A few facts and figures of what it takes to run this boat: -727 pumps on the air pump to inflate the dinghy (about 21 minutes) -20 pumps to flush the toilet -13 pumps on the water pump to fill the coffee pot -1 shot of rum to make a “Charisma” (but it’s a big shot) -2 times Ann has now gone snorkeling -2 times Ann has cooked dinner (if heating leftovers counts) OK, on this last one: Ann does the salads and dishes, so it’s a very fair trade off. -37 Pesos won by Ann when betting on the noise levels in the Cabo San Lucas Marina. -3 heads of lettuce that have spoiled since we didn’t eat them soon enough and don’t have room in the fridge for them -1314 The number of miles we’ve traveled since leaving Berkeley.

Ha, Ann likes numbers and is always remarking on special “number” days. So here’s one. We left Puerto Los Cabos (or Cabo San Jose as the town is called) around 0830 after taking on the first fuel since San Diego. At this point, we’re a couple miles off the coast heading North and unfortunately motoring because; guess what? The wind is right on the nose! One of these days, we’ll time our departure to favorable winds.

We’re got the watermaker running, making 7 gph. The water is so blue and so clear out here you can see the rays of the sun penetrating down a good 20 feet or so towards the depths. Shimmers and glimmers deep down like a perfect aquamarine gem.

Arrived at Bahia Los Frailes in the early afternoon and dropped anchor as the wind was building. Unfortunately it’s out the South, making this anchorage somewhat vulnerable since it’s completely open to the South. We’re OK as long as it doesn’t get above about 15 knots or so as the anchor is buried deep. Several other boats what have been traveling at the same pace as us decided to pass on staying here and wished us fair winds as they continued up North.

Taking a much needed swim to cool off at Bahia Los Frailes

Bahia Los Frailes: Went on a death march through the desert today. We were looking for a snorkeling spot in a marine preserve that’s purportedly “just over the hill” from where we’re anchored. It’s supposed to be about 2 miles, but that’s as the buzzard flies. In our case, this was too close to the truth. More of that later, in the mean time an update on our time here. Last night the most beautiful full moon rose out of the Sea of Cortez outside the anchorage and shone over our boat. One of the Canadian boats in the anchorage has a piper, so we were treated to a sundown bagpipe serenade including “Day is Done” , “Amazing Grace” and several other haunting tunes (everything on a bagpipe is haunting). Other highlights: We were being able to just jump into the warm water after we anchored. It was windy and rough, so we put out a safety line to hang onto, but so nice to enjoy that warm, clear water. I used the occasion to swim over our anchor and see that it was firmly dug into the sand. The chain just disappears into the sand. No sign of the anchor at all. A nice sunshower on the foredeck For Ann and I completed the day. So, back to the Death March to Pulmo Beach. We couldn’t find the road right away, so we all (three couples from three boats) decided it would be cool to climb the mountain right off the beach and work our way toward the purported dive spot. Not smart. Numerous scratches to legs and arms and lots of swearing later, we climbed a rock to look down in the valley and find the road. The good news is we found it. The bad news, it took us an hour of cactus whacking (the Mexican version of bushwacking) to get there. After at least an hour of hiking in the heat and cactus, one of our group discovered a dead and decomposed buzzard. Her comment: “Oh! A dead buzzard. This can’t be good!” But, ultimately we found the road and completed our hike over to the Marine Reserve at Cabo Pulmo/Pulmo Reef. Went snorkeling. Beautiful! It was Ann’s second time ever and she did great. We saw a ton of fish and had a great day. The hike back was much shorter now that we found the road. Only about two miles or so through the desert.

But, that wasn’t the end of the adventure. By the time we got back to the boat, there was a 20 knot wind and two foot waves pounding the beach. We hadn’t put the engine on the dinghy when we left, so we had to row the 200 yards straight into the waves and wind (in an inflatable), not to mention the harrowing launch through the surf to get back to the boat (which at this point was almost taking blue water over the bow as the waves were rolling down the anchorage). A challenge indeed, but with Ann directing our course we made it out to Charisma and the very much needed cold beer! It was truly like rowing on Berkeley Circle in the afternoon. The only tragedy was that Ann lost her lip balm which we saw floating away after some tricky maneuvering to get back on board Charisma with the large waves.

Later on the radio net we heard folks talking about the Epic Dive Adventure and asking; “Who were those crazy people launching the dinghies through the surf. There were also comments from one of our party regaling the anchorage about the wild bulls we saw along the way. Someone said; “weren’t you afraid the bulls would chase you?” I couldn’t help but jumping on the radio and noting that you just have to put your running shoes on. The guy on the radio said; “You CAN’T outrun a bull!” I came back; “You don’t need to outrun the bull, you just need to outrun your partner!” That’s when Ann slapped me.

