Woohoo We’re in Whangerie!

Gets your heart going to see a bridge that isn't on the charts. This one is being built across the river. We had to go through a very skinny pass between the unfinished sections.

Made it! At the guest dock at Whangarei Town Basin

We got a pile mooring for the first week, then we're moving to a dock.

Not a bad view from our mooring.

Yay! We’re finally here. Gnarly time getting here. 30 knot winds, made just getting out of our slip in Marsden an adventure. Also we’re waaay upriver now. The last bit to get here the water depth went as low as 9 feet and that was at high tide. They are also building a new bridge that will eventually be a drawbridge, but for now it was a very narrow slot between two half bridges that we had to thread through. But we’re here!

Tomorrow, we move from our nice “guest berth” in from of the marina office, down about 150 yards to a “piling mooring”. In other words we will be tied between two pilings in a line with other boats along the bank of the river. The only way off the boat will be by dinghy. The good news is the dinghy dock is only about 30 yards away and our car is parked just up from that. But it will be a new adventure.

In Marsden Cove

Left Tutukaka this morning for a little bay just inside Cape Breem (can’t remember it’s name), but after two tries in 20 plus knots of wind we couldn’t get the anchor to set. First failure ever! So we went another 3 miles to Marsden Cove and are snug in a slip for the night (with showers!).

Nice day, sailed all the way, about 25 miles, in 20 knots on the nose. Really nice sailing. Still pinching ourselves that we’re sailing down the coast of New Zealnd.

We might stay another day, but then we have about 7 miles up river to Whangerie where we’ll stay a while.

Tutukaka

Moonrise as seen from Charisma

We’re sitting here looking at a beautiful, almost full moon, rise over the cliff on the other side of this little cove. The horizontal orange streaks of sunset are fading into the blue-soon to be indigo-of night. So peaceful.

Aretha is singing in the background and we just finished a grilled steak and sautéed mushroom dinner. Not bad.

I’m now seeing the glistening, glittering, silver stripe of moonlight reflecting off the water behind us.

The Gannets are diving all around us and Ann is searching the water for sight of a blue penguin. No sighting yet, but we’ll let you know. She has seen a Kiwi, so she’s one up on me so far (not including card games in which she is two up).

Tomorrow-a little cove just out side of Marsden, then up river to Whangerie on Thursday. That’s where we’ll stay until April. In the mean time, home for the holidays, then back to NZ for some boat work and then land cruising.

Fangamoomoo!

New Zealand customs don't mess around. But they were very nice.

Well, that’s the phonetic pronunciation for where we are. From here we go to Tootoocaca. OK, the actual spellings are; Whangamumu and Tutukaka.

Almost as amazing is the fact that my niece Missy has been to all these places before us! When I told Ann that Missy posted on the blog and asked what her first sentence was, Ann responded; “When I was in…”. Ding, ding, ding, correct! Missy, you’re a true world traveller.

So, we left Opua today at 1130. Sad to be gone, it was such a wonderful place. But we’ll look forward to coming back in April as we head up towards Fiji. We sailed through the Bay of Islands and then out into the Pacific and around Cape Brett, then south to Whangamumu. Got in here around 1700. Dropped anchor in a lovely bay that looks somewhat like we’re in a lake in the middle of Petaluma. There are beautiful green hills all around us, some with sheep and cows on them.

We also had a surprise greeting from some five black clad folks (head to toe, including helmets) in a “Protector” (a type of very high speed motorboat). Turns out they were Customs officials. We got interrogated. Very friendly, but they are seriously looking for something/someone as the questions were very pointed and in several cases sneaky. Ann asked if she could take a picture of them and to my surprise, they said OK, so we’ll get that up in a few days. It had to do with the boat that drove up on the reef in Tonga with a bunch of cocaine and a dead body. We’re guessing they are looking for whomever was supposed to meet that boat.

Nice Day, Great Walk

The hike started with a ferry boat ride across the bay

You know you're hiking in New Zealand when...

Giant Ferns...

Well tended trails...

A boardwalk over the swampy bits...

 

And after a six mile hike, the reward....!

Finally we had some sun today. We suspended all boat work and went for a walk. Not just any walk. A 6 miler. We took the ferry boat from Opua to Okiato (across the bay a ways). We asked the ferry pilot how far to Russell, which is the little town on that side of the bay. His eyes got a little big and he said; “Oh mate, that’s about 9 kilometers!”. We said that was OK, we were out for a good walk.

He gave us a little map that made all the difference. It showed the trail system and we had a delightful walk (trek) across country. The path went through trees, hills and the most memorable parts were on a walkway built over the swampy land across the edges of some of the bays along the way. We were literally walking across the mangroves and saw all the wildlife of the area. At one point Ann even saw a Kiwi bird.

We didn’t get into Russell until about 5 PM, so we stopped at a cute little spot for pizza and beer before continuing the journey. Once suitably fortified, we went looking for the ferry from Russell to Pahia. Found it and after a short wait crossed another bay over to Pahia where we called a country taxi for the ride back to Opua. It’s about another 2 hour walk and we were running out of both light and strength. Having been on the boat so long, the 6 mile walk was about all we had in us for the day (full disclosure: actually Ann went for a morning walk with one of her friends and they were gone about an hour so I’m guessing they put in a couple more miles for the day) so the taxi looked pretty good!

