In paradise, that is.

Position: 10 degress, 18 minutes North; 117 degrees, 14 minutes West

Came on the morning watch just before sunrise and as the sun came up on one side of Charisma, the moon was on the other and a pod of a dozen or so dolphins came over to play. Pretty nice way to start the day, watching dolphins speed under the bow and leap out of the water on the other side with the sun just peeking up over the horizon.

Mostly today was more of the same trade wind sailing. Make 145 miles in the last 24 hours. A solid 15 knots of wind, 6 foot seas and blue, blue water. The only frustrating aspect is lack of fish. I’m going through all my lures but so far no luck. There’s flying fish all over the place (including on the deck in the mornings), but we’re not catching. I even saw a Mahi chase a flying fish through the air, so I know they are out here. I did get a “hit” of sorts this morning just after sunrise. I was lowering the hand-line lure into the water (I’m using a cedar plug on the hand-line and a succession of squid-like lures on the pole off the other side of the boat) off the stern and to my shock and surprise something very large hit it. Big commotion in the water, twice, but it didn’t take the hook. I’ll be more alert tomorrow to the fact that something might be lurking down there following us. I was actually worried because I didn’t have any gloves on, not thinking there would actually be a fish following us. I wouldn’t have been able to hang on without doing some serious damage to my hands.

That’s about it for today. We’re into our second week now and are about done with most of the fresh veggies. There’re still a couple papayas, apples, oranges and limes, but stuff like green beans, broccoli, etc has been consumed. Now it’s on to the root vegetables (potatoes, carrots, jicama, yams) a few last tomatoes and the cabbages. After that, it’s down to the canned veggies unless we get to the islands first.

I almost forgot, today we launched the first Charisma Oceanographic Duck. Through the use of this advanced technology we’ll be able to chart the world’s ocean currents and maybe even discover new people. What is it, how does it work (you may be asking)? Well, at the West Marine party in San Diego we caught four rubber duckies that they throw into the crowd. These four duckies are now our primary research vehicles. I have written the url of our blog on each and numbered it. As we toss them over the side at intervals along the way, I’m charting the Lat/Lon of the point of deployment. When someone finds one (New Guinea tribesmen maybe? You never know!) they will log on to our research site and note the number of the duckie and the location of discovery. We’ll then have detailed proprietary data of the ocean currents and possibly a new market for our booby guano aphrodisiac product. By the way, we need a catchy name for the guano/aphrodisiac stuff. Any ideas would be much appreciated and the reward is indeed worth the effort.

And a final note to Camanoe Dave; We found some cheddar cheese in the fridge and made quesadillas! Yum!

Position: 11 degrees, 55 minutes North; 115 degrees, 24 minutes West Day eight:

Laundry Day on Charisma

Laundry and bucket bath day. Yay! The bucket is becoming almost mild. I think the water must be close to 80F by now. Nice to get cleaned off and great to have clean clothes. Many are drying on the lifelines right now, so we are very colorful.

All that color is what must have attracted the mammals. We’re seen several Pilot Whales who come over to have a look and then disappear. A little while ago we also had a Risso’s Dolphin come over for a look and to play on the bow wave. He surfed Charisma’s bow wake for about 10 minutes before taking off for other waters.

We also witnessed the acrobatic prowess of the boobies. We have not seen they dive into the water to catch fish like they do near land. We were wondering how they were feeding themselves for the long trip they must have to get out here (800 miles from closest land). We finally saw one dive down like a hawk, wings folded, blasting toward the surface right near Charisma. Then a sharp turn and “chomp”, he grabbed a flying fish in mid-air. Quite a feat. So now we know.

The conditions have turned very good. Since setting the pole yesterday morning, we’ve not trimmed a sail or touched the wind vane. Charisma has sailed by herself for about a day and a half now. Today with about 15 knots of wind, we have made 127 miles toward Polynesia. We’re now less than 2000 miles to go (1893 miles according to the GPS as of 0300 Zulu)

Oops, forgot to post today’s position. Here it is:

13 degrees, 27 minutes North; 113 degrees 55 minutes West

Self portrait on Day Seven

Happy Easter everyone!

