Reef Dive!

So, we finally got to use our new dive certifications.  This morning (leaving at 0630-bleah) we took a dive boat and went 20 miles off Vanua Levi (the north island of Fiji) to a reef called Namena.  It’s a designated marine sanctuary, so lots of good, healthy coral and abundant sea life.

We moved Charisma yesterday from Savusavu, about 6 miles down the bay out near the coast to the Cousteau Resort where we anchored for the night.

Up at 0630 and headed out.  I’ll let the pictures tell the story, but suffice to say we had an awesome time.  The Cousteau Resort dive team did a fantastic job.  They were very professional and fun.  On the way back they spotted a whale and headed over to it.  I don’t have pictures-but it was sleeping until we coasted up to it.  Then it raised its head to look at us and we saw the blunt nose of a sperm whale (I’m pretty sure).  It then eased on back in the water and slid under waving its tale at us as it disappeared into the deep.

Many thanks to Kathy at Waitui Dive for arranging a great dive for us.  I’ve said before, and we will again, she’s the person to call at Waitui Marina when you go to Savusavu.

Anchored off Cousteau Resort. $1000/night for the resort and I'm glad to say we have a better view for free!

Had my coffee and ready to rock.

Heading out. Twin Suzuki 250s made short work of the 20 mile ride. Nice flat condtions didn't hurt.

Ann did a great job getting down to 80 feet where we spent most of the dive.

We love the delicate Fan Coral.

The colors are amazing.

Sting Ray! This one was the biggest I've ever seen. It was easily 3 feet across.

Can you find the turtle in this picture? You may have to click to enlarge it.

Sushi! (actually dogtooth tuna. Very yummy)

Some sharkies came over to check us out.

Ann pretending she's a fish. "Hey wait for me guys!"

And of course if there's an arch, we must swim through it!

 

Updates

I’ve updated pictures back to June 28.  As always, don’t forget that to view them you will have to first clear your brower’s History/Cache or it will just show the “old” pages without the new pictures.

Enjoy.

Hydro-Gen Repair

OK, for you boat geeks here’s a story about a repair of our hydro-generator.  It’s the thingy that we tow behind the boat that generates electricity to augment our solar panel and keep us from having to turn on the engine to charge the batteries.

It all came apart allright. The trick was getting it back together again!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t honestly think I would be able to repair this thing.  I know nothing about even how to open the darn thing up.  The company, Ferris Hamilton makes an OK product but my two major complaints are: they have terrible documentation-nothing on how to repair problems and the build quality is mediocre at best.  After only two years, this thing looks like it’s twenty years old.  It’s incredibly rusty-they used minimal paint to coat it which seems pound foolish for a product destined for a marine environment.  I’m going to have to do a proper paint job when we’re back in NZ later this year.

 

OK, with that said, the thing has been really useful in terms of helping to maintain our battery charge while underway.  It tows a propeller behind about fify feet of torque rope in the water behind Charisma that spins a generator that is connected into the batteries.  Simple and it allows us to run stuff that we normally couldn’t if it’s cloudy and the solar panels are not charging.  But-the generator started turning “hard” a while back and the last passage it just plain almost didn’t turn and make a huge racket.  I likened it to a British sports car in low gear.  Lots of grinding noise.

 

I originally thought I would take it to an alternator shop for repair, but several boats here in Savusavu reported such terrible experiences with the local alternator repair guy I decided I would give it a try.  If it didn’t work, the thing is heavy enough it would make a great dinghy anchor!

 

The first step in any project is always unscrew the screws.  😉  There were six of them on the face of the unit.  Now remember, Ferris Hamilton has zero documentation on this unit so I had no clue what four of them did.  Two held the bracket on, so these came first.  Two don’t seem to do anything and the final two actually hold the face plate to the whole thing on.  The problem is everything is held on (as it turns out) by the bearings inside the beast that are pressed onto the shaft AND the inside of the face plate.  Ouch.  The solution:  put the bracket back on and hit it with a hammer.  The face plate came off and the whole thing was now accessible.

 

Turns out the problem was; one of the four large magnets inside the main housing had broken loose.  Instead of “sticking” to the housing, it was “sticking” to the armature-which is supposed to freely rotate inside the case.  Hence the really bad noise.

 

I cleaned the housing, and the magnet so I could glue them (hopefully) back together and then cleaned up the whatchmacallit that the brushes rub on.  They were kinda dirty too. Then I mixed up some epoxy, glued the large magnet back in and crossed my fingers. Actually, I was being very precise about this part.  The armature and the magnets have very tight tolerances and if I didn’t glue the magnet back in right it would rub on the armature and voila, a new dinghy anchor would be born!

