This and That…

A few miscellaneous pictures to get caught up with life here in Mexico.

This guy (Javier) is a master weaver and makes beautiful carpets. We couldn't resist and bought one.

I love my machete! (gotta watch those fingers thought) It's great for opening coconuts

Refreshing! Coconut milk

One of the places we had breakfast where they were making salsa in their giant molcahete.

Fresh fish at the La Cruz fish market. Some big yellowfin tuna

This is the local fishing fleet. None of those big fishing boats for these guys. They get it done out of these 18-20 foot long pangas

A "sponsored" street sign

When your doggies need to go ashore and your partner has the dinghy. This is Tiffany from S/V Michaela

 

Road Trip with “Free Spirit” Dave (By Ann)

Okay, we admit it, we have been slacking. A week ago we took a spectacular road trip into the interior of Mexico with Dave from Free Spirit and have yet to blog about it! Maybe we are still speechless….

So our friend Dave from Free Spirit had rented a car and we were fortunate enough to be invited along on a road trip! Actually it went like this, “Hey Dave, we have time to play, are you interested?”  And Dave enthusiastically responded, “Absolutely! I have the car for one more day, where do you want to go?” We responded, “Inland, anywhere you have not been or would like to revisit”!  Dave immediately suggested San Sebastian, a 16th century mining town in the hills.  Great idea!

I would be very remiss if I did not inform you that we first stopped at the Pemex to get gas, where I used the restroom.  I am kind of on a mission to grade the Mexican restrooms, because often they can hardly be called that! Anyway, Pemex scored a 4.5 out of 5! Chevron take notice!  Clean, well-stocked, toilet seats (optional in Mexico), soap AND paper towels!  Nice start to the day!

Ends up we are driving into the country on the same road our errant bus trip from the prior day took us!  Only this time we also passed the prison and continued on past Ixtapa. We stopped for a lovely breakfast in an area that reminded all of us of the Sierra Foothills. Horse country.  In fact horses were roaming freely on the side of the road!

Part of our road trip included a stop at an artisanal tequila maker. It was a small,l family operation who were very proud of their product and it showed. It appeared that they farmed about 5-10 acres of blue agave. Their main tour guide had run into town for a moment so his cousins attempted a tequila tasting/tour with their broken English and our limited Spanish.  It was delightful and we felt like we got the whole story right before the real guide returned.  In addition to the tequila this farm also made Raicilla –the moonshine of Mexico – made only in the state of Jalisco. Yes, it tasted like white lightning – and this was the good stuff.  Apparently many locals make their own versions using recycled coke bottles for bottling!

 

Tequilla tasting room

Tasting with "Free Spirit" Dave

The tequilla still

The still

This is the place up the street from the artisinal tequilla place. These guys were selling their tequilla out of empty Coca-Cola bottles.

 

San Sebastian is a beautiful cobble-stoned town that could have been plucked from Italy and placed in Mexico.  With happy people, a beautiful town square, peaceful church… you get the picture! This alone would have made the trip worthwhile, but the real fun was just beginning.

 

Bob and Dave at San Sebastian

Doggie "guarding" his house

A fairly typical grocery store. This one was in San Sebastian.

The Church in San Sebastian

 

We should have known what to expect given the stories about remote caverns that Dave has found when wandering aimlessly in the Mexican countryside. But it was worth it.

We decided that we would drive up into the hills to the abandoned silver mine. Bob and I had both just finished reading James Michener’s Mexico (highly recommend this book) which takes place in Mexico around a silver mine. This was like a book come to life. Part way up the hill the trip changed to just getting to the very top of the hill, forget the mine, and over to the next valley. Mind you, we are in a rental car on VERY rough roads. I really thought we were going to bottom out.  I was in the back seat and Bob and Dave in the front.  Every time we hit a big bump Bob went, “Whooh” and tried to think light.  I can’t imagine what the bottom of this car looked like when Dave turned it in.  I decided that just in case we broke down up there, away from civilization where no one knew where we were, I would refrain from finishing my last half bottle of water and save my “Cliff Bar” for emergency rations.  I even was mentally divvying up the clean laundry in the trunk that we had picked up as we left La Cruz to use for blankets!

