Diving Rainbow Reef

I did a two tank dive today along Rainbow Reef in Viani Bay. Ann was going to come but at the last minute a sun sore on her lip split and was bleeding like crazy. Not a good thing to dive with. She instead stayed on a Charisma and made bread! How lucky am I! (Notice that was not a question, but a rhetorical comment)

So, the diving. It was gorgeous even though it was a very overcast and somewhat windy day.

The operator picked us up (Mark and Vicky from Southern Cross came in to the anchorage yesterday afternoon and joined in the diving today) on our boats. That was fun. Just wait for them and they come alongside. You jump aboard and you’re off. They come over from Taveuni-which is a couple miles away across the Somosomo Straight. It was the three of us and a young woman from Calgary (who is a vet student there).

Sea Anoneme and Anenome Fish (the orange guy hiding inside)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hard and soft corals are amazing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The soft corals only "come out" when the current is running and they can filter feed from the moving water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Drifting along "The Wall" with the current.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So there we were…I won’t go into detail about the two dives, but the highlights were:

-Some of the most beautiful hard and soft coral anywhere.
-A smoking fast drift on our second dive past the Purple Wall and the White Wall. Big current, very fast! The soft corals waving in the flow of the current were spectacular.
-The highlight for me; five large mammals-either pilot whales (that’s what the dive operators said they were) or Risso’s Dolphins, which is what my books would suggest. No matter which, they were at least 12 feet long, very curious and came within about 20 feet and took my breath away to see them underwater. I figuratively dropped my jaw (but not with my breathing apparatus in) and the dive guide I was with had to bang on my head and point at my camera to remind me to take a picture. I was so in awe, I completely forgot and was just staring at these stunning creatures.

First these guys checked us out...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then their friends came over...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awe inspiring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think we’re going to try and dive again on Saturday. This is just such an amazing underwater landscape. In the mean time, tomorrow (Friday) we’re planning on going in to the school during their recess period around 1030. We see the kids getting picked up every day around the bay by longboat around 0730 and then taken home again around 1600. It’s cute to see almost a dozen little ones zooming to school in the open boat and then jumping out and wading over the reef to class.

Prayer Hill

(Hint: there’s some new pictures that go back a few days posted 7/6/13)

Today was “get off the boat” day.

We saw a cool looking path on the other side of the bay and decided to head for it.  We learned it’s name is “Prayer Hill”.  I’m thinking that’s because you “hope” you’re going to make it up, and you “pray” you can get back down.  It’s pretty steep.  In Fiji they don’t mess with switchbacks.  You have a ridge?  Go straight up.

 

If you look closely, you might see the path up the ridge. it's called Prayer Hill. (click to enlarge)

We found a convenient path "hacked" through the mangroves to get ashore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jack's nephew Dex was nice enough to guide us through the mangroves to the beginning of the hike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ann summits the hill.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And....a picnic on top!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Viani Bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You might be able to make out Charisma in the little cove at the top middle of the picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once back down from the hike we watched Dex work on his new raft. All made from bamboo, he'll use this to fish off of.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, we had a nice little adventure, met one of Jack’s nephews; Dex, who was nice enough to stop work on his raft building project to guide us to the beginning of the trail.

The pictures tell the rest of the story, but the day didn’t end there.  We got back to Charisma by about 1400 and had time to inflate the paddleboards!  Yay.  We tooled around the bay for an hour or so and met up with one of the folks who lives here.  She had spent the last several hours in the water hunting dinner.  What did she have in her bucket?  Octopus!  And a couple of fish.

The paddleboards are so fun.  Many thanks again to Mom and Dad who got these for us as wedding presents!

 

Viani Bay

Well, we’re here. And we caught two fish on the way up. Problem was they were both Mahi and a bit small so we let them go thinking what we really wanted was a nice big TUNA. Alas, no joy on the tuna.

 

We're here in Viani.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We're anchored off a little island that has one family living on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But, we’re tucked into a gorgeous spot in the NE corner of the bay, just next to a little island that provides some shelter from all but direct south wind. Right now, there’s absolutely zero wind. We could be on a mountain lake.

Last night we caught up with Rich and Jan on Slip Away (which was great) and also got to meet Andrew and Kerri on Mariposa, a Westsail 42. We had a pot luck and really enjoyed the evening. New friends and old. Great combo.

 

Mariposa (left) and Slip Away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today, we had a wonderful first full day in the bay thanks to Puddy Tat, a Brit/South Africa duo (David and Silvie) who were kind enough to offer their boat as “taxi” for the day. They contracted with Jack, the local fixture and character, to guide them to a couple of snorkeling spots on the barrier reef. Would we like to come? “You Betcha!”