 

After sitting overnight to allow the epoxy to dry, I reassembled the whole thing.  The other thing I did was add some dielectric grease to some of the screws and the bracket.  The factory didn’t do this and there was some electrolysis from different metals contacting each other.  They should know better!  I also sealed the case with silicone to keep saltwater out.  The big trick was getting the bearings inside to reseat properly so I could screw the thing back together.  But-somehow it came together and I tested it with my voltmeter.  Voltage!  It’s also running quieter and more smoothly than it has in a while so I’m guessing this has been in “breakdown” mode for a while.

 

Oh and the other “I never would have figured this out before” item.  There’s a last bit that completes the whole thing.  You have to put a brass bushing back on the stainless steel shaft that the torque rope screws onto.  This brass piece is pressed on (in my case a hammer is my tool of convenience-this being a boat and not a machine shop).  The problem is there are two set screws that hold it on and this piece is what attaches to the torque rope that spins the whole deal.  There is no way to align the set screws well enough to screw them through the brass bushing into the steel shaft when you reassemble the thing.  After much head scratching I finally got out my die and tap set and re-threaded the whole thing.  It worked.  The set screws went in.

 

There’s something about being in-essentially-the middle of nowhere where either you do it or no-one does, that brings out the solutions.  I never would have gotten this far on the project back “in the world”, but would have taken it to experts to fix.  None here?  OK, I guess I’ll have to do it myself.  Chalk up another project I’ve never done before.
To paraphrase Mark McClellan from Blue Rodeo has said; “Many of us have now joined the Society of Reluctant Tropical Diesel Mechanics” for lack of more expertise out here in the wilderness.

Land Cruising Day

We’re getting ready to leave Savusavu for more island hopping and wanted to see more of the land side of the north island before we go.  We had met a taxi driver a month ago who offered to take us on an “island tour”.  He seemed nice and we kept his phone number, so we gave him a call.  Was he still interested?  You betcha.  It was Sunday, but that’s just how our schedule worked (one tip-everything’s closed on Sunday so if you want to do more than just see the island, do the tour on another day).  Sunday meant none of the island towns would be open, but we wanted to just see what the island looked like so it worked out well.

Heading out of town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fiji north island is a beautiful island. Most of it is jungle, palms and reef with occasional villages and a couple towns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the tour we stopped by this very interesting resort owned by a Italian/Aussie and his Fijian wife.

Turns out Luigi was in construction in Aussie and came here to retire. He couldn't help himself and just kept building. The upshot is this nice little resort sitting along the island's reef.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luigi, Margaret and Bella the dog

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of jungle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's only one paved road, the rest are dirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the way, we visited "Heaven". It's a nice place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view from "Heaven"

 

 

 

 

 

 

It turned out to be a great day.  We left Savusavu in the morning and spent the entire day driving around.  We went north up the “Hibiscus Highway”.  Mahendra, our driver knew a lot of hidden drives into some of the private backroads, so we saw some areas that normally would not have been available-certainly not if we had driven ourselves.  I’ll let some of the pictures tell the story of the day.

 

A nice ending to the day occurred around 4PM when we drove down a sketchy looking and very steep dirt road to “the waterfall”.  As many readers know, there are “waterfalls” everywhere that are locally famous, but it turned out this one was delightful!  Mahendra drove down the very steep dirt road until we saw a young woman in traditional garb standing by the side of the road.  He pulled over and introduced us.  She was to be our guide up to the waterfall.  So, off we went.  A bonus of the 20 minute hike to the falls was that we got to see what Kava looks like in its natural state.  The village she belonged to grew kava and it was fun to now be able to identifiy it.

The short hike in to the waterfall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a while we summited a small hill and started going down into the grotto where the waterfall formed a pond.  It was gorgeous!  And well timed.  We were hot and tired.  A jump in the pond below the waterfall and a swim over to the falls were exactly what we needed.  Wonderful!

A lovely little spot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the pay off!

 

 

 

 

 

 

So-to our cruiser friends who might be coming this way, here’s a great tip.  If you want to tour the island-anywhere-call Mahendra.  He’s a great guy and we highly recommend him.  He even took us back to his house where we met his wife and almost met their granddaughter (she was asleep).  His phone number in Savusavu is:  926-1632.  Call him-you will have fun.

Enroute Fulunga

We finally left Savusavu today. Repairs done and hopefully everything, especially the engine, holds together (cross fingers, knock wood).