Everyone can hear what you say on the radio.

We’re about 25 miles to the North of Cabo San Lucas on the Sea of Cortez side of Baja. Sailed, er, motor-sailed here today. Winds were 25-30 right on the nose (what else?), so a reefed main and engine were in order since we knew the “fleet” of Baja Ha Ha boats wouldn’t yet be disbursed enough to guarantee a slip if we didn’t get here early. Sure enough, about an hour after we got here, boats coming in had to settle for the more expensive slips since all the cheap ones were taken. There were probably ten boats behind us that had to settle for the expensive side of the marina. We also got to park with a big group of cruisers, so there was an evening pot luck/party and we got to socialize with folks who we’ll be seeing for the coming months. It’s fun, since we’re all tied up at a really long dock normally reserved for megayachts. It’s called “Battleship Row”. Instead of the megayachts, there’re about 20 of us 40 footers tied end to end down the dock.

On the way up here after the umpteenth wave crashed over the bow and spray covered the cockpit and a gust hit 30 knots, I remarked to Ann: “Hmmm, no worse than a Sunday sail in SF Bay”. Her response: “Oh, it’s much better because you don’t have to go to work tomorrow!” Oh, so true. So, we’re here through Thursday. Tomorrow (Wedesday) we’re going to take a bus into the old town. Cabo San Jose is the kind of town you expect from Mexico and a great antidote to Cabo San Lucas which is more like Las Vegas than Mexico.

Also, as we were sailing here today, I mentioned to Ann that we’d be getting in by around noon and we could spend some time working on the boat. “Boat day” as it were. Well we got here, made some lunch and then we both promptly fell asleep. I, in my hammock on the foredeck and Ann in the cabin. Later, Ann came up and took over the hammock. In remarking on how tired we were, we realize that we’ve been gone a month now and it’s been absolutely non-stop. Each day is full of things we have to get done and places we have to be. We’re looking forward to the pace slowing down. On Thursday, we’re leaving for Bahia Frailes (about 40 miles North of here) where we’ll anchor off a nice beach for a couple days of doing little more than snorkeling and visiting the other boats. Finally, no schedule.

OK, no pressure, but I’ve told Ann that tomorrow it’s her turn to blog. The title: “Reflections on a month gone cruising” So, stay tuned.

Today was the famous party at Bahia Santa Maria. It really is pretty fun and a bit surreal. The fun part is that there’s a rock band and amazing food, tuna and shrimp caught fresh by the fishermen who live here. The surreal part is that it’s all on a cliff overlooking the bay and there’s absolutely nothing anywhere around within 100 miles! The rock band comes from across Baja somewhere near La Paz and they bring a generator to power the electric guitars, amps, speakers and such. You get to the beach/cliff by dinghy. You have to motor in an inflatable dinghy over the sand bar to get to the beach. You have to time it so the waves don’t break on you as you’re moving into the shallow water. We were successful. We saw one dinghy at Bahia Tortuga, not here, flip in the surf and go upside down. Definitely bad because the outboard engine gets soaked by salt water. Anyway, fun party. Good day. One funny thing happened after the party when we were all back at the boat. Elan and Ann were in the cockpit enjoying the end of the sunset, I was in the galley cooking the last of our Mahi (with rice and red bell peppers) and Danna was swimming around the boat to cool off and rinse off from a warm day. It was getting dark and through the darkness we heard; “Can I rest on your boat?” Huh?! Turned out “Nate” swam from the beach, which is about 300 yards away and he was swimming back to his boat which was named Panache. But…it had gotten dark and he didn’t know where HIS boat was. But as Nate put it; “It’s all good”. We offered to call his boat on the VHF and get some bearings for him, but he said he’d just swim until he found it. You meet some “interesting” people out here. Anyway, we invited him to sit in the cockpit to rest a while. Then as dinner was getting ready, he thanked us for the hospitality and jumped back into the bay. I left the radio on “just in case” as I had a feeling this wasn’t the last we’d heard from Nick. We sat down for a great Mahi dinner and sure enough, in the middle of dinner, we heard a call: “Panache, Panache, this is Cleo Two”. “Cleo Two, go to channel 71”. We couldn’t help it, we wanted to find out the story, so we switched the radio to 71 and heard Cleo Two say; “There’s a swimmer resting on our stern who says he can’t find his boat”. We then heard Panache say; “Oh no, NIIIICCCKK!” They sounded very exasperated. Eventually by turning on strobe lights and other stuff Panache’s location was identified and Nick realized he was swimming in exactly the wrong direction to get back. Oh well.