A fun day. We’ll leave this nice area on Monday, weather permitting, for Whangerie. The Black Dogs have already taken our car there, so it will be waiting for us there.

New Neighbors

One of the things that is so fun about this cruising life is meeting so many great people. Tonight was typical. We went up to the cruisers club for a cocktail and to just see who was there. But once there we ran into about twenty of our good friends and three hours later finally stepped back outside with big smiles on our faces from the camaraderie of it all. So fun!

Then on the way back to Charisma ran into several other friends who have been out touring for a few days and had a nice chat on the dock with them.

Then…upon getting back to Charisma we found we had new neighbors. A new boat pulled in next to us and we’re sitting in our respective cockpits-in the dark-chatting about who we are, where we’ve been, recommendations on places to go, etc, etc. Delightful people and we haven’t even seen them yet. Just heard them. In the dark. Across the water between our two boats. We just know their names; Don and Priscilla.

This is the same reason it takes Ann about two hours to go up to the bathroom (or take a shower). She runs into folks we know, gets into a conversation (“where have you been, what have you been doing…”) and two hours later she’s back.

Cruising and making great friends. We’re loving it.

Thanksgiving

Yup, we just had our Thanksgiving dinner, since we’re a day ahead of you all. A really nice turkey and fixins dinner at the Opua Cruisers Club. We enjoyed good food, with good friends in a nice spot overlooking the marina. Would be nice to be home with family, but this comes a close second.

So happy turkey day to everybody! Enjoy.

New Photos

I’ve spent much of today uploading photos.  The blog has new photos that go back to August 5th!  That’s how long it’s been since we had a reliable internet connection that would upload photos.  Wow.

So, the usual drill.  For many of your browsers you will need to empty your cache/delete the history or the pictures may not show up.  For this you go up to your menu, open the “History” menu and click on “Clear History” which is probably the last item on the menu.

Hope you all enjoy.  Almost four months of photos.  Whew, good thing it’s now cocktail hour  😉

More Boatwork

It never really stops. Today we learned the super strong (cough, cough) Harken backstay adjuster has a broken roller bearing. Sounds like a defective part, but companies rarely cover these after more than a year and it’s about 4 years old. But a bearing like that should never break!

Ann did a huge boat clean up, emptying drawers and cabinets and spraying for mold and drying everything out. Huge!

I picked up our new outboard propeller. That should help a lot in the comfort department.

We’re waiting on some other parts as well. A year’s worth of wear and tear costs money and time.

Hopefully we’ll get to do some touring tomorrow, but we also have to clean up the dinghy. Inflate it, hose it out, etc. It also has a damaged tube that will need some professional care at some point I think.

Oh, and I got a quote for new sails from Doyle/New Zealand. Not too bad. They have a 25% off special right now because this is the off season down here, so we’ll see on that. Charisma’s current ones are 25 years old so she’s gotten good wear out of them. Maybe time for new ones that will be more trustworthy in a storm.

Boat Work Day

Seems like there are a lot of those 😉

But, that’s the reality of living in a boat that really sails. There is a lot of wear and tear. I’m fairly convinced that a month of cruising takes about a year’s toll of regular day sailing (the kind where you sail on weekends) on a boat.

Anyway…today we did the following:

-Ann took out all the cushions and laundered the covers and washed the foam. They all had saltwater on them and would never dry out unless we could remove the salt. Unfortunately the sun decided to hide behind some clouds so the cushions are not completely dry – here’s hoping for a sunny day tomorrow! -Ann cleaned all of the shelves on the port side of the boat. This is the side where the chainplate keeps leaking so mold and mildew can be a problem. So all shelves and the shuttered doors got a good scrubbing. -Ann did laundry -I bought some boat parts that we haven’t been able to find. Fairly trivial but very important stuff that we haven’t been able to source in Polynesia like clevis pins and cotter pins. -Had a rigger down and he did an end for end on the main and jib halyards and put new splices in them. I can splice, but for such an important splice I wanted a pro job -I re-did the tag line on the yankee jib. There was a 3/16 wire. It was fraying and I didn’t like how it chaffed the headfoil when it furled, so I changed over to Dyneema which I spent a couple hours putting two splices in (Ann says they look very professional and she watched the do-it-yourself YouTube video so she should know). It’s much softer and won’t damage the headfoil as much. -The rigger and I took off the backstay adjuster. We have a Harken mechanical adjuster and about the time we left Mexico it jammed. I’m guessing the grease inside mixed with salt and just created a glue, but will know tomorrow after the rigger takes it apart. I would have done it, but it takes a specialized tool that I didn’t want to have to fabricate for just one use when for 30 bucks (the cost in time he’ll spend opening it) I can get him to do it.

I think we did a couple other things but they escape me for now. More stuff for tomorrow. The dinghy motor is getting a new prop and I’m getting a block and tackle rig so I can haul myself up the mast. I need to change the steaming light and in general want to be able to go aloft when need be. I’m also going to have the rigger do a “one hour inspection” of the rig. They were offering this for $30. I’m going to get him to go to the top and come down inspecting all the swage fittings to make sure none are failing.

OK, enough techie boat talk for now. I WILL at some point write up a “what works/doesn’t work” bit, but for later.

Ta ta for now.