With dinner and the nightly roll call done, we came up the companionway ladder to find ourselves face-to-face with a blue footed booby sitting on the dodger right above our heads. He was very unconcerned that we were on his boat. As the evening progressed we also gained one on the bow pulpit and one on the lifelines about midship. They all stayed until morning. Alas, my booby deterrent system had one flaw: the boobies snuck in when I wasn’t looking.

At this point, completely outnumbered by boobies, I decided Charisma will now become an international wildlife sanctuary dedicated to the preservation of boobies. I will be applying for grant money. We will also be marketing Blue Footed Booby Guano. Known to be an aphrodisiac by New Guinea tribesmen (who know about these things), I’m sure it will do well. Limited quantities will be available for this coming holiday season, so get your orders in soon.

2200 start of the evening watch. We finally have some wind after two days of very light air. It’s veered around behind us and we’re now broad-reaching at about 7 knots, sliding down wave after wave. Nice breeze, full moon behind us; I just had a funny fantasy moment. I was watching the water go by as I often do sailing back to Berkeley at the end of the day and was thinking; “someday it will be like this sailing to the South Pacific”. Hey!! Wait a minute… Hard to believe we’re really out here doing this.

0800. I’m having fun with the General Ham license. The Ham bands are so much clearer than the SSB. The reception is great. I just finished a morning net I call into called Picante Net. It’s run very informally by the guys in Puerto Vallarta who also ran the Ham tests. Check in is between 0600 and 0700. This morning I was talking with them 500 miles to the East and also talking with one of the other boats who left a month ago, has made the Marquesas and is on their way to Tahiti. They are over 2000 miles to the East of us and South of the equator. Amazing you can do this with a radio from a relatively small boat and with not much power.

So….Message to Jon Eberly; Jon, if you can get on Picante Net some morning, it would be fun to see if we can span from here to San Francisco. Picante Net is on 6.212.0 MhZ at 1200 Zulu every morning except Sunday. I usually check in around 1245Z and catch the tail end of the net. Very informal and they know me as “Charisma” (they don’t do call signs. Funny for a bunch of guys who run Ham licensing). Drop me an email if you think you might be on and I’ll be sure to listen for you (or let me know if there’s an alternate time/freq you might be able to get on).

So, mostly that’s it for today. By the way, we’re now very solidly in the tradewinds. We even set the pole this morning after Ann got up. We’re now wing on wing and nicely sliding down the waves almost DDW with Wilson doing a Fabulous job of steering, making a course of 220 down the rhumb line toward Hiva Oa. We should start seeing some days in the 120+ mile range at this point. I’m starting to plan our crossing through the ITCZ, so spent a few hours this morning getting weather faxes to start plotting where the Zone is and where we might want to “cut through” to avoid the worst of the convection.

Stay Tuned

One of many, many beautiful sunsets at sea.

I can’t believe we have been out here for seven days already. Time is flying! I know that we’ve shared bits of this journey with you in Bob’s evening blogs but I thought I would share some highlights and lowlights. I will share lowlights first.

Lowlights: Light wind! We have had one night and one afternoon where the wind is just not cooperating. That means on watch you actually have to sit at the helm and steer or constantly adjust the Monitor. Not the worst job, just frustrating. Luckily only Bob has seen a 0.00 knots reading. I think my lowest has been 1.7.

Distance to Way Point Reading. On the Navpod at the helm our DTW (Distance to Way Point) indicator is unable to record more than a 1000 miles. So every time you come on watch it STILL says 1000. Can’t wait to see that start going down! (As of this moment, it’s 2049 miles to go out of 2648 when we started)

Poop Deck. Unfortunately as Bob mentioned our pet Boobies are not potty trained. You’d think with this huge ocean right next to the boat they could use it. Alas, every morning includes cleaning the dodger and the deck of poop.

Last of the lettuce. Tonight we will be using the last of our lettuce. Onto cabbage salads.