We left at 1215 on the end of some squally weather, but the gribs said it would be clearing up. I was a bit worried as we rounded the point into the ocean and started to slam into some good size waves and the wind was almost 20 knots on the nose. But, as advertised, the wind veered and the sea laid down and now (after dinner of Bok Choy, rice and Mahi) we are motor sailing in about 6 knots of breeze and fairly calm sea. I’d rather have the engine off, but we have to time the passage to get to the pass at Fulunga right at 1000 Saturday, so for now we’re booking some miles. 1000 is on the rising tide and also the time of day with good light so we can see the coral reefs. This place is very remote and not well charted. In fact few were allowed to visit before just a couple years ago.

So…we’re about 30 miles out of Savusavu, with 150 to go. Stars are out and we’re waiting for the moon to come up. There are no clouds for a change. Here’s hoping for a nice night.

I LOVE Tuna!

…by Ann.

Ever since the 2010 Baja Ha Ha where we caught and filleted tuna in the cockpit (thank you Geoff Byrne) I have been craving more fresh tuna. We have caught many mahi mahi since then, but … I LOVE tuna. I love tuna from the can even. But I really love fresh tuna. And we have been carrying three packages of seaweed wrappers just in case we catch a tuna.

I am not just fixated on tuna today without reason. Monday our friends from Lightspeed, Dave and Kathy, arrived in Fiji. We last saw them in the Marquesas and have followed their blog so we were delighted to reconnect with them. And like Wrigley’s used to say…double the fun…they caught three huge tuna on their way into Savusavu! Well done! So the other day they had us over to lunch to catch up and eat TUNA! Sushi and sashimi!

Wow, so fun to catch up and so great to get such a treat. And do you know why I love cruisers? They gave us some tuna to take home! Bob just made seared tuna for dinner. Did I tell you I LOVE tuna. It was delicious!

We are dropping our new fishing lines in the water as soon as we head to Fuluga tomorrow! Wish us luck!

We are leaving Savusavu after almost four weeks. We, mostly Bob, have repaired very important systems and we are ready to go. I, meanwhile have cleaned and polished and repaired sails. The ugly side of cruising. Payment for the fun to come!

But before we depart I want to send out two important thoughts to incoming cruisers.

Firstly, beware of where you buy carved souvenirs. Our friends had quite the problem getting some beautifully carved items into the US because the proper quarantine paperwork was not available. I even went back to the store where they purchased the items to see if I could get the necessary documentation. This is difficult to do after the purchase. So make sure you get actual quarantine cleared wood. The real quarantine stickers are about 2″ x 3″ and are yellow with official green writing on them. Other stickers are not good enough for customs.

Secondly, for cruisers still headed this way from New Zealand please don’t forget to provision with the three C’s- cheese, chocolate, and coffee. These can be found in Fiji but are very expensive. I was prepared for the coffee but am heart broken that I did not know about the chocolate and cheese. I thought cheese was expensive in New Zealand and so passed on paying $8 for a large brick of cheese; it is $22 FJ ($11 US) for half that size. Ouch. And our favorite candy bar is $18 FJ vs. $2 New Zealand. In US that would be $9 vs. $1.80.

Lesson learned.. Stock your “C” foods!

Out Of The Darkness Came A Blinding Light!

It was an angel.

A Bright Angel!

Ann and I were sitting in the cockpit after dinner, marveling at the spooky weather tonight-the solstice driven full moon weaving in and out of the clouds in between the rain squalls driving down though the anchorage-when we heard an engine and saw a bright light slashing through the darkness. Both were growing closer and Ann exclaimed: “Is that light coming towards us”? “Nah” being my usual grumpy response (I take after my Dad). But just a moment later it became obvious we were about to be visited by someone-or something-out on this wild, blustery night.

Just then we heard the cry of an angel: “Ahoy Charisma”! It was Linda and Bob, and they were bearing gifts. ICE CREAM! Homemade ice cream from our favorite local spot. In fact a Coffee ice cream for Ann and a Ginger for me. Our favorites, that only our angels could know!

Wow! Just wow.

This is what we like about cruising.

(Thanks Guys)

P.S. Ann broke out the sewing machine today and did a proper repair on the staysail. The easiest part of this project was the sewing. However to do that meant emptying the locker where the sewing machine resides so we could get it out and hauled on deck. Hauling a hundred pounds or so of gear out of the vee-berth to get to the fabric, dig out the extension cord, thread…you get the idea. Everything is stored so carefully, it takes an hour to set up a ten minute project and another hour to put it all away. But the sail now has a proper repair with tanbark fabric, so it doesn’t look like Frankensail anymore.

Moonlight Paddleboarding

We,ll it’s 9PM and Ann just took off on her Paddleboard to terrorize, I mean visit, our neighbors.

Charisma and paddleboards in daylight

She slipped away into the moonlight about five minutes ago and I quickly lost sight of her, but just picked up a silhouette over by Bright Angel, about 150 meters behind us. I can even hear some faint talking.

