Yep, Ann is now baptized into the sailing life.  She drove the boat a good deal of the time yesterday as we were making our way back inshore from about 40 miles out off of Baja.  Spinnaker up, cruising along at 5 knots, with 7 knots apparent wind, Ann was in charge.  As the moon came up later in the evening, she continued channeling her new persona by locking her keen eyes on the horizon and practically channeling Melville himself, when she exclaimed: “I see something over there!  It looks like a blown-out spinnaker”.  Well, I have to tell you, it got my attention that Ann even knew what a blown-out spinnaker was!  Unfortunately for the “Salty Dog”, as we now call her, Diane quickly set her straight; “Ann, that’s the moon rising”.  So the trip continues.

In fact, the moon rising (or blown out spinnaker, if you’re Ann “The Salty Dog” Adams) was just the beginning of a most beautiful night as we headed toward the finish of the first leg.  The stars just surrounded us in all directions down to the horizon and were just stunning in their beauty.  Geoff and Jansen said to add that we were; “escorted by Dolphins, shooting stars and a warm breeze as we make our way past Cedros Island toward Bahia Tortuga”.

We arrived in Bahia Tortuga at 0330 last night.  Always a thrill entering an unfamiliar harbor in the dark.  Very cool to have the radar to help guide us to a good spot to anchor given that there were already dozens of other boats here that we had to avoid in the dark.  Dropped the hook, set it into the sand and hit our bunks with exhaustion.  Back up at 0800 for coffee, and boat clean up, then headed into town for a look around. The community here is very poor by North American standards, but the people are so nice!  We had a delicious lunch at Hotel Veracruz (top of the hill-used to be the whore house, but Diane who’s been here before, wanted me to assure everyone it is now a respectable establishment) and then back to the boat for a much anticipated treat; spending the afternoon in the hammock (in Ann’s case, it was lounging on the spinnaker up on the bowsprit and Diane was laid out on the foredeck reading a book and soaking up the sun). Then we took a sun-shower at around 1600 and cocktails at 1730.  Of course I made our patented drink, “The Charisma”.  One of those and you’ll think everyone loves you. We’re now all very happy.

(From the “Command Module” on Charisma, anchored at Bahia Tortuga.  This photo refuses to rotate, so apologies for forcing you to turn your head sideways to view.)

For those following Geoff and Jansen, they spent the day ashore catching up with friends, came back to the boat and made fish tacos from our tuna of yesterday, jumped in the water for a swim and then left for a night of who knows what.  (well maybe not so much of “what” since they both still smell like dead tuna!)

Blood was dripping down the porthole by my cabin while I was on the morning radio net trying to give our position report.  My only option was to run into the cabin and get the book.  I rushed topside with it and handed it to Diane who rapidly read it to Geoff, who was wielding the knife with wild abandon in his eyes. Diane: “First you cut a ‘vee’ into its head exposing the brain”  Yep, we caught a fish and once we had it aboard all we could say was; “whoa, now what?”

So fast forward to sunset.  (caution; run-on sentence ahead!)  Ann and Diane are up on the bowsprit reading, everyone’s in shorts and tees, the spinnaker is pulling us along at 4 knots, sun’s shining, the dolphins have been dancing past the boat, there’s not a cloud in the sky, fresh sushi for lunch and now Geoff and Jansen are blackening peppers and searing fresh Yellowfin Tuna for fish taco dinner, while I’m sitting here writing email while sailing essentially in the middle of nowhere.  Yup, we’re all getting used to this.

The aforementioned former tuna blessed us with his presence just minutes after sunrise.  Geoff and Jansen were on watch and put the line out as the sun came up and were just taking a few pictures when the reel started screaming out.  All hands were alerted; “Fish on!”  After about 15 minutes of fight, Geoff brought it alongside and I gaffed it aboard.  What a gorgeous fish!  About 30 inches and 30ish pounds.  A hectic start to the day since I was just getting ready for the morning radio call and Diane and Ann were just waking up to go on watch.  This event got everyone going.  Soon coffee was made, breakfast was ready and the day was starting out to be a real Baja Day.  Finally.

(An aside: I just got handed a salt-rimmed glass with Tecate, a salted rim and fresh squeezed lime.  My main problem now is not spilling it into the computer as the boat rolls while I’m typing this blog).

Last evening’s ride was pretty lively.  10 foot seas and 20 knot gusting to 25 knot wind. There was some carnage in the fleet, but we reefed down and had a fairly uneventful, if exciting ride.  As to the fleet; one boat lost its mainsail and gooseneck, several others had some damage and put in to San Quintin for repairs and unfortunately one crew on one of the boats suffered a dislocated hip (fortunately there was an EMT on another boat who lent help and when we last heard had stabilized the individual.  They are heading to Bahia Tortuga for assistance).

The quote of the day heard over the Net this morning between the Net manager, “Profligate” and one of the boats in the fleet, “Mosuli” who ran over a 10 foot long dead shark.

Mosuli:  “Last night we T-Boned a dead shark”
Profligate:  “Oh my goodness, what kind of shark was it”
Mosuli:  “I don’t know. It was a dead one.  They all look alike when they’re dead”

I’ll leave you with that thought as we’re 20 miles from the finish of the first leg and the tacos are ready.