete, Tahiti

Position: 16 degrees, 43 minutes south; 146 degrees 21 minutes west

The GPS view of the pass. The soundings are in feet

We’re off once more to new places. This time we’ve left the Tuamotus and are enroute to the Society Islands, principal among them, Tahiti. Right now, it’s an hour after sunset. There’s fresh bread cooling on the stove and I’m heating the dinner I made last night in the pressure cooker. It’s handy because yesterday I cooked beans, pancetta, and potatoes and just left the pressure cooker sealed after heating. No need for refrigeration. Today, I dumped a can of chicken in with a little more water and now it’s heating up. Ann made the bread dough a couple days ago and just threw it in the oven around 1700. It cooked while we enjoyed a Charisma at sunset. Good thing we got all that stuff done yesterday since it’s very bumpy/bouncy and cooking from scratch would be very difficult right now.

Our present course is 240 magnetic. We’re doing 5.5 knots. The wind is out of the east, southeast. There are two wave patterns. The trade wind generated waves coming out of the east and a larger ocean swell is coming out of the south. The combination is what’s making the bumpy ride. The southerly swell is about 4-6 feet and the east trade waves are about 4 feet. Sometimes they combine into a little pyramid and knock us about. Anyway, stars are out as are the trade-wind puffys (little cumulous clouds). Hopefully we can avoid having squalls tonight.

This morning we woke up around 0700 to rain and squally, cloudy weather. We couldn’t even see the shore through the rain. I thought we were going to stay at anchor for another day, but as we sat with our coffee the weather cleared and we were able to proceed with our planned 0830 (ish) departure. We wanted to hit slack water at the reef pass, but as usual in these waters, our anchor was fouled in the coral. Not really badly, but it took an hour to get it in the boat. By the time it was up it was past slack water and we had about a 2 knot flood current pushing against us as we negotiated the pass. It went smoothly though with Ann calling our “left”, “right” from the quarterberth where the GPS is as she watched our progress on the screen versus our line in the lagoon from a few days ago. I love the Tuamotus, but I don’t love going through these passes. They are very nerve wracking with their unpredictable tides, currents, and of course the treacherous coral reefs.

We’ll be approximately 48 hours between Fakarava and Papeete, so this is the first night of a two night passage. We hope to hold this speed which would put us offshore our destination in the early morning. If that goes as planned we’ll either slow down during the night or heave to offshore until morning. We hope to make landfall around 0900 on Wednesday the 20th.

Time for dinner… More on the passage tomorrow.