We made landfall today around noon. Definitely not the most graceful entry we’ve made into a new spot. In fact, it was downright ungraceful, but we’re very tired and need to get some sleep. More tomorrow.
Position: 18 degrees, 29 minutes south; 158 minutes, 34 degrees west (125 mile day)
We expect landfall tomorrow morning IF the wind holds which is questionable. It’s gone light now so whereas all the bouncing around the last couple days was from the wind and big waves, now it’s because of the light wind. Today was a gorgeous day. The wind dropped to 14 knots and the waves down to 2 meters. We put the main up and set the jib out on the pole and ran wing and wing all day. It was the kind of day that is why we love cruising. The wind has dropped to about 6 knots now so we are eking out about 3-4 knots boatspeed. We have to get to Aitutaki by noon because that is high tide so if the wind completely drops out we’ll have to motor-sail.
Not too much else to update. Dinner was Mahi II. I sautéed some veggies that were about to go bad (an eggplant and a bell pepper) with an onion, threw it in leftover rice and seared the mahi on the cast iron pan with some spices. Yum. Also, we had the ceviche on crackers for lunch. Can you eat too much fish? I don’t think so….
That’s about it for today. Stay tuned for our update of our attempt at the pass at Aitutaki.
P.S. To JHam: Jerry-we do swab the deck, but with a brush. There’s no room on board for a swab although I used to swab the decks on a schooner I crewed on when I was in my teens. Ann swabbed, er, brushed the deck after we caught the Mahi. Fish scales everywhere although I’m getting much better about not spraying blood all over the place. In fact, these days, there’s very little blood when I gut and fillet the fish just lots of swearing as the boat rolls and I have to hang on to fish, knife and self. At least I no longer have to change my clothes and take a shower (bucket bath) after catching a fish. 🙂 You should have seen some of the early attempts. Psycho!
Position: 17 degrees, 48 minutes south; 156 degrees, 31 minutes west (138 mile day)
Short post as it’s rockin’ and rollin’ and very hard to type.
We caught a Mahi just after lunch today, so we had fresh Mahi Mahi, rice and salad for dinner. (yay!) It was delicious. The fish also provided 5 additional dinners for two, 1/2 pound of ceviche that I made this afternoon and a pound of extra bits for chowder. Yum.
More blue water and blue skies with some clouds along with 10 foot seas and 15-20 knot winds. A good day, but we’re almost straight downwind which makes it rolly in these big waves. Wilson is doing an amazing job steering. We have only tweaked it when we reef the jib in or out-which is once or twice a day-and after three days, it’s steering us within five miles of the rhumb line course.
It’s beautiful out here even at night when the full moon is illuminating everything.
OK, time for bed. It’s Ann’s watch from 1000 to 0200.
By the way; to our family who are now in Aptos on vacation-Ann made ginger cookies for you all, but we can’t figure how to deliver them, so we’ll have to eat them. Sorry, she’ll make more later.
Position: 17 degrees, 08 minutes south; 154 degrees, 04 minutes west (about 130 miles last 24 hours) Sailing this afternoon, watching wave after wave after wave and nothing but blue water as far as I could see, I was struck by how “out there” we really are. We just left a small island, for an even smaller island some 500 miles away where the only entrance into the lagoon is narrow and shallow-maybe too shallow for us to fit. Just thinking.
I’m finally over my almost mal de mer. I didn’t feel very good for most of the first 18 hours of the trip. First touch of seasickness I’ve had in years. But got my sea legs back now.
Yesterday evening a potentially ominous issue came up. Just before sundown I glanced at the solar panel readout and it was dead. Not working. No light. Uh oh! Solar is one of our major sources of energy and it would be very bad if they panels quit working. It was too rough and I didn’t feel good enough to start rooting around in the electronics closet so I decided I’d put off looking at it until morning. Once the sun came up, I consulted the manuals and they said that; “a spike in power can cause the microprocessor to turn off. Disconnect all power and then reconnect, crisply”. Crisply??! Oh well, worth a shot. There is a fuse in the battery compartment under the bed in the quarterberth that delivers the solar power to the battery. I figured I could check it in case that was the problem and at the same time disconnect and reconnect it “crisply” and see if that would work. OK, found it, pulled it, it broke. Now I have to get the pieces of the fuse out of the inline holder (while still feeling a bit poorly inside the rolling boat). I dug them out-even had an extra fuse holder but didn’t feel like dealing with it so used the existing one for now. Found an appropriate fuse, inserted it crisply and voila! The panels came back online. Yay.
