Canada!

Yup, we crossed over today. Went through customs by phone in about ten minutes at Van Isle Marina, Sidney.

We get to hoist our Canadian courtesy flay yet again.

 

 

We’re now anchored in a little cove called Princess Cove. Hmmm, must have been named after Ann (ohh, don’t tell her I said that!)

Our little cove.

Weather forecast has some big wind for tonight. We’re dug in and waiting.

Looking forward to tomorrow when Chris and Rani, formerly of “Ladybug” and now living in BC, with whom we sailed in the South Pacific, are sailing down from Maple Bay near where they live, to escort us up there where we hope to spend a night or two catching up.

OK, I’m out of run-on sentences. Time to watch the sunset!

Catching Up

OK, so we’re a few days late!

We’re currently quietly anchored in Garrison Bay, just down Mosquito Pass from Roche Harbor on the NW end of San Juan Island.  What have we been up to?

A hike out to Johnson Point, Sucia, of all places!

Charisma playing "hide and seek" with us on our hike on Sucia.

...and one more picture of the cute little goslings.

Sucia – Well, we started getting behind ’cause we stayed an extra night on Sucia due to high winds.  In the middle of the night on Tuesday the wind started gusting into the high twenties.  Blammo!  Fortunately we were solidly anchored in mud, so were going nowhere and we were able to sleep comfortably, but the wind stayed high all day and we hunkered down.  A check of the weather resources showed strong winds forecast over the area.  Better safe than sorry.

As Wednesday showed the same pattern but a little lighter, so we decided that “hey, Charisma is an ocean-going animal, what are we afraid of?”

So…we put on our “offshore” foulies, stowed the dinghy on the foredeck (instead of towing her) and in general got ready for offshore-like conditions.  Put a triple reef in the main and off we went out around the island!

Well, we were glad to be all “squared away” because it was a little rough, but more like a San Francisco spring day blowing 20-25 with three foot wind waves, than a big deal.  Oh well, we were glad to have experienced some of the fierce San Juan weather.  Now, I understand it can get worse, but I’m just saying’…

So, once we got in the lee of Waldron Island it was easy going from there to Roche Harbor.  We had a two to three knot ebb bombing us along and got to Roche in record time.  Pulled into the guest dock so we could have a shower, shave (in my case) and do some laundry.  A lovely spot and we thoroughly enjoyed it, including a very fine dinner ashore at the restaurant on the hill looking down on the docks where Charisma was.  The only downside was I lost my wallet!!  Turns out there’s a hole in the pocket of my pants and it slipped out without my knowing.  Yipes!  We retraced our steps and did everything possible to locate it, but to no avail.  Finally, I went to the hotel and restaurant and asked if anyone found a wallet.  Nada.  But, they took my phone number, etc.  About 10:30 PM after much worrying and carrying on about how much hassle it would be to cancel cards, etc, etc, the phone rang.  The hotel security found my wallet on the trail outside.  Hallelulah!!!  Someone is indeed watching over me (as Ann has been trying to tell me for years now).

So, catching up to today.  We left Roche Harbor at noon and headed down Mosquito Pass.  I was dreading this, but it’s easier than it looks on the charts, so mostly a non-event and we dropped anchor in beautiful, tranquil, Garrison Bay.  Went ashore and proceeded to do an eleven mile hike!  Once again, Ann is trying to kill me, but it was a lovely hike.  We went to the top of the hill (some 600 or so feet) for a stupendous view, then down and around  and back to Roche Harbor just because we could.  All in the most beautiful forest lands you can imagine.

English Camp, Garrison Bay

The garden from above English Camp.

...and where are we?

Up the mountain. Ann with Charisma in the background ( left side)

EAGLE CAM!!!

oh, and a little uke music...

 

A very nice day.  Tomorrow we hope to head across the border into Canada.  Stay tuned to see.

 

Channeling My Inner Chipmunk (by Ann)

I thought of many titles for this blog as I went for my second hike today on the stunning island of Sucia….”A Week In The San Juans”, “Closing In On Canada”….. but the chipmunk thought kept coming back to me as I reveled in the beautiful hiking.

My friend Linda, from SV Bright Angel, once commented as we prepared to leave New Zealand for Fiji that she couldn’t wait to get back to the tropics where she could reunite with her inner mermaid.  That thought has always stuck with me.  And I thought about it today as I hiked along Echo Bay looking down on Charisma.

No Charisma, but still lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hikes in lovely wooded areas feed my soul…like Linda’s mermaid. Only I knew it wasn’t a mermaid in my case. I finally decided it must be my inner chipmunk that was being channeled.  Chipmunks always make me remember growing up in the Rocky Mountains and catching a chipmunk with my brother, Gerald. We were 9 and 10 and very determined. And we won. We caught the cute little chipmunk….only to bring him back to Denver where he deftly escaped.