Well, that’s our day. Ann’s now trying to teach Elan and Danna how to play cribbage. We have two more days (hopefully only one night) to Cabo. The start is at 0700 tomorrow and Cabo is our next stop. We’ll update there and hopefully add some pictures.

We’re sitting here at anchor watching a warm, beautiful sunrise. Got in at sunset last night (10-31) and anchored in 17 feet off the cliffs. The beach party is this afternoon, so we’re getting the dinghy ready to go have some time hiking around before the party.

Yesterday was more blue-water sailing. A little slow, we were doing 3 knots for much of the day, but nice nonetheless.

Almost saw some exciting fishing yesterday. I saw almost because we lost both fish. The first one hit on our pole. I was unfortunately in the head in mid-stream and although I could hear the line zinging out and much screaming from the cockpit, I was incapacitated and unable to immediately participate. After what seemed like 10 minutes (and was actually probably 15 seconds) I was ready for action. Pants hanging halfway off, I dashed out of the head to the cockpit. Confusing reigned. Everyone was yelling, the line was zinging and we were still doing 6 knots. The wind had come up by this time of the day, so we were doing 6 knots with a huge Tuna on the line (Ann saw it jump). The line was fast disappearing. By the time I got to the pole, the line was down past the 150 yards of monofilament and on the last hundred yards or so of spectra. We only had a few seconds to get things in order before losing all the line off the reel. I told Elan to make a hard turn upwind to slow the boat (which he tried to do earlier, but couldn’t as the line was threatening to cut the wind vane in two). Once I got the vane off, he was able to make the turn, but in the overall confusion and struggle, the turn and fact that I wasn’t completely ready to reel the slack in the line from the turn, left some slack and the Tuna took advantage and shook the hook. I felt it let go. Disappointment. Overall lesson on this one: when the line’s in the water, everyone needs to be rehearsed on how to slow down fast so we can get the fish in. Having been able to hold the pole for a bit, I know it was the biggest Tuna I’ve felt on the line and am not completely disappointed in not having to wrestle that guy up on to the boat. I think subduing him would have been akin to hand to hand combat.

A little later we also got a huge hit on the hand line. So big it broke the lure, so one more miss and a lost lure. Hopefully we’ll have some more action on the next and last leg down to Cabo tomorrow.

OK, so we’re heading in to shore for some hiking now. See y’all later.

P.S. Happy birthday to Lisa Miller, today, November 1st!

25 Degrees, 46 Minutes North 113 Degrees, 44 Minutes West

First off, Ann asked me to send her love to all her family on this special anniversary.

Today was one of those days you wish you could have all the time, but conditions and time constraints usually make it impossible. The water is blue, the sky is blue and the wind is blowing from behind us at about 10 knots, making it possible to actually sail directly where we want to go. We have been sailing now for 33 hours straight. All day today, it’s been wing and wing with the big genoa out on the pole. Other than some housekeeping and running the watermaker, we really have just been soaking up the warm sun and enjoying the peace, quiet and beauty that we’re so lucky to be experiencing. At this point, we look like we might get into Bahia Santa Maria tomorrow night given that we still have some 100 or so miles to go and our speed is about 4.5 knots. In the modern age, that sounds funny to say it’s going to take more than a day to cover 100 miles. Makes you appreciate every one of them.

Our birdy friend unfortunately expired sometime in the night. I guess he was more exhausted than we thought. Elan and Danna gave him a burial at sea a little after sunrise when they checked in on him and realized he had passed away during the night sometime. I’m glad we offered up a little sanctuary and some comfort for him to rest before dying.

No fishing today. We still have lots of Mahi and we’re going to make some fried potatoes with sautéed peppers to go with it. Good thing we didn’t fish because Elan took another sun shower on the foredeck and who knows what giant sea creature THAT might have tempted this time.

By the way, some folks want to see more pictures. We’ll do our best to upload them when we’re in Cabo. These messages are sent via shortwave radio email directly to the blog where they are automatically uploaded. Nice and convenient, but not enough bandwidth to add more than just text. So for now, that’s what you’re stuck with.

Love to everyone.