Here comes Jack. He rowed about 1/2 mile from his house on the beach at the other end of the bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meet Jack. What a character. I really enjoyed his stories. He'll talk all day if you let him. He's been guiding boats one way or another for 40 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The deal with Jack is you pay him $10 Fijian per person and make lunch, and he’ll guide all day. And as a bonus, we got to hear his stories of guiding boats in and around Fiji for the past 40 years. Definitely a character and a lot of fun.

We also had some tremendous snorkeling. The first spot we stopped at in the morning was the “White Wall”. This is an internationally known dive spot, but how would snorkeling be? Just OK is the answer. We battled a bit of a current and ended up snorkeling a couple hundred yards up current and then sliding back to the boat. The coral was just OK-the better experience is deeper-but there was a highlight. I got to see a shark pursuing an octopus. I didn’t see the final outcome, but it was a thrill to watch the chase.

Then we relocated to the Cabbage Patch”. I thought, “well, what a stupid name” until I dove it. Wow! That’s exactly what it was. I’ll try to get some pics up soon. It also had some of the most beautiful coral we’ve ever seen. Ann and I felt really fortunate to have had the opportunity to see this spot. Many thanks to David and Silvie for playing “taxi” and taking us all out to the reef.

 

Ann diving down to the Cabbage Patch coral formations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yup, looks like cabbage!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The coral here is just stunning!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We just can't get tired of these views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, we’re here for a while. In the plan is: diving (with tanks-there are several operators who will pick us up at Charisma), going ashore to meet some of the locals and do some hiking, and hopefully paddle boarding. There’s also some bad weather due in the islands this weekend, so we’ll likely hunker down in this nice bay until that blows over.

We’ll see what comes.

Bats In The Sunset

So we left Cousteau Resort around the corner from Savusavu and motored 20 some miles up the coast. We’re now in Fawn Harbor, which is not a “harbor”, it’s a bay and we’re the only boat here. We came in through the reef around 1430. Pretty straightforward other than a significant dogleg. We had good visibility though, so easy to see the shallow water/reef. Once inside we choose the western side to avoid the need to do sevusevu at the village to the east since we’re only stopping here for the night on our way to Viani Bay where we expect to spend a week or more.

The hook's down and the sun's setting...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Surrounded by mangroves but we were the only ones here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a nice spot. It’s actually a hurricane hole-surrounded on all side by mangroves. And living in the trees above the mangroves are hundreds if not thousands of fruit bats. We had quite a show just befor sunset as they all rose from the trees and flew around. It’s pretty impressive since they have a wingspan of somewhere around three feet!

The only disappointment today was not catching fish. I was sure we’d get one. We had two lines out and were seeing baitfish jumping all over the place, but no joy. Maybe tomorrow.

We’re planning to leave early for Viani. Hopefully we’ll get there before noon and have time to play a bit before end of day. Also hoping to hookup with our friends on Slip Away, who we have heard are there until Monday.

Our goal for Viani: dive (it’s supposed to be one of the best dive sites in the world), paddle board, meet local people and hike. There are some worthy hikes to waterfalls on Taveuni Island, just a little ways across the Somosomo straight from the anchorage-or so we have heard.

Stay tuned. I think there’s Internet coverage at Viani too, so maybe we’ll be able to upload our pics as well.

P.S. a big shout out to our families who are at “The Beach” starting today. That’s Aptos in Santa Cruz, Ca. If we weren’t here, we would be there with them and we are thinking of them and all the fun they are having!

A Nice Day

Here’s Ann’s Facebook post for today (since we’re still in internets range), couldn’t have said it better, so here it is:

“Today’s itinerary went like this: coffee in the cockpit, dinghy over to snorkel area and snorkel (disappointingly cloudy), instead of snorkel let’s scrub barnacles off of Charisma’s hull (lookin’ good!), lunch, paddleboard to the reef on the other side of Cousteau and back to check out alternate snorkel spot, tie paddle board to buoy and enjoy simple beauty, back to Charisma to get snorkel gear and dinghy to return to great spot (so many fish they startled me when I rinsed my mask prior to getting in), back to Charisma, Bob naps, Ann takes three more paddleboard laps of anchorage, showers, delightful sunset display with a Charisma in hand. This is cruising!”

The dive boats moored off Cousteau Resort where we're anchored today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Part of the resort from our anchorage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our view away from the resort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, I should add that free diving on one of the bommies, I saw a Lionfish. First one I’ve seen in the wild. He was hiding under a coral overhang. Very graceful.

Reef Dive!

So, we finally got to use our new dive certifications.  This morning (leaving at 0630-bleah) we took a dive boat and went 20 miles off Vanua Levi (the north island of Fiji) to a reef called Namena.  It’s a designated marine sanctuary, so lots of good, healthy coral and abundant sea life.

We moved Charisma yesterday from Savusavu, about 6 miles down the bay out near the coast to the Cousteau Resort where we anchored for the night.