Pacific Madrone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Pacific Northwest is so very different than the South Pacific. The water is a different set of blues…but stunning shades of blues to greys.  Unlike the South Pacific that has so much teal and turquoise.  And the shoreline here is so rugged!  I love seeing the eagles and blue herons roosting in the tall trees.  I am amused by the geese and their gosling broods.

Grove of Aspens, what a surprise!

I am blessed with a husband who appreciates this love of hiking. I overhear him in discussions with locals questioning them on the best places to go. He always says that one of the big requirements is that there must be access to hiking. Boy did he hit the jackpot on Sucia Island. Lucky me.

The best part of sharing this with you, our readers is that for most of you it is someplace you can get to.  You don’t need to fly thousands of miles to the South Pacific to experience this area.  The San Juans are stunning. And I am told that the scenery is only going to get better as we head further north…well, there are Orcas to see….wow!

Charisma anchored in Echo Bay.

 

Sucia Island

We moved again.  Left Deer Harbor, Orcas Island this morning and motored (no wind/headwind) some 12 miles over to Sucia Island.

A peek of Deer Harbor with Charisma in the background at the fuel dock.

Mt. Baker provided a stunning backdrop for the trip over.

 

Sucia Island is largely a National Park so it’s pretty untouched.  In fact within minutes of picking up a mooring we witnessed a “dust-up” between two Bald Eagles and a gaggle of geese.  It being spring, there are a lot of baby goslings.  The parents are very protective, but the eagles seem to swoop down and well, you know….WE think the eagles should stick to a diet of fish!

Some of the parents have a dozen goslings and some are down to one or two. Nature is harsh.

So, our day, once we arrived at Sucia, was a nice 6 mile or so hike across the island.  We went north from Fossil bay to Shallow Bay at the top of the island.  Did a loop over the very northern tip, then back down the inside past Echo Bay and back.  About three or so hours.  Bonus: we were able to wear shorts!  It was actually warm!!

One thing about our hikes this time of year: wildflowers abound. So many and on Sucia we saw wild roses! So fun.

Circling back down Echo Bay, we saw this lovely Yawl highlighted by Mt. Baker in the background. Such a pretty view, we may slide over here tomorrow if conditions warrant.

...And back to Fossil Bay just in time for...Charisma time!! A beautiful spot made all the more interesting when we can watch Bald Eagles, a Golden Eagle and Great Blue Herons in the trees right above us.

The other bonus: as I write this we have lightning and thunder nearby and we don’t have to worry about being the only “tall thing” in the middle of the ocean like the last five years!  We can just enjoy the show!

 

 

 

Deer Harbor

A nice easy day today.  We left our lovely little spot at Victim Island and under a warm, blue sky motored around the end of Orcas Island over to Deer Harbor.  What a snug little spot.  They still had “winter rates” so we took a slip for the night – only $34 – and walked around a bit.  I’d say “around town”, but there is no town.  This is a pretty rural area, which makes it nice and peaceful, but not too much to do.  There is, however, one restaurant.  It’s at the Deer Harbor Inn which dates back to the 1920’s.  We decided to treat ourselves and we weren’t disappointed.  The Inn caters to locals as well as those like us lucky enough to stumble on it.  We again felt like we entered the “way back machine” as the dining room and guests seemed a bit more out of the past than the present.  And I mean that in a really fun way.  It was delightful, with nice, sincere, wonderful people and great food!  What a treat.

But the real treat of the night was the piano player in the dining room.  The opposite of our first impression.  When we walked in we saw an “older gentleman” playing a pretty uninspired tune on an electric piano and I think both of us thought at the same time; “lounge lizard!”  We couldn’t have been more wrong.  His next tune was more upbeat and at the end we (and another table) clapped and this seemed to get him going – well, he jazzed it up and the rest of night was one fabulous old jazzy standard after another.  And a great voice to boot.  At the break we got the biggest surprise of all.  He went around table to table and said hello to everyone.  We got to talking – told him about our voyage, etc – and we learned, surprise…he was a former military pilot who flew B-52’s most of his career.  Came up to Deer Harbor to retire.  What a juxtaposition!

Anyway, that’s our “serendipitous moment” for today.

Tomorrow we “head out”.  Sucia Island which is a national park with no services and then after hopefully a couple days of hiking and such, we go across the border into Canada.

Let the adventure begin.

Time Machine…

OK, we dialed “1975” into Charisma’s instruments, slipped the anchor and headed over to the cove where I spent a summer as a camp counselor and sailing instructor over 40 years ago.  What a fun day.

Victim Island

We anchored off Victim Island which is literally about 100 yards offshore the camp.  A little tricky making sure we had room to “swing” in the tide and stay off the rocks, but – cross fingers – it looks like we put the anchor in the right place.  We’ve been as low as 13 feet, and as deep as 25, so hanging in there.

