This post is a little out of sequence. About a week ago we rented a car and did a “land tour” north of here to the north tip of New Zealand-Cape Reinga. It’s about a three hour drive through lovely, unspoiled almost uninhabited country. Here’s a few shots from the trip.
It's like this most of the way.
At the beginning of what's called "90 Mile Beach".
Part of the cape on the Tasman side facing Australia.
At the lighthouse on the tip of the cape.
Stunning view from the tip of New Zealand
This spot is just gorgeous! We’ve anchored at two islands so far and due to weather (south winds), we’ll stay here until Monday when we’ll start to head down the coast.
We had an amazing 6 mile hike yesterday around Urupukapuka Island (also known as Baker Island) where we are now anchored in aptly named Paradise Bay. At the end of the day, I went fishing in the dinghy and while I didn’t catch anything, a pod of huge bottlenose dolphins came over to say “hi”. They jumped and danced and even swam under the dinghy. Then Ann went out in her kayak and played with them. Yay!
Looking northeast to the Pacific Ocean.
Someone likes this hike.
A really stunning day.
Ending the day with dolphins.
Our private anchorage, the site of Captain Cook's anchorage.
Today we pulled ourselves away from Opua and have ventured out to the Bay of Islands. It is fun to be at the dock in Opua and watch the new boats arriving but it can be addicting and keep you from cruising New Zealand! That’s what happened last year and by the time we left the dock it was time to head to Whangarei and get Charisma taken care of before returning home for the holidays.
We promised not to do it the same way this year. And we have been keeping that promise by getting out and hiking around Opua. New Zealand does hiking extremely well.
Last weekend we rented a car and drove up to see the northern tip of New Zealand, Cape Reinga. It was a beautiful three hour trip culminating in a spectacular view. The Tasman Sea meeting the Pacific Ocean. You could see where the wave patterns from the two big bodies of water came together. It looks so diffent from a cliff looking down. It looked so peaceful, not as wild as it did when we were on the water getting buffeted by 35 knot winds and 10-12 foot waves while trying to get into the protection of the land mass.
After stopping at “The World’s Best Ice Cream” store for a treat we headed to Whangarei to help get Orcinius back in the water.
Ice Cream break!
Orcinius was hauled out eleven months earlier and structural issues were discovered. It was painful leaving for Fiji without Orcinius. So when John agreed to our offer to help get her back in the water after months of rebuilding we were thrilled! John sums the weekend best in his blog so I will leave it at that and encourage you all to follow the link at the bottom of the page to their blog. The good news is that it was a huge success! (and John, you do not owe us the additional car rental money!).
Orcinius in her parking spot "on the hard".
A trailer gets jacked up underneath her to roll her down to the ramp.
After 11 months, she's happy under sail again and better than new.
And now tonight we are sitting in our first anchorage in the Bay of Islands, Roberton Island (the site of Captain Cook’s anchorage). When we first dropped anchor (yes, we remember how!) there were two other boats here. One was on their private mooring and the other anchored. Inside of two hours there were seven other boats! They ranged from small fishing boats to catamarans to large house boats. The house boat pulled in and dumped eight yellow kayaks of people to go ashore. they looked like a fleet of rubber ducks! Wow, is this what cruising in New Zealand is like? Fortunately this must be a great day spot because as we sit here sipping Charismas in the setting sun only the boat on the private mooring remains. Yay! A private anchorage…this is cruising New Zealand!
Oh, and Bob deployed his hammock for the first time this season while I pumped up my kayak and paddled ashore.
Bob has finally deployed his hammock!
From Bob: Such a nice nap I had in my lovely hammock on such a warm day!
We had a great hike today with our friends from Blue Rodeo and Evergreen. From Opua we took a short ferry ride across the channel, then a six mile hike through some lovely country to Russell. Lunch and some goofin’, then a different ferry from Russell to Pahia. Another 4 miles hike along the water back to Opua. Whew! Long day. Left at 0900-back at 1800.
John, Mark, Anne, Ann and Heather on the Ferry across the channel.
Leg One: The path to Russell.
The path along the water from Pahia back to Opua.
View toward Opua.
We’re catching up on sleep now and finished cleaning up Charisma today. The usual after passage work-do four loads of laundry, clean the foul weather gear before tucking it away and put away all the crap that ends up thrown on the floor in the cabin during a passage. Plus…put away storm sails and sheets, properly folded sails and covered them, and, Bob’s favorite…repack the V-berth that was pulled apart for customs questions.
Ann also dragged the Sailrite sewing machine over to Cornelia to help Mark sew a tear in his mainsail. Saved him at least a few hundred bucks on sail repair. Should be worth a beer or two, eh Mark?
We also got a chance to catch up with our friends on Blue Rodeo and Evergreen who got in from New Caledonia yesterday. Haven’t seen them since June. And we’re looking forward to seeing others (Bright Angel on Friday) who will straggle in as the week goes by.
We’ll be here in Opua until a week from Monday, then we’re going to do some New Zealand cruising. Bay of Islands (it’s crab season and we’ll hope to catch a few), then down the coast toward Whangarei and if the weather cooperates, we’ll go out to Barrier Island for a few days before coming back in to Marsden and Whangarei where we’ll base Charisma during the Cyclone season (now until May).
We’ll go back to the Bay Area December/January to catch up with family and friends, then boat work and touring the South Island in Feb, March, April.