Lack of Fish. We just had a false alarm on the hand line and hope that now that we are picking up speed we will soon catch dinner.

Constant contact with family and friends. We are becoming weaned from the ready contact we are so used to due to internet accessibility. But we LOVE the comments coming in on the blog. Nice to stay connected. We have lots of thinking time and our friends and family rank high in there. We hope you all have a wonderful Easter!

Highlights: Sitting on our “front porch” enjoying the late afternoon sun. We were sitting on the cabin top the other day just watching the waves (the water is so gloriously blue!) and the boobies and the sun. It really is romantic!

Watching the full moon setting as the sun is rising behind your back. I never realized you could see both at one time. I guess you just need enough horizon.

Radio Check In. We have made it our routine to finish dinner and have the dishes done in time to catch the 0200 Zulu (8 pm) radio check in. It is amazing that we can hear boats as far away as the Marquesas! Three boats in the Puddle Jump 2012 Class have already made landfall with a possible fourth tonight. These boats left in mid-March. It’s fun to listen to peoples positions too and hear them crossing the equator. Also fun to listen as the last of our friends jump off and join the fun.

Dinner. Not that I thought that Bob’s great cooking would wane on the open ocean, but we have been eating like royalty. No fish yet, but plenty of good food. And I have contributed too! I have made yogurt every few days and bread! Free Spirit Dave gave us a fabulous recipe that provided a loaf of bread one night and the second half became pizza dough last night! And our lettuce has held up beautifully so we have had lovely salads. Time together. Our watch system is working really well. We are getting 4-5 hours of sleep during nighttime watches and a nap in the day and best of all, early evenings are time to just enjoy this adventure together!

Weather. We are in t-shirts and shorts during the day, sweaters at night. The water is getting warmer every day!

Here’s a few notes to catch up with folks: Cliff; that’s hilarious that PH Record is going to publish the picture of us all on Espiritu Santo. We’ll look forward to seeing a copy. Send a note and let us know how it came out. Also, you’re right, the moon is most amazing right now surrounded by gazillions of miles of water. The horizon is amazing and the moon is so bright you can almost read by it. (Comment from Ann: The moon, which is actually full tonight, was still setting in all of its splendor as the sun started rising behind me on my shift last night. Not something you get to see everyday!)

Sue; glad to hear Ann’s sewing machine is getting a work-out. Ann is channeling good thoughts toward Missy’s project. On board before we left Ann made a sail cover for the storm jib so we can leave it on deck and it won’t be in the way. I imagine the sewing machine will come out again soon as the sun is getting so intense it would be nice to have a bimini (cockpit cover). We have some Sunbrella fabric and there’s already a zipper on the dodger where the thing is supposed to attach.

Elan; thanks for the info on the trades. We’re in a transition zone and I am looking forward to more solid wind. It’s been mostly less than 10 knots which is why we’re only putting in 90-100 miles per day right now. Also makes night watches more of a challenge because the wind vane won’t steer when it gets really light. Last night I steered most of my watch from 2100 to 0300. I would just aim the boat, tighten down the helm brake, close my eyes and then wake up when my forehead hit the wheel as I nodded off. Recheck helm and repeat. Will be nice when Wilson can just steer all night, but we need solid 7 knots of wind to do that. Good advice on 120 degrees. We’re heading down the rhumb line for now with 128 degrees being our “do not pass” line. Somewhere as we approach 120 we’ll start to look for a “hole” in the ITCZ, duck through and try to dodge bad weather.

Joan: See, it is not Ann who is falling asleep on watch! (This is obviously by Ann.) I spend my watches reading iBooks (just finished The Paris Wife – good read) or playing Scrabble. Not as fun as Words with Friends but keeps me entertained. I have even resorted to Angry Birds a time or two. Luckily I was able to use the iPod and music to keep me awake during my watch last night. Nothing like dancing when no one can see you! (Maybe this is the fishing problem?!) Night Watches: As you probably have deduced, we are not sticking to the 3 hours on, 3 hours off watch system that we originally intended. It works great to go as long as you are awake and then wake the co-captain (see how I snuck that in!) to change shifts. Bob is particularly good about taking longer shifts when the air is light and I really appreciate it.

