Where To Next?

By Ann:

Planning our trip and making it come true are not always identical. We were fortunate to have had a “South Island Consultation” with our friend Rand. Rand and Robin live in Whangarei currently but previously lived on the South Island. After a three hour download from Rand I was overwhelmed but excited.

Following Rand’s tips and advice we have had an amazing trip so far. Today we hit a location that I had no notes for. We knew we wanted to experience Arthur’s Pass on our way to Wanaka, but what happens in between?

Serendipity…that’s what happens. Or fate or just silliness! Tonight we are in Geraldine. Why? Because I had a very silly aunt named Geraldine and this is in her honor. Aunt Geri, you always were full of fun and today was no exception!

Our drive down from Arthur’s Pass was breathtaking with each vista more lovely than the previous. How is that possible? I don’t really question it, I just enjoy it!

Leaving our lovely cabin at Arthur's Pass behind.

View down the valley from Arthur's Pass

View up valley toward the pass.

View along the way.

We arrived in Geraldine and were pleased to find a delightful town filled with darling shops and welcoming people! We are at my favorite hostel thus far, The Rawhiti. Did I tell you they have free use if bikes here? Yay!

So within a half of an hour of arriving in Geraldine we were suited up and headed for the river path for mountain bikes. Well, we never really found a river that had water in it but we found a cathedral of Aspen trees and acres of farm land that entertained us on our 33 kilometer ride. Follow that up with a dinner with fresh salmon and you have serendipity in it’s perfect form!

Ann's best Geraldine pose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mountain biking through the trees...

...through the farms...

...and across the riverbed.

Next? Off to Twizel…stay tuned!

Knife Edge, Eco-Lodge and Alpine Hikes

OK, how do we bring all this together?  We didn’t have any internets yesterday so are going to have to combine a few days into one.

We started with an all day knife making class which was unique and amazing, but I’ll leave that to the end.

In the mean time-after the knife making we made our way to a fantastic eco-lodge named Beaconstone in Charleston on the west coast of NZ.  Long story on how we (Ann) found it, but it turned out fantastic.  For “hostel prices” we had a spectacular private cabin overlooking a river valley near the coast.  The best part about the place was the other people who were there.  Swiss, German, Scots and a Brit woman who was biking around the South Island on her own.  We all hung out in the common room and talked into the night.  Really fun and the big advantage of the “hostel circuit” over a simple motel (besides the price-which is about half or less).

Arrival at the eco-lodge, complete with rainbow.

Charisma time at the Beaconstone

Along with some blustery, rainy weather, we left Beaconstone and heading over the alpine pass toward the interior-getting away from the coast for the first time of this trip.

Between squalls leaving the coast...

A stormy night made from some dramatic surf action...

This one's for you Cliff McAuliffe. Kiwis have great road signs including this one to mark a railroad track hazard for bikes.

For Kelly Johnson-we just caught this one for Kelly's Creek while trying to capture the "one way" sign they use on narrow bridges.

We followed the rain (or did it follow us) over Arthur’s Pass, an alpine pass on the way from Greymouth to Christchurch.  We’re staying the night at the summit of the pass, once again in a hostel.  This time we’re in a small three bedroom house with two other couples-Kiwis and Germans.  And again, they are about our age and we’ve spent the evening having a delightful talk about…everything…all in front of the wood burning stove that is cranking out the BTU’s and drying out everything from socks to shirts to underwear from our respective hikes in the rainy, windy mountains today.  But despite the rain and wind, the hikes have bee spectacular!  What beauty!

The alpine parrot called Kea. This guy can be vicious but is also a bit of a pest and was almost wiped out by sheep farmers because they kill sheep!

The beginning of our very lovely hike in the rain.

Such pretty country...

Just above us was the glacier...but hard to see in the clouds.

We planned to have some rain, so brought the right gear so we could enjoy the day instead of worry about the cold/rain.

So…about that knife making.  I happened to see a brochure about a place on our route where you could learn to make a knife.  Anyone who knows me, knows that’s all I needed to hear.  We were booked.  It turned out to be really fun!  An all day course, you start with a piece of carbon steel 2 inches wide and 15 inches long and after heating it in a forge, banging the red hot metal on an anvil, grinding it, drilling it, adding brass and wood for the handle and then a lot of finishing, voila-you have a very good looking (and sharp) custom made knife.  And as we’ve found with most other things we’ve done, the most fun was the people who taught the class and they others in it.  Fantastic!

 

You start by heating up your piece of steel in the forge.

 

Then you beat the crap out of it on the anvil. It kinda starts looking like...a lump of metal after this-but it gets better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ann with our very patient instructor and master knife maker at about the halfway point.

...Progress...

The final product. I can report they are very sharp and people who have seen them are very impressed!

Our multi-national group of custom made knife owning maniacs. It's a bit amazing no one got hurt!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beautious!

That’s our new word for New Zealand.  Beautiful combined with Glorious!  So much fun.