 

This might give you some idea of the road we were on.

 

Thankfully it was just a precaution. Our journey was indescribably beautiful.  We were probably 6000 feet into the Sierra Madres.  Wild cows/bulls were on the side of the road, unperturbed by our presence.  I am pretty certain they had not seen a car in many months. I say this because there were no tire tracks on the road.  Not even near the mud puddles that Dave so expertly sped through, while Bob closed his eyes!  We even saw signs for a jaguar conservation program.  Bob and Dave assured me that they were keeping their eyes peeled!  The was another bizarre sign for an animal that was a cross between an anteater and a small cat – who knows,but we didn’t see one.

The trip up and over the ridge, yes we made it to the top! – was spectacular.  The temperature must have dropped 15 degrees due to the altitude.   It was everything we had hoped to see with wonderful company! Thanks for driving Dave!

 

The view was worth it. The town we were in, is in the background

 

But to top it off, we stopped at the Mega to shop (hard to do from a boat so always appreciate a ride to the store) AND then Dave treated us to Gordo’s Tacos in Bucerias. I know that we have bragged about the tacos in Mexico many times, but I think this beats all. “ Al Pastor” – lamb off of the spit, 10 pesos each,  all of the usual salsas and a pineapple salsa too!  Yummy. As we attempted to communicate with the waitress her son- about 12 years old and daughter –about 13, helped translate.  When I explained that we gringos needed people to slow down when they speak the daughter v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y explained it to her mother.  Hysterical!  Perfect end to a fabulous day.

 

Chillin’ In La Cruz

We’re just chilling right now as we prepare for the jump to the South Seas in April. La Cruz is a wonderful spot. We’re anchored about a hundred yards off the beach. Weather’s great and there are lots of other cruisers to socialize with. Great music every night in town (really not more than a village) and delicious, inexpensive food including a fresh fish market and twice per week farmer’s market. We’re thinking about going across the bay to Yelapa tomorrow, weather permitting. The town is only accessible by boat or horse and there’s a hike to a couple of waterfalls that looks like fun.

View from where we are anchored at La Cruz

Another view

A view of our anchorage from the beach.

This morning I took the bus into Nuevo Vallarta to take the Ham radio exam. Success! I am now legal in the Technician class. Not too useful, but the necessary step to the Genereal license which I will take in a couple weeks.

On Wednesday, there’s a “Puddle Jump” seminar on “Surviving A Whale Strike” followed by a Lat 38 party. Both at are at Vallarta Yacht Club, so more crazy bus rides in our future, since it costs about $1.50 for the bus versus $18 for a cab (each way). Part of the adventure of the bus is that you take two to get there. Coming back, you get off the first one, then have to run across the freeway (no crosswalk or overpass, just dodge the cars that going 60) to get the other one. No real stop, just read the hand lettering painted on the front windshield and if it’s going the right way, hold up your hand. Even though it’s on the freeway, it will stop for you.

That’s all from La Cruz, Banderas Bay

The Green Flash and a Thunderstorm

Just catching up here:

Back in Chacala, sitting in our hammocks at sunset, we saw our first green flash of the trip. It was very bright green and distinct. Hopefully the first of many more now that we’re firmly in tropical latitudes.

In Jaltemba, we were anchored right off the beach in just 12 feet of water for our last night there when we had the dubious experience of a thunderstorm about midnight.