Jerry; Hmm, a wind dance. We’re already doing a “fish dance”. Problem is that’s not working, so I’m not sure if we’ll do any better with a wind dance, although it IS fun to watch. Ann’s getting quite creative.

For all; thanks again for following us. Also, I have a request. I forgot to research the history behind “Shellbacks” clearing across the equator. Since we’re both Shellbacks at this point, we need to know what ceremony we should perform. Any thoughts/research would be helpful, but please keep it to a paragraph so our email doesn’t get bombed by a long file. I know there’s hazing rituals out there that we need to uphold.

Position: 14 degrees, 57 minutes North; 111 degrees 57 minutes West

Our friend the Red Footed Booby

We had a pretty slow night. Not much wind and it’s 1000 and still only 3-6 knots (3 right now and we’re only going about 2.5 knots. At one point last night the knotmeter read; “0.00”. Now that’s slow! We’re towing a water generator at night and it was hanging straight down. The water gen is essentially a propeller and short shaft on a very stiff rope. Towed behind the boat, it spins a generator that makes electricity. We don’t use it during the day since the solar panels are working then and it interferes with fishing, but at night it keeps the batteries charged while we’re using the shortwave and nav lights. Between the solar panels and water gen, we haven’t had to turn on the engine to charge batteries at all this trip. In fact, we have only turned it on once for an hour to avoid a commercial fishing boat who was determined to pass way too close. The wind was very light, so I opted for the conservative approach of making a 90 degree course change to keep way away. As always I tried to raise him on the radio and as always, they ignore the calls.

(A note since I originally wrote this in the morning. It’s now around 1600, there wind stayed low to non-existent all day so sometime after lunch we decided to put up the spinnaker. Now Charisma is playing “America’s Cup Yacht”. With the spinnaker, we’re a accelerating such that the apparent wind moves 30 degrees forward in just a few seconds as the chute fills and rapidly pulls Charisma forward. We’re actually doing 4.5 knots boat speed on 5 knots apparent wind. Not bad.

So, about last night and the Booby Havoc. These are very silly birds. There are a bunch of them around, probably nesting on some islands that are a hundred miles north of us. Sooo…they are pretty tired from all that flying and every single one that flies by comes over to check us out; “oh look a nice tall mast to land on!” Of course the mast is swinging through a huge arc, being 50 some feet off the deck of a rolling boat, so Booby Havoc! As they try to land on the mast they realize their mistake and either get hit by the mast/wind vane or veer off at the last second. Two have hit the vane. The first bent it so it wasn’t usable and remarkably the second one bent it back the other way enough so that it works again most of the time now. One of the more clever boobies figured out that the spreaders were a safe alternative and spent the night perched there. I prefer that perch to damaged masthead gear although it gives a new meaning to the concept of “poopdeck” after a Booby has sat above the deck, for four or five hours.

Last night by chance I discovered a Booby Deterrence System. It only works at night but that’s when they want to roost on the mast. Last night, I brought out our new, powerful searchlight to help in a project. As I was coming up into the cockpit I saw a Booby flying just above the backstay trying to decide whether there was a good place to land. Instinctively (hunter that I am) I hoisted the spotlight and pulled the trigger. The result was instant Booby Madness. The light blinded and confused him leading him to hit the backstay whereupon he “stalled”. Barely recovering from the stall, he crash-landed right in the cockpit sliding across the seat and coming to rest against the scuppers…just a foot and a half from a startled Ann Adams who was innocently steering the boat, minding her own business. The Booby just sat there looking at Ann (and she him wondering what had just fallen from the sky mere inches from her head in the middle of the Pacific Ocean). He was looking dazed, confused and perhaps more than a bit embarrassed. For my part, I was whooping with joy having found a secret weapon in my quest to rid Charisma of marauding Boobies. We took a picture (probably further confusing Mr Booby with the flash) so we could prove this and finally the Booby leapt for his freedom splashing down like a plane in a carrier landing gone bad. I am quite sure he won’t be back.

