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Would You Like To Join Us For A Hike? (by Ann)

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I found some new hiking friends! Several people from Dock Three (our new residence in La Paz) invited me to join them on a hike up the nearby hill to see the cross at the top and to get the best view of La Paz. “Of course I’ll come!” was my reply. So I pulled myself out of bed to meet two other couples at 0700! and they were 5 minutes early- these folks mean business.

So after 25 healthy, heart pounding minutes up the hill I was rewarded with early sunlight on La Paz. Just beautiful. And due to a rain a few weeks ago the cactuses had lots of new growth and the views into the hills inland were also stunning.

I’m looking forward to taking Bob up the hill ( he was recovering from a Mexican cold and his bout with the Turistas) with a thermos of hot coffee and breakfast rolls!

C'mon, it'll be fun. But watch out for the cactus

Morning sun rising as we move up the mountain

It's going to be a beautiful day

Made it!

Some of my new friends

And the view's fine (that's LaPaz on the left where we were anchored)

There's Marina Palmira (in the foreground) where we're staying right now

 

An Adventure Of Another Sort

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Mexican Barbershop.

I needed a haircut.  Before I left I asked my haircutter (Tara) whether she might show Ann how to cut my hair.  She (sagely) told me to “man up” and make getting a local haircut part of the adventure of the trip.  So, hair getting long-can’t put this off any longer.  Here are the results:

Took a while to find one, but once you're there, it's unmistakable; this is a barbershop all right.

OK, can't put this off any longer....

Do I look nervous yet?

"Use the #2 clipper and leave the ear..."

Success! I even got a lollipop!

Land Cruising

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OK, I’m doing this post up by the hotel pool where we found a good wi-fi connection.  I’m really just biding time waiting for a boat project I don’t want to work on to progress.  The holding tank vent is clogged.  That means I had to take everything out of the lazarette, climb down (pour myself) into it and disconnect one end of the hose to try and clear it (the “other” end is impossible to reach, buried underneath the engine).  So far, I’ve tried blowing it out with the dinghy pump-didn’t work.  I’m now progressing to a mild acid to try and dissolve the build up, which is why I’m now waiting-to see if it dissolves the clog.

OK, back to the story.  Land Cruising.  More specifically, a road trip in the “Baja Van” which is Richard and Cynthia’s 1970 something Dodge Van.  They bought it for $500 at a state auction.  OK, so it runs, that’s the main thing.  No legal seats, so check out the “crew” seating.  I was in the navigator’s seat and so thankfully had a seat belt.  Good thing Richard is a good driver.  We call him; “The Wheelman”

The objective?  Cabo Pulmo, a federally protected marine reserve.  The only living coral reef on the Pacific side of North American (or something like that).  We snorkled the South side when we did the death march across the desert from Los Frailes on our way up here to La Paz.  The other, supposedly better North side was a couple miles further on.  Farther than we wanted to travel on foot across the desert, but only a couple hours by van out of La Paz.  Well, three and a half hours it turned out, but a fun day.  Mostly good roads, a few small towns and the last 10 miles on a dirt road out to the shoreline.  Decent snorkeling, but there was some wave action so a bit on the cloudy side.  Here’s the pics:

The boys, ready for a road trip in the Baja Van

Ann got the lawn chair

Luxurious "cabin class" seating

Lovely Countryside

We stopped for a break and this kid was the only person minding the store. He took the money, made the change, etc. No one else in sight.

Our "ride"

The prize at the end of the ride. A dive and a lovely beach to hang out on...

...and a beer with our friends.

 

Thanksgiving Dinner

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Here’s a couple pictures of our group dinner.  Marina Palmira cooked Turkey for 250 people and we all brought potluck side dishes.  As you can see, the food was piled high.  Fun, but as it was around 1530, it was HOT.  We were all glad to retire after the dinner to our safety meeting at the end of the dock and cool off.

No expense was spared on table decorations...

Plates were piled high

Surrounded by friends...a good time!