Everything looked calm and nice when we went to sleep, but a strong gust through the cabin around 2300 announced that all that had changed. I was just starting to wonder what had woke me up when I saw the first flash of lightning. I got up fast and looked out. Ah oh! Our previously safe anchorage had turned into a lee shore and wind and waves were building. We got into our life jackets and prepared for the worst, lashing down what we could and checking to make sure no lines were in the water to foul in the prop should we have to quickly depart. I also set a waypoint on the radar (the GPS is way off here) that would get us out safely past a small island that’s about a mile away, in case visibility dropped from rain squalls. Now it started raining pretty hard and we could see lightning bolts hitting the water just to the Northwest. But we sat tight and fortunately this storm passes mostly north of us, heading Eastward in over the land. I stayed up until about 0300 just to make sure it was over and past, then went back to bed.

A tropical storm. Another reminder that we are in the tropics. This one was a good reminder that we should (and have) put together a checklist for when a storm hits at anchor to make sure that when in a sleepy haze, we don’t forget something important.

In La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

We got in two days ago and are anchored just off the town. This is really a cool place. Small, very old world kind of town (read somewhat broken down, but quaint with stone streets) with really friendly people. Last night we had a fantastic dinner ashore with Dave and Stephanie from Camanoe. Also live music. Mostly Mexican and Bolivian, i.e. Conga drums, pan flute mandolin with a great beat that got us all up and dancing.

It’s also the kind of place where we had to take a bus to the next town to find a bank where we could get money from the ATM, since it’s a cash only world here. We actually walked an hour down the beach to the town, then took the bus back.

We have spent most of today at the most fantastic crafts fair that happens every Sunday on the breakwater at the marina. Food, entertainment and really excellent artisan quality craftworks. Lots of fun.

Rainy Day

There’s a storm a bit South of us that we’re on the edge of.  It rained all last night and it’s been raining on and off (mostly on) all day so far.  So, instead of hiking and exploring, it’s boat project day (except for right now where we came to a beach cafe for lunch and wi-fi).  Ann made cookie dough and pressure cooker bread for dinner and I installed two of the fans we brought.  Since we’re getting into the tropics, it’s quite humid now and the fans are a bit of a relief.

One last tidbit: We now have a new ingredient to the “Charisma”, our boat cocktail (rum, fruit juice and such).  It’s fresh coconut milk.  We’re now finding coconuts on the beach when we go walking and since Ann got me a machete for Chistmas, we have the capability for opening them.  So last night I opened the first one.  It was easy AND made a great new addition to the cocktail.  Like our burgee says; “Time flies when you’re having rum”!  OK, getting windy now on the beach.  Looks like a new squall coming through.  Heading back to the boat.

Chacala

We got in to Chacala yesterday afternoon and took these pictures right after we got the anchor set.  This is our view.

We're anchored about 75 yards off the beach.

We're sitting (as I post this) underneath one of these thatched roofs.

This is a very nice little cove, but somewhat exposed to West and Southwest, so there’s a good swell coming in with up to four foot waves breaking on the beach.  We put out a stern anchor to keep Charisma pointed into the swell even when the wind shifts.  Worked great last night when the wind shifted, as the other boats in the cove rolled like crazy as they got turned sideways to the swell.  Today is grey with a threat of rain, so we’re just sitting and catching up on stuff.  The hope is that tomorrow will be sunny and if so, we’ll do some exploring-always nicer with blue skies instead of grey.

 

San Blas Photos

Just catching up now that we’re in Chacala and have some wi-fi

We went up on the hill to the old church ruins and the fort the Spanish used during their occupation

View of the town from up at the Fort

On the way down from the fort, we found this. It's a restaurant who is making tripe in this big bucket. Just lots of intestines in it boiling away-not very appetizing to look at.

The Social Club (where we used their wi-fi for the price of buying a beer)

The indian woman from whom we bought a beautiful embroidered wall hanging for Charisma

Convenient weather down here for drying laundry

 

Bikes everywhere, sometimes with more than one person (as in this case)

More bikes. Not so easy to ride either as a lot of the streets are paved out of stone. Very bumpy.

I love the colors down here...