Up at 0630 and headed out.  I’ll let the pictures tell the story, but suffice to say we had an awesome time.  The Cousteau Resort dive team did a fantastic job.  They were very professional and fun.  On the way back they spotted a whale and headed over to it.  I don’t have pictures-but it was sleeping until we coasted up to it.  Then it raised its head to look at us and we saw the blunt nose of a sperm whale (I’m pretty sure).  It then eased on back in the water and slid under waving its tale at us as it disappeared into the deep.

Many thanks to Kathy at Waitui Dive for arranging a great dive for us.  I’ve said before, and we will again, she’s the person to call at Waitui Marina when you go to Savusavu.

Anchored off Cousteau Resort. $1000/night for the resort and I'm glad to say we have a better view for free!

Had my coffee and ready to rock.

Heading out. Twin Suzuki 250s made short work of the 20 mile ride. Nice flat condtions didn't hurt.

Ann did a great job getting down to 80 feet where we spent most of the dive.

We love the delicate Fan Coral.

The colors are amazing.

Sting Ray! This one was the biggest I've ever seen. It was easily 3 feet across.

Can you find the turtle in this picture? You may have to click to enlarge it.

Sushi! (actually dogtooth tuna. Very yummy)

Some sharkies came over to check us out.

Ann pretending she's a fish. "Hey wait for me guys!"

And of course if there's an arch, we must swim through it!

 

Left Savusavu today

Finished our reprovisioning, got an extension to our visa for Fiji (we’re now good for six months ending 12/1/13) and left. We’re now just six miles around the coast, anchored at Cousteau Resort. Yes, we have the same fantastic view that the folks paying $1000/ night are getting. We can even hear the live music at the resort.

We decided we would stay here because Kathy at Waitui Marina helped arrange for us to go with the Cousteau Dive boat to Namena Reef. We were going to sail the twenty miles there, but then we couldn’t dive, only snorkel, and everyone has been telling us it’s not a fun anchorage. Very rolly. So, the plan is to take the dive boat and then come back to this lovely spot. We may even stay here a couple days.

By the way–anyone coming to Savusavu by boat should stay on the Waitui Moorings. They are just so nice and helpful and Kathy is awesome! Call channel 16 as you get to the river. They will send a boat to show you to a mooring.

So, 6:30 AM tomorrow we dinghy 100 meters to the resort and get our gear. Cross fingers for great dive conditions out at the reef- which is a 20 mile ride out. Stay tuned for the report.

Updates

I’ve updated pictures back to June 28.  As always, don’t forget that to view them you will have to first clear your brower’s History/Cache or it will just show the “old” pages without the new pictures.

Enjoy.

Hydro-Gen Repair

OK, for you boat geeks here’s a story about a repair of our hydro-generator.  It’s the thingy that we tow behind the boat that generates electricity to augment our solar panel and keep us from having to turn on the engine to charge the batteries.

It all came apart allright. The trick was getting it back together again!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t honestly think I would be able to repair this thing.  I know nothing about even how to open the darn thing up.  The company, Ferris Hamilton makes an OK product but my two major complaints are: they have terrible documentation-nothing on how to repair problems and the build quality is mediocre at best.  After only two years, this thing looks like it’s twenty years old.  It’s incredibly rusty-they used minimal paint to coat it which seems pound foolish for a product destined for a marine environment.  I’m going to have to do a proper paint job when we’re back in NZ later this year.

 

OK, with that said, the thing has been really useful in terms of helping to maintain our battery charge while underway.  It tows a propeller behind about fify feet of torque rope in the water behind Charisma that spins a generator that is connected into the batteries.  Simple and it allows us to run stuff that we normally couldn’t if it’s cloudy and the solar panels are not charging.  But-the generator started turning “hard” a while back and the last passage it just plain almost didn’t turn and make a huge racket.  I likened it to a British sports car in low gear.  Lots of grinding noise.

 

I originally thought I would take it to an alternator shop for repair, but several boats here in Savusavu reported such terrible experiences with the local alternator repair guy I decided I would give it a try.  If it didn’t work, the thing is heavy enough it would make a great dinghy anchor!

 

The first step in any project is always unscrew the screws.  😉  There were six of them on the face of the unit.  Now remember, Ferris Hamilton has zero documentation on this unit so I had no clue what four of them did.  Two held the bracket on, so these came first.  Two don’t seem to do anything and the final two actually hold the face plate to the whole thing on.  The problem is everything is held on (as it turns out) by the bearings inside the beast that are pressed onto the shaft AND the inside of the face plate.  Ouch.  The solution:  put the bracket back on and hit it with a hammer.  The face plate came off and the whole thing was now accessible.

 

Turns out the problem was; one of the four large magnets inside the main housing had broken loose.  Instead of “sticking” to the housing, it was “sticking” to the armature-which is supposed to freely rotate inside the case.  Hence the really bad noise.