The rest of today has been pretty typical passage-making. Eat, sleep, read, enjoy the view. The evening radio nets start in an hour so we’ll be able to see where our various friends are and maybe talk with them. Last night Dave from Camanoe (our friend from Mexico who went to Hawaii when we left for the Marquesas) was on and called us when the net controller asked if there was any “traffic” for Charisma. Alas, his signal was pretty light and we couldn’t find a frequency so just said; “Hi”. Maybe we’ll be able to have a longer conversation tonight. Since he’s still in Hawaii it’s a long way and the ionosphere has to be just right to bounce the signal all the way down here.
So, there you have it. About three days to go (hopefully) to our next island. Position: 17 degrees, 08 minutes south; 154 degrees, 04 minutes west (about 130 miles last 24 hours) Sailing this afternoon, watching wave after wave after wave and nothing but blue water as far as I could see, I was struck by how “out there” we really are. We just left a small island, for an even smaller island some 500 miles away where the only entrance into the lagoon is narrow and shallow-maybe too shallow for us to fit. Just thinking.
I’m finally over my almost mal de mer. I didn’t feel very good for most of the first 18 hours of the trip. First touch of seasickness I’ve had in years. But got my sea legs back now.
Yesterday evening a potentially ominous issue came up. Just before sundown I glanced at the solar panel readout and it was dead. Not working. No light. Uh oh! Solar is one of our major sources of energy and it would be very bad if they panels quit working. It was too rough and I didn’t feel good enough to start rooting around in the electronics closet so I decided I’d put off looking at it until morning. Once the sun came up, I consulted the manuals and they said that; “a spike in power can cause the microprocessor to turn off. Disconnect all power and then reconnect, crisply”. Crisply??! Oh well, worth a shot. There is a fuse in the battery compartment under the bed in the quarterberth that delivers the solar power to the battery. I figured I could check it in case that was the problem and at the same time disconnect and reconnect it “crisply” and see if that would work. OK, found it, pulled it, it broke. Now I have to get the pieces of the fuse out of the inline holder (while still feeling a bit poorly inside the rolling boat). I dug them out-even had an extra fuse holder but didn’t feel like dealing with it so used the existing one for now. Found an appropriate fuse, inserted it crisply and voila! The panels came back online. Yay.
The rest of today has been pretty typical passage-making. Eat, sleep, read, enjoy the view. The evening radio nets start in an hour so we’ll be able to see where our various friends are and maybe talk with them. Last night Dave from Camanoe (our friend from Mexico who went to Hawaii when we left for the Marquesas) was on and called us when the net controller asked if there was any “traffic” for Charisma. Alas, his signal was pretty light and we couldn’t find a frequency so just said; “Hi”. Maybe we’ll be able to have a longer conversation tonight. Since he’s still in Hawaii it’s a long way and the ionosphere has to be just right to bounce the signal all the way down here.
So, there you have it. About three days to go (hopefully) to our next island.
Position: 16 degrees, 37 minutes south; 152 degrees, 18 minutes west
Yup, we’re finally out of French Polynesia. I took the French flag and the Polynesian courtesy flags down today for the first time in three months. The next flags to go up will be the yellow “Q” flag and the Cook Islands flag as we enter the Cooks. Hopefully that will be in about 3.5 days at Aitutaki. I say ‘hopefully’ because it’s a tricky entrance. There’s a very narrow cut through the coral reef of something like 30 feet and the depth is approximately 6 feet. We draw 5 feet, 8 inches, so it will be close. Fortunately high tide is at 1200, so we’ll have the sun overhead to help us see the bottom. It’s a +0.68 meter tide so that will give a little extra room. Once inside though, the lagoon is very small, so if there are many boats there, we won’t have room to anchor. Lots of “ifs”. The last “if” is if we can’t get in, we’ll keep on going another couple hundred miles to our next stop at Palmerston Island.
It’s bumpy bouncy again, so this will be short as I don’t have my sea legs yet and it’s not easy to type and not get seasick, LOL.
This moonrise tonight was almost surreal. It was a full moon and came out of the clouds above Bora Bora. Just amazing. Breathtaking really. It was the biggest moon I’ve ever seen and it was red. Amazing. A great way to start another leg of the voyage.
It’s blowing about 16 gusting to 20, the seas are about 4 feet and we’re doing about 6 knots with just the jib rolled about 40%. The wind should increase some in the next day or so then ease as we approach our destination. We checked in on the Seafarers Net, which is a Pacific-wide Ham net dedicated to keeping track of boats who wish to be followed. Good safety net. If you google searfarers net, or possibly go to www.pacseanet.com you can find the report that shows where we are. I think there are two Charismas, so we go by Charisma San Francisco.