I’m “manning” home base and listening for a big splash in which case I’ll get in the dinghy and do a pick up.

I’ve been one-upped! Oh well, I’ll do it next time when we’re out at some secluded anchorage.

You go, Ann

(by the way, after surprising several other boats, she has made it safely back without falling in the water. Nice!)

Getting Ready To Move On

It takes a while.

In the Saturday market. That's packaged Yagona (Kava) above Ann

You gotta love this sign (click the picture to make it bigger)

Back on Charisma, a closer view of the Yagona all packaged and ready for Sevusevu

Fueling by dinghy gets a little tedious...

...up the dock, across the street...

...it's about $5/US gallon...

Some of what we have to do is obvious, like “buy food and beer”, but there are also the time consuming things that you might not think of, like going to customs and getting our interim cruising plans blessed. You must check out of your first port in Fiji after which you only need check in via email or phone-but you still have to send a note once a week to let the authorities know where you are.

Also, just the act of fueling can take time. There is no easy to get to a fuel dock here. In fact there isn’t one. You want fuel? Jerry jugs. We made two trips today with two 5 gallon jugs each. 20 gallons. We had 10 in the tank and will add 10 more tomorrow plus a final run of 10 that we will tie on the deck for an emergency spare. Three hours of work for the equivalent of one fill up at a gas station back in California that would take about 5 minutes. Each run means going to shore in the dinghy, walking across the street to the gas station, jugs in hand. Filling the jugs, back to the dinghy, motor back to Charisma, haul the rather heavy jugs on deck and then pour them through a filter (to make sure this is no crud, dirt or water-I found a dead spider and some dirt) into the tank. Then, same, same all over again. Takes time and we still have to collect some regular gasoline as well for the dinghy before we can leave, since there will be NO services in the outer islands where we’re going.

Of course everyone here has to do this, I only bring this up for our friends who are reading this back in the States who wonder what we do with all our time. A lot of time we’re goofing and enjoying the life of leisure, but more often than you might thing we’re actually working to make this cruising thing happen.

We also picked up the laundry (a nice luxury when we’re in port is having it done). Ann takes it out of the bag on the foredeck, shakes it out and refolds it to ensure we have no “travelers” (read:cockroaches) to join in our adventure. She also teak oiled the cockpit and cleaned out the fridge to prepare it for the food we’ll buy at the Saturday market- which is when the freshest veggies and fruit come in.

And so it goes. We hope to leave Sunday and start the real Fiji adventure, versus the Fiji engine rebuilding adventure.

Floral Gardens

Some of the beauty of the gardens

Some of the plants didn't even look real

And it was HOT. Here's Linda from Chesapeake taking a break (and kitty)

Bob and Linda (our benefactors on the engine project) from Bright Angel on the walkway through the gardens

This gives a little impression of the enormity of the place. Behind me is the crown of the rainforest part of the gardens. This place was huge!

Our big event for today, now that we don’t have any major boat projects, was a tour of the Floral Gardens. Just 5K out of town an expat Aussie bought some land and developed it into the most fantastic haven for endangered palms. Its basically a rainforest with all this palms artfully planted within. OK, if this sounds geeky, it is and isn’t. He is actually protecting a number of species that are no longer found native in the wild. Many have been used up either in the face of resort development or gourmet food. We’ll certainly never eat hearts of palm again without ascertaining how it was sourced.

Anyway, this was a spectacular, beautiful and educational tour over a period of about three hours of walking through his park. And we enjoyed sharing the adventure with Bob and Linda from Bright Angel and Jim and Linda from Chesapeake.

There was no wind or cloud cover for most of today, so it was also smoking’ hot! We took a cab in the morning to get there, but walked the three or so miles back in the noonday heat and humidity. Wow, I needed a nap by the time we got back to Charisma.

So, light dinner and now we’re sitting in the cockpit enjoying a gentle evening breeze and the subtle glow of our citronella candles to hopefully keep the bugs at bay. So far so good.

We ran the engine again today. We now have a little more than two hours since the new parts and she’s still purring, so I have my fingers crossed that we caught the problem before it did too much more damage deeper in the engine (i.e. bearings, crankshaft, etc). That would be major no bueno. In the mean times she’s actually running more smoothly than I can ever remember.

Our plans are now to wrap up things here and get ready to leave to start exploring Fiji as early as Saturday, but more likely on Sunday. We’re thinking we might hire a cab to explore this island a bit more tomorrow and that will take at least half a day-probably more. Then, jerry jug some fuel on board (probably three trips in the dinghy times 10 gallons per trip), get fresh vegetables, some meat, beer and kava for Sevu Sevu (more on this ceremony in future blogs as we explore some of the outlying islands and villages-in the mean time you can google it to get some idea).