We’re presently on the West Coast down from Nelson just north of a town called Punakaiki.  It’s so small you can drive past it in about 10 seconds.  We’re staying at a backpacker’s lodge called Te Nikau.  It’s a special place, but our “cabin” goes beyond special.  We’re in a tent-like cabin with a glass ceiling that lets us see the stars at night.  Last night we could see the Southern Cross and were awakened by the moon coming overhead around 1AM.  Glorious!

Our "cabin".

Inside the cabin. Just enough room to sit up in bed. Candles are on the wall.

Did I say there is no electricity anywhere near our cabin?  We have candles and that’s it.  Makes going to the bathroom (about 100 meters away down the trail an adventure (just ask Ann).

Try this at night. No lights. Just a headlamp.

This being right on the coast, the beach is just a ten minute walk down the trail.

Not a bad view...

Today we went for a tour of Hokitika Gorge.  Very beautiful.

One of the rivers that dump into the Hokitika Gorge

Suspension bridge over the gorge. The turquoise water is from glacial melt-silt coming down river.

Ann on the bridge chatting up a couple of Swiss guys...

Tomorrow more touring and then Saturday we’re going to spend the day Knife making!  Yup, there’s a guy here who does an all day class and at the end of the day you end up with a custom made Kiwi knife.  Great moment and we thought it would be fun.  We have our “tent” for two nights, but needed one more.  No worries (as they say here), the owner is giving us here home as she’s going to be gone on Friday night.  Just. Wow.

 

South Island Fun

So…we’re here and working our way south.  Thus far, lots of fun!

After Picton we headed just a little way south and west to Anakiwa along the Queen Charlotte Track.  We spent a nice night at the Anakiwa Lodge and went for a little hike the next day.  Well, actually not so little.  Ended up we walked 16 miles!!  Yipes, did we ever feel that.  The worst part was that the ice cream vendor was closed when we got back to the trailhead after 8 hours of hiking.

8:30 AM starting past the Outward Bound school at Anawika. Maybe that should have been a hint...

View of the hike on the way outbound in the morning...

On the way back in the afternoon. Stunning. You can see why the fern is the national plant.

After our grueling day hiking, we dragged our blistered feet 45 minutes southish along highway 6 to Havelock for a nice evening at Bluemoon Lodge, a backpackers lodge.  Rustic, but we had a shower (much needed) and laundry machines (also much needed).  Dinner was at the Mussel Pot-a well known spot featuring New Zealand Green Lipped Mussels.

Today, we went another hour or so south to Nelson.  Nelson is a nice little city and is really the final gateway for us to the real South Island.  From here south should for the most part recede into small towns and mostly wilderness travel.  We had a great time in Nelson though.  Fantastic lodging at the Almond House-a backpackers lodge, but we have a private room-for all of $60 US.  Great time.  And…Nelson is known for it’s local brewing so we made sure to stop at a local brew pub to sample their wares.

We made sure to sample most of the beers in the house along with a delicious pizza! These are Ann's samples.

After lunch we walked up the the “Center of New Zealand”  A bit of a pretentious sounding name, but apparently the spot is actually (more or less) the geographical center of the entire country.  Well, we had to do that one even though it is a bit of a grueling hike straight uphill.  Nice views of the surrounding countryside however.

Center of the world, er, um, New Zealand!

 

Made it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And one last “photo comment” by Ann

OK, I'll have to stay one step ahead of that one!

So…tomorrow-Punakaiki!  (hint, west coast, north of Greymouth)

See you then!

 

 

 

On The South Island!

Yay, we made it!

Our Ferry. Note the cars on the deck for perspective.

Entering the bowels of the ship...

Leaving the North Island behind...

The Ferry ride from north to south was about 4 hours.  Conditions were smooth and easy.  I bought Ann a deck of cards on the ship for Valentine’s day and let her win a game of “golf” on the trip over (OK, I also bought her a carved necklace in Picton where we are now).

We’re staying in another hostel.  This one is decidedly younger.  We’re easily the oldest folks here by about 30 years, but everyone’s really nice other than the fact that all the residents are the age of our children!

This life size chess set is right outside our room.

Last night we met up with Mark and Anne from Blue Rodeo who have been touring the South Island for the past month and are on their way back north.  We had a great time catching up over cocktails (they served us their new boat drink, the “Blue Rodeo”) and then dinner.

Today, we planned to do a quick “foot tour” of Picton and the go for a hike.  On our way to the trail head we stopped at a toilet and who should come out but…Mark and Anne!  They also planned a hike today, so we joined forces and had a delightful day hiking out to the “Snout”.  A long story about the name, but it’s thought to originate from a Mauri story about a worm….well, never mind, it’s hard to explain.  Anyway, we had a great five or so hour hike followed by ICE CREAM!  Thanks Mark and Anne for the great day-they are on the Ferry by now heading back up to the North Island.  So fun to continue to run into folks we met as far back as Mexico three years ago!

At the apex of the hike with Mark and Anne of Blue Rodeo

View from the "Snout" at the apex of a five hour hike.

