Saturday, 12th.
Wow, what a great five days! Left La Paz Tuesday at noon after dropping Cliff and Leslynn at the bus station. Sailed back out to Espiritu Santo and anchored in Bahia Partida. Had a delightful “catch up” with Dave and Stephanie from Camanoe, who we anchored next to and had not seen for several weeks.
Left Partida the next morning for Isla San Francisco. What a beautiful spot! We’ll download a bunch of pictures in a few days when we have the bandwidth. For now, I’ll just say we were anchored in a half moon shaped bay, about a half mile across, ringed by pure white sand. Around the top of the island was a steep ridge about 500 feet high. We scrambled up the ridge and then hiked the knife edge ridge about half way around the island, enjoying stunning views.
Next day we got up early and moved about 15 miles North to San Evaristo. It was a “bash” to get here against a Norther. Twenty knots and three to four foot waves right on the nose. A little more than half way, after getting smashed around for about three hours, I looked at Ann and said; “I think we’re going to need to turn back”. Her response was two-fold. She said: “No way!” At the same time her eyes also added; “you big sissy!” Wow, the Admiral has come a long way. Needless to say, we kept going and were so glad we did!
Evaristo is a simple fishing village of about 20 families, where they also make sea salt and herd goats. We anchored in a little bay a stone’s throw off the village and took the dinghy ashore. Went for an all day hike across the desert, past the salt ponds (we swiped some fresh sea salt right off the pond) and around the bay on the other side. About a four hour round trip. Back in time to get on the boat and clean up a bit before heading back to the beach for dinner at the little shack where they sell the catch of the day for 100 pesos (or about $8). Not really even a shack, more like a thatched roof palapa and sand floor. You get what they make, and they make whatever they catch. This day it was breaded, fried reef fish they caught that morning with beans, rice, fresh made tortillas, macaroni salad, salsa and a couple of cold cervezas. Just sitting on the beach, toes in the sand, watching the sunset and eating a meal like this makes it all worthwhile.
We hated to leave this spot and will likely come back after the New Year, but we had to go in order to get back in time to clean up Charisma so we can leave on Monday to fly back for ten days at Christmas with friends and family. We’re leaving on Monday. Taking a bus out of La Paz for Cabo, were we’ll catch our flight back.
So, about the whales and such. On our trip from Isla San Francisco to Evaristo, we had the good fortune to spot a mother whale and her calf slowly cruising up the Sea. They were paralleling our course, so we edged a little closer-still respecting mother and calf-for a better look. They were completely unconcerned and for about twenty minutes, we had a whale of a show. They would swim along, then quietly and gently dive-showing their flukes-and a little later come up again to blow a few times, then show their tail flukes again, etc, etc. A wonderous show just for us. Makes you feel very humble to see something like this.
Today, we were anchor up at 0700 and saw a sunset that can only be imagined-well, until we get to post the pictures. An incredible orange/red slash below the clouds made a dramatic exit from our comfortable spot in the cove. We easily could have stayed here for many days, but we had to get back for the aforementioned plane flight. To ease the way back, we were treated to a “dance” along the way by the local dolphin pod. They were feeding, but a dozen or so darted over to Charisma to say; “hi” to Ann who was up on the bow waiting to do the dolphin dance.
After the dolphins, two other events made our day. The first was Fish On! We caught a Spanish Mackerel. Supposed to be good eating, so we reeled it aboard and the filets are in the fridge waiting for tomorrow’s dinner. The other was flying Manta Rays. Exuberant doesn’t quite do justice to these guys. One minute you’re looking out at the horizon and the next second, a big 4 to 5 foot wingspan Manta Ray comes flying out of the water and does a back flip! Not just once, but several times. Manta Ray Madness!
Just another day in Baja.