Anyway, after a nice lunch (thank you Ann!), we jumped in the dinghy and headed to camp.  I was astounded at how it had hardly changed in all these years.  It literally felt like yesterday that I was there.  They have done a fabulous job of keeping it in great shape, but exactly like it was all those years ago.  It was magical.  I won’t bore you with all the memories, but here’s a few pics of the trip down memory lane.

Happy camper, eh? (Inside the lodge which is being fixed up before the summer)

Ann found this write up in the camp newsletter from 1975 archive.

I always loved this poem...seems more true than ever after the last five years!

Charisma enjoyed the visit as well. She's never looked prettier!

So, a fun day!  Then Ann grabbed her kayak and paddled off around Victim Island and down the way while I…took a nap.

A good day.

 

 

 

Forty Years Later…

We visited Orcas Island today.  I was a sailing instructor/camp counselor those years ago at Four Winds/Westward Ho summer camp on Orcas Island.  It was one of the most fun summers I ever had and way back then vowed I would come back someday and cruise the San Juan Islands.  Well, here we are.  And the good news is that Ann is loving it as much as I did those many years ago.

We’re currently still anchored in Blind Bay, Shaw Island, but just a short mile dinghy ride to Orcas Village brought me back to those years ago when I arrived via my trusty Karmann Ghia (look it up!) and departed the ferry up the steep drive into a magical summer experience.

It all came back today.  Serendipity played a part.  We were originally just going to go over and get some groceries, but once there while poking around a bit we discovered we could rent a car for a half day and drive the island.  So, without another thought, off we went in our time machine also known as a Ford Taurus.  We went to East Sound, bought some sandwiches and then drove to the top of the island; Mount Constitution – about 2000 feet or so – and got to see all the way from Vancouver, BC to, well, almost Seattle, Washington, and then some.  Tomorrow we’re going to move to West Sound and actually (hopefully) anchor by the camp.  If we can find a decent spot, it will be fun to jump in the kayaks and paddle around my old stomping grounds.  From the looks of it so far, things haven’t changed too much.

Speaking of which, that’s what Ann did today after we got back from our adventure up the mountain.  Once back on Charisma, we launched a kayak and she paddled half mile over to Blind Island for a look around.  She found eagle mania.  Check it out…

Hasn't changed much in the forty years since I first pulled in.

Some great views of Puget Sound.

Ann's conveyance, "Charismatini".

Don't know who was more surprised, Ann or these geese!

Today's EagleCam on Blind Island.

Friday Harbor to Blind Bay (and more eagles)

We’re now in Blind Bay on Shaw Island.  A much more laid back and quiet island, just a two hour ride from Friday Harbor, we anchored here in about 25 feet (at hight tide) about noon.

After lunch, we jumped in the dinghy and headed to the ferry dock where we had a nice three hour, almost six mile walk back across the island.  What a lovely place.

OK, and we saw more eagles.  A bunch of them.  Almost more eagles here than seagulls.  We’re sure to become nonchalant about them, but WOW, it’s so amazing to see five Bald Eagles soaring above the boat just before sunset.

Just in case you didn't read where we are.

No "pre-fab" signs on this island.

A beautiful, hand crafted kiosk selling local seeds. Amazing to find this just sitting out in the middle of nowhere.

A glimpse of our bay.

Shoreline at sunset.

Oh, and a couple of the eagles...

 

 

 

 

More Friday Harbor

After a leisurely coffee this morning we got the dinghy in the water and headed in to explore Friday Harbor.  It’s a lovely little town although smaller than we thought it would be.  There are a great book store and Market as well as a lovely cheese shop that did a great lunch just off the main street.  All in all a really nice day just walking around and enjoying a little (very little) sunshine.  I just got done fixing the outboard – it wouldn’t idle slowly this morning and now we’re going to enjoy our new books.  I think we’ll head to Blind Bay on Shaw Island tomorrow.  Or not.   😉

Friday Harbor.

Lovely spot for a sit and a coffee.

And how could I not add a picture of this lovely boat in our little cove?

 

 

 

 

Heading Out Again!

Position: 48 degrees, 32 minutes north; 123 degrees, 01 minutes west

Yup, dropped the dock lines and headed to our first stop – Friday Harbor on San Juan island.

At anchor, Friday Harbor

Th trip over here took about 4 hours under power. No wind. But it went pretty much as planned except a three knot ebb current (going with us) got us to the pass at Cattle Point early, so we had a two knot current against us going through.

Got to Frday Harbor right at low tide which meant we could pick a good spot. The bottom comes up really fast, so we set in 30 feet and with 140 feet of chain out stretched back into 13 feet. Since we’re at dead low tide, it won’t get any shallower than that and will in fact go up some 8-10 feet at high tide.

I’m going to have to get used to setting the anchor in the mud they have up here. We’ve been dropping in sand for the last five years which is easy to set, but the mud (I think) is going to take a bit of a different technique. Our CQR anchor dragged a while before digging in. We’ll see – it’s set hard now – may be a challenge to get out!