Tomorrow we’ve moving southward to Anakiwa where Ann has planned some kayaking.

Passed Through Eutopia

Yup, that’s right.  Nice place.  Good coffee.

Not easy to get here...Long drive south.

Clean bathrooms too.  Maybe someday world peace as well!

And, onward south past the high plains of Tongariro we go…

Beautiful high plains of Tongariro

After six hours of driving south across the north island today, we’re staged within an hour of Wellington in a little town called Paraparaumu (go ahead and try to pronounce it-Ann did and the lady said, “Well, that’s one way to say it”).

We’re staying at a “Youth” hostel called Barnacles Seaside Inn.  When Ann told the proprietress that this was our first “youth” hostel she informed us, “Our clients these days are between the ages of 40 and 80”.   Hmmm.  Where are the “youth”?  Anyway, a good deal to keep the costs down.  For about $68 US, we get a room.  The bathroom is down the hall and the kitchen is downstairs.

Tomorrow we’ll get on the ferry across the Cook Strait from Wellington to Picton where our South Island road trip officially begins.

Our friends Mark and Anne from Blue Rodeo are just finishing their trip round the South Island and we’re going to meet up for dinner Friday night in Picton as they stage to go back across to the north.  Turns out we’re staying about a 15 minute walk from each other.  We’re looking forward to catching up and picking their brains for the best way to see the South Island.

Heading South

We’re now back in New Zealand and after a whole day to get organized we have hit the road for a month long trip around the South Island.  Last year we toured the North Island and were stunned by the beauty of the country.  Talk to any Kiwi though and all you hear is, “Wait until you see the South Island!”

So, we’re looking forward to some great adventures and now that our US vacation is over, we will get back to blogging for those of you who follow this site.

It’s Wednesday night and we’re one day out of Whangarei in the town of Hamilton.  We have tickets on the Ferry from Wellington to Picton (from the North Island to South Island) day after tomorrow (Friday).

Here’re a few pictures to get warmed up.  I’m testing a new lens I bought.  A 50-300mm telephoto.  It takes some nice pictures but I’m finding I need to be really careful on the long zoom because even with the vibration reduction (VR) system, any shaking results in blurred images.

Getting close to a full moon for our road trip.

A Pukeko posed for us in the town of Hamilton as we make our way south.

Where Have We Been?

We’re been taking a break!  We went home for the holidays.  We had a great, busy, hectic, two months back in Berkeley, California celebrating with family and friends.  Now we need a vacation (OK, just kidding…)

As a bonus, at the end of January as we were ready to make our way back to New Zealand, my sister Sue (and her husband Andy) were kind enough to host us in their timeshare in Maui, Hawaii along with my parents.  So, we had a great final family week together golfing, hiking, whale watching and more.  Here’s a few pics to catch us up on that trip.

My favorite yacht club. Ann and I had a wonderful lunch on the deck overlooking Lahaina harbor.

We got lucky with our whale watch trip. A mother was teaching her calf how to jump (breach).

With all the whales we've seen you'd think we'd get tired of this. NOT!

Message In A Bottle: Part Three

We finally had a chance to close the loop on our story of the bottle we dropped at the equator that “sailed” over 3000 miles and 15 months across the Pacific and landing in Fiji.  We met Vanni, sister of Boto and Esther who live in Fiji and found the bottle on the beach on their island.

If you have followed this blog since last year you know that Boto lives on an island in Fiji named Nairai and it was he who found our bottle in June, 2013.  He doesn’t have internet on Nairai, but was able to contact his sister Vanni via cell phone-who it turns out lives in San Rafael, California just 45 minutes by car from Berkeley where Ann and I stay with my parents when we’re in town.

It was Vanni who then contacted us via email and told us her brother had found the bottle we launched back in April, 2012 as we crossed the equator on our way from Mexico to New Zealand.  The original posts about finding the bottle and subsequently meeting Boto, their sister Esther and the rest of the family on Nairai, are on this site in the July and September 2013 archive.

So fast forward to this January and we finally got our schedules to mesh and had a chance to meet Vanni (and her husband, his cousin and another friend of the family) in person!  What a delight.  She made a Fijian dinner of curried chicken and cassava root and of course lots of Kava!

It was soooo great to meet her and close the loop on the “bottle” story…for now.  While the “bottle” story is complete, we now have a bunch of new friends with which we’ll no doubt make some new stories with in the years to come (not the least of which is our plan to visit Nairai again this year).

Here's Ann with Vanni

This is Vanni's sister Esther back in Nairai. It was fun to see how much they look and act alike even though Vanni has lived away for 15 years!

No Fijian gathering is complete without Kava and here it is in San Rafael, California.

Slides on Fiji Saturday the 18th

This Saturday, January 18th Ann and I will be doing a 90 minute slide show/talk about our trip to Fiji.  It’s at 6:30 PM at OCSC at the Berkeley Marina.  Go to www.ocscsailing.com for directions.

Hope to see you there!