26 degrees, 47 minutes North 114 degrees, 43 minutes West

OK, I’m going to have to work up to this, so bear with me. We’ll start with morning sunrise at Turtle Bay (Bahia Tortuga). Alarm went off at 0600, way too early since we’re still catching up on our sleep. But it was worth it to have our morning coffee watching a gorgeous sunrise over the bay. Fast forward a couple hours to the start at 0800. We were in full on pirate mode firing the treacherous marshmellow cannon (that my sister Sue bought us as a going away present) at any boat foolish enough to get close enough, which pretty much meant they had to be within about 30 feet. The scurvy dogs we shot at defended themselves with boat cushions and then proceeded to consume the projectiles. After all the starting frivolity things moved very slowly. Not much wind at first, so we were only making about 1 ½ knots. How fast is that? Well, if you spit in the water, the spit will almost pass you up. So, time to set the spinnaker. Up she went and we were off at a blazing 2 plus knots. Couple hours later, the wind was up to 10 knots, so Charisma was doing about 5 knots. Fast enough to get some fishing lines out. No sooner than they were out that Elan was shouting that something was on the line. The pole was jumping up and down, so I yelled; “Fish on!” (I get to say stuff like that since I’m the captain). I grabbed the pole and started reeling. It felt funny, but there was definitely something on the line. As it got close to the boat, I could see something very strange was going on. This was no fish! It was a horde of killer squid! Captain Nemo would have felt right at home preparing to fend off the angry squid. There were at least a dozen of them swooping back and forth trying to grab the lure with their tentacles. Really bizarre. We didn’t try to catch one because none of us knew how to land it or prepare it. We’ll have to work that one out for future opportunities, but in the mean time we retired that lure for a while. The other lure we choose wasn’t much better as it attracted bonito, or as I prefer to call them; “Cat food”. We caught half a dozen before we decided to pull the line for a while and get past the bonito school. A little later our line was back in the water and we caught a small yellowfin Tuna. The fishing was definitely looking up, but this guy was too small to keep, so I shook it off the line. OK, you’re waiting to hear the big news. Around 1600 two momentous events converged to create near havoc and yes… naked madness. Here’s how it went. Elan decided he would take a sun shower. So, out with the shower and off with clothes. Well, you know that once there’s a naked person, slathered with soap and water on the foredeck (with a bucket at hand for his rinse) SOMETHING momentous is going to happen. Oh, did I mention the wind had increased and we were doing about 7 knots with the spinnaker still up? So, right about this moment; “ZINNNNGGGGG”, went the fishing line…FISH ON!” (I love saying that). So, I’m on the pole, Elan’s sliding around on the foredeck on his, um, non-skid, Ann grabs the wheel and yells; “which way do I go!” while trying hard NOT to look forward where the boat’s heading. Naked. Madness. At the same time, Danna was also naked, taking a sponge bath in the head, so she was frantically looking for her clothes to come up and join the fray. Naked Madness. But that’s just the first part. We had to slow the boat down and fast, or the fish would take all the line out. The only solution? Drop the chute. Where? On the foredeck! When? Right Now!. Naked Madness!! I ran up and grabbed the spinny halyard, closed my eyes and yelled at Elan to duck. He slid down the scuppers to the lee rail while I dropped the chute on top of him all the while yelling; “pull it in, pull it in!” Poor choice of words given the moment, but we had a real urgent situation going and the fish was still waiting to get reeled in. Once I got the chute down on the deck (on down on Elan as it were) we were able to head up into the wind and slow the boat down enough to reel the mystery fish in. I ran back to the pole leaving Elan writhing underneath about 50 square yards of yellow nylon. I got ahold of the pole, Elan found his shorts. The mystery fish turned out to be a beautiful Mahi, flashing iridescent green and blue. Got the fish cleaned and filleted before sunset and had the first fish tacos of the trip. Yum! The other item of note is our new hitchhiker. A little sparrow type bird has landed on the boat and found his way under the dodger. He’s bedded down for the night. Good thing because we’re at least 20 miles offshore. He has his head tucked into his feathers and is sleeping by the mainsail cleat. We’re just trying to leave him alone so he can rest up for his flight home. I’m off watch, so going to try and get some sleep now. Elan and Danna are standing watch until 2300. We’re in Mexico. This is our adventure.

OK, so my sister, Sue has noted that we’re slacking on the blog front, so here’s some catch up. Sorry we can’t post many more pictures for a week or so till we get in to Cabo. There’s just no internet. This is all by shortwave, so can’t post stuff that takes a lot of bandwidth.

