Tsunami Alert!

That got our attention!  We’re back on Charisma after a wonderful holiday back in the States with Family and Friends.  Today, we were sitting on the boat in the Town Basin at Whangarie and a friend came over and knocked on the hull:  “Ahoy Charisma!”  We shouted back and climbed the companionway ladder to say hi and saw Tom from “Tanga” who said that there was a huge earthquake in/around Vanuatu (an 8.0 as of this writing although it will likely get downgraded over time) and there’s a tsunami alert for most of the South Pacific.  Wow, talk about getting our attention.  After a bit of chat, we went back down below straight to the internet and found….mixed results.  NOAA cancelled the alert, but the local Civil Defense authorities didn’t.  Anyway, long story short, as we’re sitting here an hour after it was supposed to hit New Zealand, we’re still floating without a care.

Got us back into the swing of cruising though.  So, with this blog, hopefully we’ll kick back into the habit of charting out what we’re doing and where we’re going.
Tomorrow, we go out “on the hard”.  Not our favorite thing.  Basically we’re getting hauled out in a local boatyard to get the bottom painted with antifouling paint.  You have to do this at least once every other year or so to keep the crud from growing on the bottom of the boat.  That’s the main reason we’re hauling, but we spent much of this afternoon planning the other projects we’re going to work on while we’re in the boat yard.  Everything from pulling all the anchor chain out onto the ground for inspection, to varnishing all the woodwork (a much bigger task than it sounds-this alone will be a week or more of solid work), to sewing some new covers for worn out cushions a version-2 of our bimini, etc.  Not the least project (which is on Ann’s list) is cleaning and waxing the hull!

 

So, at least two weeks of work where we’ll be living on Charisma in the boat yard.  Not the most fun thing since to leave the boat, you basically climb down a six foot ladder, but hey, this is an adventure.  We’re going to make it fun.  Ann already did some planning and announced that we will be eating meals in the lovely park next door to the marina.  Trees, views onto the river, grass and picnic tables.  I announced that we’ll be eating pizza in town at least two nights a week.  Beer, pizza, Rugby on the TV.  So, we’ll have some entertainment.  Stay tuned.  I’m still going to write up what went right during the last year and what we could do better; a perspective of our sailing experience over the last year.  I just have to get back into the writing groove and get inspired a little.  Is anybody reading this, and/or interesting in that?  Please let me know.

Getting Ready to Head Home For The Holidays

Our New Zealand ride

The view from one of the hikes we've done. This is near Cape Bream. Across the bay to the right is Marsden Cove.

We’re winding down this season.  Doing some boat work, getting things set for us to leave for the States for six weeks.  Then we’ll be back for another year of cruising, probably up into the Fijiian Archipeligo.

In the mean time, we’ve been touring in the car we bought and doing some hiking.  We’ll do a lot more of both in February when we’re back and the weather’s better.  Right now it’s late Spring down here and it’s been a bit rainy/cloudy.

Today we closed with Doyle sails on new sails for Charisma.  She’ll be right happy to have new clothes.  The old sails were 25 years old, way past due as the sailcloth and stitching deteriorate in the sun and we can no longer trust our lives to sails of that age on the open ocean.  If we were still in SF Bay, no worries-but out here you have to have some confidence that the sails can routinely withstand 40 knots of wind or more.  We already had a mainsail seam blow out and were lucky we didn’t need it to finish that leg.

So, we’re doing due diligence on cleaning up Charisma-checking that the bilge pump is working well, turning off the propane, closing the through hulls,  turning off the big electrical draws (like the fridge) and in general making ready to leave.  We have two more days, then Sunday we’re heading to Aukland for a couple days before flying out on the 12th.  Looking forward to seeing everyone back home.

We’ll be posting from time to time including a “what worked and what didn’t” for those who will be following in our footsteps.  Then in February we’ll get cranking back up again.

So, have a great holiday and new year and thanks very much to those of you who have been following our blog and commenting.  We’re having fun and we hope you have been too!

Woohoo We’re in Whangerie!

Gets your heart going to see a bridge that isn't on the charts. This one is being built across the river. We had to go through a very skinny pass between the unfinished sections.

Made it! At the guest dock at Whangarei Town Basin

We got a pile mooring for the first week, then we're moving to a dock.

Not a bad view from our mooring.

Yay! We’re finally here. Gnarly time getting here. 30 knot winds, made just getting out of our slip in Marsden an adventure. Also we’re waaay upriver now. The last bit to get here the water depth went as low as 9 feet and that was at high tide. They are also building a new bridge that will eventually be a drawbridge, but for now it was a very narrow slot between two half bridges that we had to thread through. But we’re here!

Tomorrow, we move from our nice “guest berth” in from of the marina office, down about 150 yards to a “piling mooring”. In other words we will be tied between two pilings in a line with other boats along the bank of the river. The only way off the boat will be by dinghy. The good news is the dinghy dock is only about 30 yards away and our car is parked just up from that. But it will be a new adventure.

In Marsden Cove

Left Tutukaka this morning for a little bay just inside Cape Breem (can’t remember it’s name), but after two tries in 20 plus knots of wind we couldn’t get the anchor to set. First failure ever! So we went another 3 miles to Marsden Cove and are snug in a slip for the night (with showers!).

Nice day, sailed all the way, about 25 miles, in 20 knots on the nose. Really nice sailing. Still pinching ourselves that we’re sailing down the coast of New Zealnd.

We might stay another day, but then we have about 7 miles up river to Whangerie where we’ll stay a while.