In the meantime, armed with my new weapon I scan the night sky for incoming Boobies and when they are silly enough to attempt a night landing on the top of my mast I blast them with the blinding light from the spotlight that my sister Sue got me for my birthday. Thanks Sue. The unintended use of your gift has so far saved us from further Booby induced damage.

Position: 15 degrees, 27 minutes North; 111 degrees, 14 minutes West

Blue Water Cruising!

Wing and Wing, downwind.

Beautiful conditions today. The sea is so blue it’s actually almost purple the color is so strong. Not too much to report so I’ll leave this one short since I’m tired and have to go on watch (2100 to 0100 or so). Tomorrow we’ll write some thoughts in the afternoon when we have more energy (Ann’s almost in her bunk right now, having just finished the dishes from dinner)

So, see you all tomorrow!

Position: 16 degrees, 25 minutes North; 110 degrees 04 minutes West

The highlight of our day today (simple pleasures when at sea) was the first salt water showers of the trip. It got warm enough that it was refreshing. Ann shrieked with what sounded like joy. I think. Maybe. Anyway, you put the canvas bucket (with rope attached) over the side, pull up a bucket full of water and dump it on your head. Then lather up and do the same thing a second and maybe third time. Then, we get to rinse off with warm, fresh water from our camp shower, which had been heating in the sun. Felt great!

Other than that, a pretty slow day. Only 98 miles in the last 24 hours. We’re still waiting for the wind to fill in. Tonight is not looking very promising either. Right now we have about 4 knots of wind, so we’re not going anywhere very fast. Same as last night. At least the view is good 😉

By the way, thanks everyone for your comments. It’s one of the highlights of our evening to read them out loud after dinner.

Position: 17 degrees, 33 minutes North; 108 degrees, 52 minutes West Hopefully, anyway. This morning the wind backed as did t he seas. Both are now coming from the WNW, so we’re now reaching instead of sailing close hauled. We’re much more comfortable as we’re not slamming into the waves. The wind has been lighter today (looks like we only made 109 miles), but we’re hoping as we get further out it will strengthen soon and back some more so we’ll be going “downhill”.

Ann found a flying fish on board this morning and I found a couple squid all of which were no doubt evading predators just to find themselves in a more precarious position on board Charisma.

Booby havoc ensued this afternoon when a Booby tried to land on the wind vane. We didn’t personally see the disaster, but they have been “eyeing” the masthead for some time now. The wind vane is now bent and useless and there is some bird poop on the deck. I’ll leave the rest to the imagination. Fortunately, said bird just broke the vane and not the wind instruments which are on a separate bar and still work fine. No news on how the Booby is doing.

A note to our friend Dave Nieuwstad on S/V Free Spirit who arrived back in La Cruz just in time for us to leave. Dave: Thanks again so much for the nice bottle of wine (which we are saving for when we catch a fish). Also, Ann made bread from your recipe last night and it came out terrific!

From Ann- I know that Sue (Bob’s sister) will be pleased to know that the Admiral on Charisma has specific rules about claiming “birth month”. According to the Admiral (yes, I know the Admiral very well), if you do not claim “birth month” on the 1st of the month you have missed the opportunity to do so. Sorry Bob, you will just have to settle for celebrating your special day only today out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean! I am sure your family is singing the Swedish birthday song anyway. We celebrated with a yummy pasta dinner (not made by Bob) and those delicious Ginger Spice Cookies!

And in answer to Sue’s question on our last blog, I love the night watches! In fact, I let the birthday boy have a full 8 hours of sleep last night. The moon was glorious, not quite full but shedding lots of light. When the moon finally set at about 5am I was treated to a very special sight. Originally I was concerned and thought that Charisma was passing gas until I realized we were going through a large school of jelly fish. Phosphorescent bubbles were popping up from the stern of Charisma. They were actually all around us. Looked like popping bubbles!