Going back to roll call on the morning of 10/25, there was a “telling” comment from Riichard “Lat 38” Spindler’s lifestyle. One of the Canadian boats called in their position and Richard asked what they were having for breakfast. The response; “Gourmet porridge with walnuts and dates”. Richard’s response; “What’s so gourmet about that?!” Their comeback; “We were afraid if we didn’t say ‘gourmet’, you would say; ‘yuck'”. Richard’s comeback; “What!! We’re having leftover vegetable soup with Habanero sauce…or at least I am”. OK, maybe you had to be there and be sleep deprived, but it was funny at the time 😉

We did pretty well on the first leg. I think we were the first boat in our class to get in and even better, we didn’t motor, but sailed all the way after the rolling start (despite ‘Lectronic Latitude misreporting this). We looked at the grib files (wind forecast) and saw a band of wind about 15 miles off the coast. Well, it turned out we found it and sailed all night in a perfect 15 knots of wind right down to Cedros Island, while others were reporting being becalmed all night. Nice tactic! We rode this great breeze down the coast all night complete with gorgeous stars and….both watches saw amazing shooting stars. Ann and I saw one in particular that covered at least 30 degrees of the horizon as it streaked across the sky. We both just exclaimed: “oh, oh, wowwwww!” It was that kind of event and at 0300 anything that keeps you awake is amazing. (Elan: Danna and I saw a shooting star that seemed to go straight up from the horizon.) And let it be noted that Ann clocked our fastest speed at 8.8 knots!

We were also fortunate to finish fairly early. We crossed the finish line for this leg, which is about 20 miles off the bay to ensure folks don’t get too close to the coast trying to finish, at 1752. It was getting fairly windy and choppy by then, but folks who were out all night behind us reported some “not fun” conditions akin to a “washing machine”. Glad to get in before that. Conditions for the next leg, which starts mañana at 0800, are expected to be mostly 10 knots for the next two days. A little more during the first 24 hours and a little less the next day.

Yesterday, along with all the fun of the beisbol and seeing Bahia Tortuga again (I really like the people here) we had a very special and unusual thing happen. Ann and I were walking around town looking for the beisbol stadium and we asked a couple young girls; “Donde esta el beisbol?” (OK, our Spanish is a little basic). The girls, about 14 years old and coming home from school in their uniforms, pointed up one of the streets and said; “alli!”. So, Ann and I continued on our way. A minute later a beater Toyota pickup (half the roof was rusted through) pulled up and the two girls (again, about 14 years old at most) were in the cab and pointed for us to jump in the bed of the truck; with a huge fishing net and some other stuff. We jumped in, crossed our fingers and off we went. We both looked at each other and I’d swear I saw Ann make the sign of the cross. I just said; “hang on!!” Turned out the little girls were credible drivers and drove us slowly and carefully right up to the baseball field. What a delightful experience!

To my sister Sue: A quick note: We just put together the marshmallow guns you gave us as a going away present. We’re going to use them tomorrow at the start to blast the other boats. We inadvertently tested it inside the boat just now (there’s no safety on these things) and Ann accidently blasted Elan. He took three to the chest and fell backward in surprise. Of course I was worried about cockroaches coming on board looking for the wayward marshmallows so my comment (after confirming Elan wasn’t actually mortally wounded) was: “find them”. We collected some but could only find two, until Elan admitted; “I ate one”.

OK, so today was the Beach Party! What a fun day. We took a panga in to the beach about 1230. Then the festivities began. Pot Luck food; Ann made a huge batch of chocolate chip cookies last night as our part and there were tons of pasta dishes, ceviche from those who caught fish, the usual chili dishes, some BBQ and the locals set up a beer bar. All on a beach that is miles and miles long and deserted the other 364 days a year. There was a volleyball game (who knew Ann was such a great player!), Tug of War (the women won for the 18th year in a row, I think it’s a set up) and one of the catamarans that anchored too close to the beach went aground, got caught in the surf and was in some peril. A number of HaHa’ers pitched in (about 30 folks) and spent at least an hour pushing, shoving, pulling and otherwise straining to get the boat back off the beach. It was ultimately a success and seemed no damage was done. Ann, Elan and I took a panga back and had a Charisma with which to watch the sunset and then Ann’s request for dinner: “Huevos Boberos”. Elan and Danna went into town to catch the World Series (which we now know St Louis won) and Elan is now back on board. He traded with the panga drivers for his trip back. Instead of the usual two bucks for the ride, he gave them his Captain Hook hat. Score one for Elan. Danna is still ashore, undoubtedly complaining about Texas’ loss with other Ranger’s fans.

Lastly, a special call out to Geoff, Diane and Jansen who came with us last year. We were thinking fondly about you all today and our last year trip as we’re having new and fun experiences this year. Hope you all are doing well.