Tutukaka

Moonrise as seen from Charisma

We’re sitting here looking at a beautiful, almost full moon, rise over the cliff on the other side of this little cove. The horizontal orange streaks of sunset are fading into the blue-soon to be indigo-of night. So peaceful.

Aretha is singing in the background and we just finished a grilled steak and sautéed mushroom dinner. Not bad.

I’m now seeing the glistening, glittering, silver stripe of moonlight reflecting off the water behind us.

The Gannets are diving all around us and Ann is searching the water for sight of a blue penguin. No sighting yet, but we’ll let you know. She has seen a Kiwi, so she’s one up on me so far (not including card games in which she is two up).

Tomorrow-a little cove just out side of Marsden, then up river to Whangerie on Thursday. That’s where we’ll stay until April. In the mean time, home for the holidays, then back to NZ for some boat work and then land cruising.

Fangamoomoo!

New Zealand customs don't mess around. But they were very nice.

Well, that’s the phonetic pronunciation for where we are. From here we go to Tootoocaca. OK, the actual spellings are; Whangamumu and Tutukaka.

Almost as amazing is the fact that my niece Missy has been to all these places before us! When I told Ann that Missy posted on the blog and asked what her first sentence was, Ann responded; “When I was in…”. Ding, ding, ding, correct! Missy, you’re a true world traveller.

So, we left Opua today at 1130. Sad to be gone, it was such a wonderful place. But we’ll look forward to coming back in April as we head up towards Fiji. We sailed through the Bay of Islands and then out into the Pacific and around Cape Brett, then south to Whangamumu. Got in here around 1700. Dropped anchor in a lovely bay that looks somewhat like we’re in a lake in the middle of Petaluma. There are beautiful green hills all around us, some with sheep and cows on them.

We also had a surprise greeting from some five black clad folks (head to toe, including helmets) in a “Protector” (a type of very high speed motorboat). Turns out they were Customs officials. We got interrogated. Very friendly, but they are seriously looking for something/someone as the questions were very pointed and in several cases sneaky. Ann asked if she could take a picture of them and to my surprise, they said OK, so we’ll get that up in a few days. It had to do with the boat that drove up on the reef in Tonga with a bunch of cocaine and a dead body. We’re guessing they are looking for whomever was supposed to meet that boat.

Nice Day, Great Walk

The hike started with a ferry boat ride across the bay

You know you're hiking in New Zealand when...

Giant Ferns...

Well tended trails...

A boardwalk over the swampy bits...

 

And after a six mile hike, the reward....!

Finally we had some sun today. We suspended all boat work and went for a walk. Not just any walk. A 6 miler. We took the ferry boat from Opua to Okiato (across the bay a ways). We asked the ferry pilot how far to Russell, which is the little town on that side of the bay. His eyes got a little big and he said; “Oh mate, that’s about 9 kilometers!”. We said that was OK, we were out for a good walk.

He gave us a little map that made all the difference. It showed the trail system and we had a delightful walk (trek) across country. The path went through trees, hills and the most memorable parts were on a walkway built over the swampy land across the edges of some of the bays along the way. We were literally walking across the mangroves and saw all the wildlife of the area. At one point Ann even saw a Kiwi bird.

We didn’t get into Russell until about 5 PM, so we stopped at a cute little spot for pizza and beer before continuing the journey. Once suitably fortified, we went looking for the ferry from Russell to Pahia. Found it and after a short wait crossed another bay over to Pahia where we called a country taxi for the ride back to Opua. It’s about another 2 hour walk and we were running out of both light and strength. Having been on the boat so long, the 6 mile walk was about all we had in us for the day (full disclosure: actually Ann went for a morning walk with one of her friends and they were gone about an hour so I’m guessing they put in a couple more miles for the day) so the taxi looked pretty good!

A fun day. We’ll leave this nice area on Monday, weather permitting, for Whangerie. The Black Dogs have already taken our car there, so it will be waiting for us there.

New Neighbors

One of the things that is so fun about this cruising life is meeting so many great people. Tonight was typical. We went up to the cruisers club for a cocktail and to just see who was there. But once there we ran into about twenty of our good friends and three hours later finally stepped back outside with big smiles on our faces from the camaraderie of it all. So fun!

Then on the way back to Charisma ran into several other friends who have been out touring for a few days and had a nice chat on the dock with them.

Then…upon getting back to Charisma we found we had new neighbors. A new boat pulled in next to us and we’re sitting in our respective cockpits-in the dark-chatting about who we are, where we’ve been, recommendations on places to go, etc, etc. Delightful people and we haven’t even seen them yet. Just heard them. In the dark. Across the water between our two boats. We just know their names; Don and Priscilla.

This is the same reason it takes Ann about two hours to go up to the bathroom (or take a shower). She runs into folks we know, gets into a conversation (“where have you been, what have you been doing…”) and two hours later she’s back.

Cruising and making great friends. We’re loving it.

Thanksgiving

Yup, we just had our Thanksgiving dinner, since we’re a day ahead of you all. A really nice turkey and fixins dinner at the Opua Cruisers Club. We enjoyed good food, with good friends in a nice spot overlooking the marina. Would be nice to be home with family, but this comes a close second.

So happy turkey day to everybody! Enjoy.

New Photos

I’ve spent much of today uploading photos.  The blog has new photos that go back to August 5th!  That’s how long it’s been since we had a reliable internet connection that would upload photos.  Wow.

So, the usual drill.  For many of your browsers you will need to empty your cache/delete the history or the pictures may not show up.  For this you go up to your menu, open the “History” menu and click on “Clear History” which is probably the last item on the menu.

Hope you all enjoy.  Almost four months of photos.  Whew, good thing it’s now cocktail hour  😉