 

I cleaned the housing, and the magnet so I could glue them (hopefully) back together and then cleaned up the whatchmacallit that the brushes rub on.  They were kinda dirty too. Then I mixed up some epoxy, glued the large magnet back in and crossed my fingers. Actually, I was being very precise about this part.  The armature and the magnets have very tight tolerances and if I didn’t glue the magnet back in right it would rub on the armature and voila, a new dinghy anchor would be born!

 

After sitting overnight to allow the epoxy to dry, I reassembled the whole thing.  The other thing I did was add some dielectric grease to some of the screws and the bracket.  The factory didn’t do this and there was some electrolysis from different metals contacting each other.  They should know better!  I also sealed the case with silicone to keep saltwater out.  The big trick was getting the bearings inside to reseat properly so I could screw the thing back together.  But-somehow it came together and I tested it with my voltmeter.  Voltage!  It’s also running quieter and more smoothly than it has in a while so I’m guessing this has been in “breakdown” mode for a while.

 

Oh and the other “I never would have figured this out before” item.  There’s a last bit that completes the whole thing.  You have to put a brass bushing back on the stainless steel shaft that the torque rope screws onto.  This brass piece is pressed on (in my case a hammer is my tool of convenience-this being a boat and not a machine shop).  The problem is there are two set screws that hold it on and this piece is what attaches to the torque rope that spins the whole deal.  There is no way to align the set screws well enough to screw them through the brass bushing into the steel shaft when you reassemble the thing.  After much head scratching I finally got out my die and tap set and re-threaded the whole thing.  It worked.  The set screws went in.

 

There’s something about being in-essentially-the middle of nowhere where either you do it or no-one does, that brings out the solutions.  I never would have gotten this far on the project back “in the world”, but would have taken it to experts to fix.  None here?  OK, I guess I’ll have to do it myself.  Chalk up another project I’ve never done before.
To paraphrase Mark McClellan from Blue Rodeo has said; “Many of us have now joined the Society of Reluctant Tropical Diesel Mechanics” for lack of more expertise out here in the wilderness.

Land Cruising Day

We’re getting ready to leave Savusavu for more island hopping and wanted to see more of the land side of the north island before we go.  We had met a taxi driver a month ago who offered to take us on an “island tour”.  He seemed nice and we kept his phone number, so we gave him a call.  Was he still interested?  You betcha.  It was Sunday, but that’s just how our schedule worked (one tip-everything’s closed on Sunday so if you want to do more than just see the island, do the tour on another day).  Sunday meant none of the island towns would be open, but we wanted to just see what the island looked like so it worked out well.

Heading out of town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fiji north island is a beautiful island. Most of it is jungle, palms and reef with occasional villages and a couple towns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the tour we stopped by this very interesting resort owned by a Italian/Aussie and his Fijian wife.

Turns out Luigi was in construction in Aussie and came here to retire. He couldn't help himself and just kept building. The upshot is this nice little resort sitting along the island's reef.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luigi, Margaret and Bella the dog

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of jungle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's only one paved road, the rest are dirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the way, we visited "Heaven". It's a nice place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view from "Heaven"

 

 

 

 

 

 

It turned out to be a great day.  We left Savusavu in the morning and spent the entire day driving around.  We went north up the “Hibiscus Highway”.  Mahendra, our driver knew a lot of hidden drives into some of the private backroads, so we saw some areas that normally would not have been available-certainly not if we had driven ourselves.  I’ll let some of the pictures tell the story of the day.

 

A nice ending to the day occurred around 4PM when we drove down a sketchy looking and very steep dirt road to “the waterfall”.  As many readers know, there are “waterfalls” everywhere that are locally famous, but it turned out this one was delightful!  Mahendra drove down the very steep dirt road until we saw a young woman in traditional garb standing by the side of the road.  He pulled over and introduced us.  She was to be our guide up to the waterfall.  So, off we went.  A bonus of the 20 minute hike to the falls was that we got to see what Kava looks like in its natural state.  The village she belonged to grew kava and it was fun to now be able to identifiy it.

The short hike in to the waterfall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a while we summited a small hill and started going down into the grotto where the waterfall formed a pond.  It was gorgeous!  And well timed.  We were hot and tired.  A jump in the pond below the waterfall and a swim over to the falls were exactly what we needed.  Wonderful!

A lovely little spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the pay off!

 

 

 

 

 

 

So-to our cruiser friends who might be coming this way, here’s a great tip.  If you want to tour the island-anywhere-call Mahendra.  He’s a great guy and we highly recommend him.  He even took us back to his house where we met his wife and almost met their granddaughter (she was asleep).  His phone number in Savusavu is:  926-1632.  Call him-you will have fun.