Deanne (from S/V Dos Leos) and Queen Ann

Baja Bob and Cynthia (from S/V Tranquility)

 

 

Dinner at “The Shack”

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There’s a new “cool” place in town that for now is the hot, new cruiser’s hangout.  It’s called The Shack.  Run by an ex-pat American and his Mexican wife, they specialize in a kind of Burger/BBQ thing (Ann had a burger as you’ll see below and I had brisket that had been in the smoker for a day or two).  They serve a roast pig on Sundays.  Pretty informal as you’ll see by the pictures below.  Their two young kids are running around while Travis cooks and Rosa waits tables.  Marketing consists of Travis occasionally getting on the cruiser’s radio net in the morning (channel 22A at 0800) and announcing the pig roast or some other event.  The night we were there, one of the guys (“Keen”) from the boat ShantiAna was playing guitar for tips.  He wasn’t messing around either.  He was awesome!  We left him 50 pesos in the tip jar.  Sounds like a lot, but the exchange rater means a little less than five bucks.  As you’ll see in the picture below, we sat outside on the sidewalk by the curb where they set up a table for our group.  The curbside diners had to be careful how far they kicked back their chairs.  Too far and you’ll tip over and into the street.  After dinner, Ann got a big fat, black marker pen and signed our names and boat name to the wall for all eternity-or at least until next time they paint it.

The sidewalk seating (and for that matter the restaurant interior) brings up the subject of building codes.  There aren’t any that we can figure.  Ya build it and if it doesn’t fall down or burn down, you’re good to go seems to be the rule.  It’s so funny, yet practical how they deal with sidewalks for instance.  More specifically; what to do when the building or house ground levels change as you walk.  Need a smooth sidewalk?  Not a chance.  When there’s a change in elevation, which is almost every house or store, you just add a bunch of cement and make a platform to connect the sidewalk with the neighbor’s.  Too steep?  Add some steps.  Still too steep?  Get more cement and make the steps bigger.  You really have to watch where you’re going or you could easily and suddenly drop six feet off the pavement as you walk down the street.

There's Brisket in the forecast for tonight

Oh, yeah, them burgers are muy bien, y mas grande!

The kind of place where flip flops are the shoe of choice...

Our "reserved" seating

...kids, dogs, everyone's welcome at The Shack...

...and the music was great!

Bravo Mercado

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That would be the great market (Mercado) on Bravo street.  At least it’s supposedly on Bravo street.  We’re not completely sure as there are virtually no street signs in La Paz.  Once in a while you see one and use that as the basis for “counting” streets to find where you’re going.  “Cinco de Mayo street?  OK, found a sign; Bravo is five streets down and four up”  No signs between here and there.

Anyway, it’s a great market for fresh fish, meat, cheese and produce.  Really fun to walk through and see the very strange (to us) cuts of meat, all the different fish stacked up on ice and bargain with the produce guys.  There are usually at least three of each of the above, so it’s somewhat competitive, but in a friendly way.  In one corner of the Mercado (it’s all in an open barn-like structure), there are also a couple of eateries.  We had lunch in one the other day.  Quite an experience.  They don’t speak any English, so we use our best Spanglish and point a lot.  Everyone smiles at and appreciates our attempts to speak Spanish and we all have fun!  After we’re done, right outside is the Tortilleria for fresh, still warm tortillas.  Yum!

Also, while on the subject of being in town; if you have ever wondered where old school busses go, wonder no longer.  They are all in Mexico as you’ll see from the pictures below.  Old school busses are the main mode of public transportation down here.  Very cheap, very slow, but a cultural experience!


Old school busses never die, they go to Baja

...and they paint them pretty colors...

We moved on quickly after taking this picture...

The fish guys are in general more friendly...

...although the fish are not that happy (click to enlarge and see the fish's expression)

Baja Bob enjoyin' the view...

The tortilarilla right outside.

Yum! Those are "ours" coming right off the line....