That’s it for now, I need some air. See you tomorrow.
Easy day today. We’re pretty sore and stiff from yesterday’s climb so decided not to leave today, but will go tomorrow. There’s a good weather window for the next day or two with modest winds, then they turn into 20+ knots and 3.5 meter seas, but all downwind and easing as we go west, so we’ll be heading into the better weather and leaving the stronger stuff here. About five other boats are heading out tomorrow as well. The folks who are staying here are going to get a strong blow.
So…we dinghied over to the store, and bought some supplies. Ann did some laundry and pre-made a pasta salad to have available for our trip and I uploaded pictures to the blog and Facebook and that’s about it for today. Had a nice time with ShantiAna and Bright Angel with cocktails on the deck outside Bora Bora YC, then dinner.
Slow, easy day, but our last day for a while in civilization. From here it’s nothing but very small islands for 800 or so miles then Tonga. I think the biggest one has a population of 200 and the small one has about 50 people. Should be interesting.

You get sort of a feeling for the steepness is you look at the trail on the right and follow it down toward the houses down below over to the left

A quick rest. We actually did the 700 plus meter climb in a little over three hours which boggles my mind. But there wasn't much hiking, it was mostly just up.
Way, way. above. Today we climbed the peaks above Bora Bora. Probably the steepest “hike” I’ve ever done. Actually it was a cross between a hike and a climb. There were some fixed ropes along the route it was so steep-there was some technical climbing involved- so also brought along our own rope and very glad we did. (Mt. Otemanu – 727 meters high).
We dinghied over and met Chris and Rani from Ladybug at 8AM in front of where they were moored-about a ten minute ride from our mooring at Bora Bora Yacht Club. Then a 15 minute walk down the road to town and once in town a left turn, past some houses/huts where folks live and soon we were in the jungle and going up. An up and up. When we didn’t have fixed ropes, we were using roots growing out of the trail to steady ourselves for the climb. It was amazingly steep. Looking at it from the ground, even after having done it I can’t see a route. The mountain just rises straight up from town to twin peaks about ½ mile apart at the top. We summited at 1130 and were greated with a view of…the clouds. Yep, we were solidly in the clouds we had gone so high. It was clear and beautiful on the ground and solid white on the top. But the clouds cleared momentarily for some quick shots down at the reefs below so we got a few pictures as well as shots of us on the summit. There’s a flag, so we can prove we’ve been there. And since Ann had carried the hand held radio in her back pack we took the time to announce our accomplishment to a few of our friends. Unfortunately several that we called were away from the boat but surprisingly, Orcinius – who was just leaving Maupiti (an island 25 miles away) heard us loud and clear!
The route up with scary at times, the route back down bordered on harrowing since it started raining and got very, very slippery. This is where we fixed our rope to help us down the worst parts. Chris is very agile and light so he would clean the rope after we all went down.
Once back on solid ground we stopped in a couple stores for supplies. I was in the marine store when one of the clerks asked me how I got so muddy? I told him we had climbed the mountain. He was incredulous. “With a guide of course?” said he. “No, ourselves” was our reply. Turned out he had never done it but had heard how difficult it was/is. One of the other clerks had climbed it and he was suspicious. “There is a flag on top…” he started. “Yes, with the words, ‘Bora Bora’ on the top and bottom”, I replied. “Ahhhh”, he beamed as then he knew we had joined the club and weren’t just claiming to have climbed and not made it.
So, that was our day. We’re exhausted, our feet hurt but our souls are happy. We had dinner at Bora Bora YC after watching the sunset from our favorite perch on the deck looking across the lagoon to the reef and sunset beyond.
Another day, another adventure.
Tomorrow we will probably leave here and start our next leg to Palmerston island, some 500 miles and maybe as many days further west. We’ll see though. The weather is changing right now and we might be just as happy to sit here for a while longer. Not a bad place in which to have to hang out.

Our Berkeley Yacht Club burgee is now hanging in the Bora Bora Yacht Club (all the old ones blew away in a hurricane so they are looking for new ones and gave us a free Bora Bora burgee in return)
We relocated back North from where we were anchored and are now moored in front of the Bora Bora Yacht Club. Got some swag already as well. Turns out their roof blew off in a hurricane so they lost all their world yacht club flags and are giving free Bora Bora Yacht Club flags in exchange for ours. We “donated” our Berkeley YC flag and now have a lovely Bora Bora one to fly.