So…keep checking in. There’s more coming up between now and December 9th when we’ll fly home. Hopefully we’ll get a few pictures posted, but tomorrow, we’re taking the ferry across the bay and then a six mile hike through a nature reserve to the town of Russell. Lunch in Russell, ferry back to Pahia and then either walk (probably not) or take a taxi back to Charisma and collapse, er, MAKE, dinner.
Whew, we’re in!
The last 24 hours the weather abated to a leisurely 20-25 knots. We got the sails back up and close reached into Bay of Islands having sailed all the way. We didn’t even turn the engine on for the entire (1200 mile) trip being able to keep the batteries charged with the solar panels and hydro-gen that we towed.
Wow! What a great experience
Both of us agreed that the trip ended on a great note with beautiful sailing and gorgeous starry night followed by an almost ethereal arrival in the early morning fog-shrouded bay. Just when we thought it was going to be a radar guided entry, the fog thinned from the morning sun just enough to see a hundred yards ahead and we ghosted into the customs dock.
Making landfall at Bay of Islands early dawn.
Sunrise over Bay of Islands just a couple hours before completing this voyage.
Out of the fog and into Opua.
Heading toward the "Q-Dock" or quarantine dock where we'll wait to get cleared by customs and immigration
Happy to be back in New Zealand.
Oh, yeah, that Champagne tasted good!
We’re now in a nice slip, showered and we’re going out for dinner before collapsing into bed.
More tomorrow.
Got up at 0630. Out the marina, coffee and granola bar in hand heading 6 miles away, for Vuda Point to check out. Success. Got in before anyone else and out by 1100 at which point there were four other boats in line waiting to get into the dock which only fits one at a time. The early entry paid off! Then headed south 18 miles to Momi Bay where where we’re anchored in 17 feet, just inside the barrier reef. Outside, the ocean awaits.
Charisma at Vuda Point waiting for Customs clearance.
Good bye Fiji!
Momi Bay at sunset
Now after Charismas and a nice steak dinner we’re just hanging, waiting for tomorrow when we sail through the reef (planning for 0800 departure)for 1200 miles to New Zealand. We’re planning 10 days, but there are some headwinds in the forecast for the later 1/3 of the trip, so who knows-but that’s kinda part of the adventure-not knowing exactly when…
We’ll post our progress each evening, so please join us. We’re looking forward to your thoughts and comments to keep us company along the way.
(This one’s for my Dad who is a retired policeman)
We went for a walk today and on the way back ran into these two nice Fijian policemen. Thought I’d include a photo since it’s not everywhere you see policemen wearing dresses. OK, the “dress” is called a sulu.
Fijian policemen. No, I'm not handcuffed, just holding my shopping bag behind my back so it wouldn't ruin the picture.
By Ann…
The predicted rains are here. Not really heavy rains, just consistent rain. We woke up thinking we would go visit the Hindu Temple in Nadi, but the rains changed our plans.
Taking advantage of the rains, Bob spent the morning enjoying The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London and I found ways to stay busy. I busied myself cleaning various areas on the boat that tend to collect stuff. You know, like THAT drawer in your kitchen.
I also I made a triple batch of hummus as garbanzo beans will be taken as we check into New Zealand. I figure if they are hummus we will get to keep them. I can’t believe I can make hummus from garbanzo beans without a blender. But it sure tastes good!
Just as I finished the hummus Bob announced that the rain had let up. So we took advantage of the break and took the bus into Nadi ($1.15 Fijian, which is about $0.70 US) to see the Sri Siva Subramaniya temple. It is the largest Hindu Temple in the South Pacific. Per our guide book it is “the only thing worth seeing in Nadi”. So we went.
Entering the temple
The guide said they paint it every 12 years. Must be a huge job!
Part of the ceiling inside. The pictures depict stories of the Hindu faith.
We took the Bula Bus and then walked through Nadi to the temple. It was visible about three blocks away because of the brilliant colors. But get up close and those pretty colors are on a plywood board. It was like approaching a country fair. So one dimensional. Luckily that was the outside border.
The temple itself has vibrant paintings all over the ceilings and walls and multiple altars to a variety of beings that just confused me. We removed our shoes, wore a sulu, coved our shoulders, took the tour and left somewhat confused. We know nothing about Hindu religious beliefs and our tour guide was not very good at explaining it so we just enjoyed the colors. And now we can say we saw it.
We had a nice time wandering the streets of downtown Nadi and stopped for fresh tomatoes at the market and came back to Charisma. Yep, we saw Nadi.
Now we can catch that Monday or Tuesday window to New Zealand! Weather permitting….
PS – yes, I went up the mast yesterday. I saw nothing to make us nervous and was able to oil the shims coming into the mast. Not a beautiful day but there was a nice breeze and a view of Port Denarau.
Ann's buddy on the boat next door.
View of Port Denarau.
It's a loooonnggg way down.
I wish all boat problems were this straightforward.
The raw water intake problem was a blockage. I opened the strainer (empty the lazarette of sundry stuff, climb in, close the seacock, unscrew strainer, all while sweating a lot in the cramped, hot quarters) this morning and found…a box fish! Yup, the poor little guy got too close to the intake and got sucked in. That must have been the little “burp” I swear I heard the engine make right before the cooling water stopped coming out of the exhaust. There are a bunch of them swimming around the dock, so we’ll have to keep our guard up. This is why you never leave the boat with the engine running. Five minutes or less and the engine would have been cooked if I hadn’t heard the “dry” exhaust sound and shut down the engine!
A box fish by the way looks like a box with a tail on it. Unlikely looking thing.
Anyway, on with the waiting. I think we’re going to send Ann up the mast later this morning to have a look at the rig. We have the time and she’s getting bored, so why not?