Position: 09 degrees, 45 minutes South; 138 degrees, 52 minutes West

Sail repair!

Landfall at PuaMau

Sailing along the coast of Hiva Oa

Before we tell you just HOW pleased we are with ourselves, I’ll tell about how cruising isn’t all fun and games. Yesterday when we were folding the main as we got ready to anchor in Hanamenu Baie, we noticed what looked like a tear in the sail. Turned out a seam broke. Right above the second reef, about 10 inches of thread came out and the seam was threatening to split wide open. Sooo…Our job first thing this morning (well, right after coffee and bananas-more on that later) was to sew the seam back together. This had to be done by hand as taking the sail off the boom to use the sewing machine would have been a bigger undertaking than it was worth. So, Ann with needle and palm (look it up) and me with pliers to pull the needle through the layers of sailcloth took about an hour to sew the split 10 inch seam. There were three lines of stitching in this seam. But worth the effort as the seam looked great the next time we put up the main. Once done with that we hauled anchor. As we were in 40 feet of water, I had 200 feet of chain out. Not a walk in the park to lift 200 feet of chain followed by a 40 lb CQR anchor, all with a manual winch. Add to that the fact that we had to anchor twice yesterday and again today in 35 feet makes today a three aspirin day. Yesterday we dropped 150 feet the first time and as we were backing down to set the anchor I could hear the anchor (through the chain) just “skidder” along on top on solid rock. No way it was setting. Sounded like it was just dragging down an asphalt road and Charisma just kept backing and backing. No hold. So, up anchor (ugh) and back around for another shot. We went a little farther out this time and dropped. Sand. Yay! The only downside, now we were in 40 feet. More scope, more chain. Oh well. Welcome to the tropics. I think all our anchorages are going to be this deep. So….we left Hanamenu. Beautiful day. Squalls all gone. Only problem; very little wind. We spent the whole day to get 9 miles up the coast. Hard work sailing in sloppy seas and only 4-6 knots of wind, but there’s not a lot of diesel available out here and we don’t want to rely on the engine in any case. After leaving Hanamenu at around 1000, we arrived 9 miles later at Baie Puamau at around 1600. We dropped anchor in about 35 feet and hit sand, so good solid hold. BUT, nothing’s easy; there’s some big rollers coming in here and the wind is contrary so we were lying crosswise to the swell. Rats! We have to put out a stern anchor to keep us lined up to the swell so we won’t rock gunwale to gunwale all night. We got ready to launch the dinghy. Ann got the pump out to top off the air while I got the stern anchor ready. While I was sorting out the chain and anchor rode Ann came back; “Bob, come up and listen to this. There’s a funny noise I can’t figure out”. So, up to the foredeck. Ann pumped, I listened. Leak! Fortunately only in the tube that is the keel, so not critical. We have a patch kit and we’ll work on it tomorrow. But, frustration number two for today (not counting the light wind).

We launched the dinghy so I could row out with the stern anchor and drop it 100 feet or so beyond the stern, but before I get in the dinghy, I go to turn off the engine. I press the solenoid stop button and…nothing. The engine keeps singing away. I can hear the solenoid “click” but no stoppage. Rats! That’s number three. I’m getting really pissed off right now. The engine won’t turn off, the boat is rolling like crazy because it’s sideways to the swell and I’m in a dinghy that’s partially deflated trying to take a 30 lb anchor and 20 feet of chain 100 feet behind the boat. Got the anchor thing done (with Ann’s help; thanks Ann, rowed back, tied the dinghy to the side of Charisma and stomped down below to try and figure out how to turn off a rogue diesel engine. I only know theoretically what a solenoid is and how it works. Never seen one. I grabbed my engine manual and looked it up: “Hmmm, ‘Optional Remote Engine Stop’. OK, there’s the picture. It’s connected to the fuel pump. Where the hell is the fuel injector pump!!?? No, no, I know where that is. OK, got to take off the engine cover -which is under the stairs, lift the stairs and take off two more parts to the engine box. Now there it is, banging away with a menacing looking flywheel and fan belt right in front threatening to grab me if I come too close. So, I know the solenoid thingy is on the left side facing aft. First things first though; I’ve got a swimming suit on with a biiigg string tying the front. Tuck that inside and turn the hem over. Don’t want that to get caught in an alternator belt doing 3000 RPM. Then, flashlight in hand, I look around the left side near the fuel injector pump. Ahhhh, that thingy looks like a solenoid. Yes, and in fact, there’s nothing there where the pushrod should be. OK, where WAS it connected. Ah, there’s the fuel injector pump and the solenoid thingy pushrod is hanging from it. OK, what it I pull that? Ahhhhh….blessed peace. The engine is off. And another project is waiting for us to work on tomorrow ’cause I’m not leaning over a hot engine in a hot boat on a hot day today! OK, all done. Time to chill. Grab a beer, go up in the cockpit. Remind ourselves we’re in paradise. What the hell, we’ll fix it all tomorrow (how do you say; “manana in French”?) Which leads us to where we are and why we’re pleased. First off, we’re in Baie Puamau. This is the most beautiful spot yet. The bay is about ½ mile wide and the jungle covered mountains rise vertically to spectacular jagged, volcanic heights directly from the water. It’s also the location of the most extensive archeological sites on the island. As long as the weather holds, we’ll go ashore tomorrow and explore, in particular looking for petroglyphs, various statues and the largest stone Tiki in the world. The other reasons are: 1. Ann made her spectacular pressure cooker bread, so we just finished scarfing warm bread with melted butter. Yum 2. Bob made his first curry dish. Using last night’s ratatouille with some more garlic, pepper and curry powder, he combined the above with a can of chicken, some leftover rice and some of Ann’s homemade yogurt. It was Yummy! OK, time to head out and watch the stars. Oh yeah, the bananas. We have a ton of them. We got half a stock given to us at Atuona and now they are all coming ripe at once (about 35 of them!) They have been hanging in the cockpit, but it’s too hot, and they are getting too ripe. Today, I cut them off the stock and we’ve been filling the freezer, fridge and ice box with them. Last light we made banana slices with Nutella, crushed peanuts and a cherry on top, just as a way to get rid of some of the bananas!