This place is truly amazing and beautiful. The architecture is very simple. Just some tall thatched roof huts for the bar, and dinning room and an expansive deck that leads seamlessly to a deep water dock where you can bring your boat to get water or supplies.
We sat on the dock and had Mai Tai’s watching the sun set over the water and a distant motu and reef off Bora Bora. I can’t even describe how lovely, picturesque (we forgot the camera though, so this description will have to do for now) and peaceful it was looking out toward the sunset with a dozen sailboats moored in front of us.
This morning was fun. We were sitting in the cockpit having coffee when the folks from Ladybug came rowing over in their dinghy. We invited them aboard for a coffee and next thing we knew, Buena Vista also came by and we invited them on board as well. All six of us were enjoying some coffee and talking about how fun the Great Dinghy Raft was the night before when we heard Orcinius hauling up their anchor. They got it up and motored over by us where we could shout our good-byes while I blew my conch shell horn. They are leaving French Polynesia for the Cooks. Their first intended stop is Rarotonga. That’s where we’re hoping to go so we’ve arranged to talk each night on the shortwave at 0600 Z (that’s 2000 local Bora Bora time) on channel 8B (6227.0 MHz).
Tomorrow’s big event is going to be (drum roll please)….a hike to the top of the Bora Bora mountain. Look it up on Google-it’s steep. We’ll see how we do and report back.
See you all after the climb, I mean hike!
We moved away from town and went “around the corner” to a most beautiful spot. It’s about 1/8 mile off the Hilton Hotel bungalows where people pay $500/night or more to experience paradise. Well, we are anchored in their backyard. The bungalows are out on the water and are very nice, but we’re right on the edge of the reef, so the water is stunningly clear and we have a view of the signature peaks of Bora Bora. All in all, a very nice spot. We spent much of the day snorkeling. First I dove the anchor. Then Buena Vista showed up so I stayed in the water to dive their anchor, then while I was waiting for them to back down on it, I saw what I thought was an octopus in a coral outcrop under their boat. I was going to dive and poke it, but thought I’d wait until they shut off their engine. Good thing. The “octopus” was actually a large (4-5′) Moray eel who was jealously guarding his domain. Don (Buena Vista) and I dove it later on and the eel would come out and chase us away.
After a break for lunch we went back in the water and swam all around the reef by the boats. After an hour of that, Don and Deb from Buena Vista got their dinghy and the four of us went ½ mile to another spot and snorkeled some more. I can honestly say; “I’m pooped” after spending upwards of a couple hours in the water.
Cocktails tonight should be fun. There’s about four boats here, all of whom are friends and we were thinking how are we gonna get all these people together on one boat for sunset cocktails. My solution? A dinghy raft. We’re all going to make our cocktails (Charismas for us of course), then get in our dinghies and drift about 20 yards back behind our boat into six feet of water near the reef, throw out an anchor or two and raft up to watch the sunset. Should be unique!
OK, so now it’s 2200 and we’re doing dishes from dinner (well, Ann’s actually doing them, I’m writing). The dinghy extravaganza was a big hit. We had four dinghies attending: Buena Vista, Sockdolager, Orcinius and Charisma. Each couple brought their own drinks and a snack. We were anchored in the middle of the Pacific Ocean having a cocktail while rafted together. OK, so we were inside the barrier reef of an island in the middle of the Pacific. It was still way cool. The sun set and the moon came out and the eight of us sat in our little rubber boats. In Paradise. We saw a couple manta rays jump. We could see the sandy bottom. We had our cocktails. Everyone said it was the most unique cocktail experience they had ever had and wanted to do it again.
Left Raiatea this morning. Took the inside passage up inside the reef all the way North through Tahaa doing 6 knots under sail in 15-20 knots wind. Beautiful sail. Went through the pass on the NW side into the ocean and did the 14 or so mile passage to Bora Bora. We are now moored inside the reef at Bora Bora. We had a wonderful evening starting with happy hour cocktails with friends we’ve met along the way including Mike and Barbara from Astarte, Craig and Bruce from Gato Go, Bruce and Marcellle from Adventure Bound and Robbie and Bev from Mersoliel and then Ann and I had a great dinner at the Mai Kai. Charisma is moored all of 100 feet from the restaurant’s dock. Nice. We finished the evening with after dinner drinks at Gato Go with Craig and Bruce who are moored right behind us.
We’re looking forward to the promised let up of wind tomorrow, but in any case, we’ll go ashore and do some exploring. It’s late, so that’s it for now.