We left Chacala today and motored the six or so miles to Jaltemba. We were out of water and given the cloudy weather today, needed the engine to run the watermaker.

Charisma anchored right off the beach

We shared our anchorage the first night when we were out at the island a mile offshore with these guys. The fish most of the night and then are back in the morning.

Ann says to make sure to tell everyone that we pulled a sea horse up on the stern anchor as we were leaving Chacala. He looked a little peeved so I dropped him over the side before putting the anchor back up on Charisma.

We got to Jaltemba in the early afternoon and anchored right off the beach. We dinghied in after a late lunch and walked around town a bit to get some supplies. The anchorage was rough and very exposed, so once back, we pulled anchor and headed a mile or so out to Isla La Pena where we could tuck into the lee of the island and get some relief from the wind and swell.

The most notable part of the day was obtaining an amazing dinner that we brought back to Charisma and enjoyed while anchored by ourselves off this beautiful island. Isla La Pena is home to frigates, pelicans and some kind of eagle or maybe very large hawk that I’ll have to identify more specifically tomorrow-the fading light this evening didn’t let me get a good enough look.

So, the amazing dinner cost a whopping $4.80 (that would be 60 pesos) for the two of us and was delicious. We found a street vendor who was BBQing half and whole chickens. We ordered a half chicken and didn’t pay attention while it was taken off the BBQ and packed in a bag. Turned out our $4.80 paid for the half chicken (perfectly cooked), ¼ kilo of fresh, warm tortillas, salad for two, and salsa and rice for two. Amazing!

Jaltemba a block off the beach.

So, Happy Valentine’s Day everyone. We’re enjoying ours anchored in our own cove a mile or so offshore.

Ann’s sister Joan, who has been here in Jacamba says there’s a great farmers market on Wednesdays, so we’re hoping for good enough weather tomorrow to move back to the beach so we can dinghy into the beach. If the weather doesn’t cooperate… oh well, it’s pretty nice out here-we’ll fish instead since we did manage to find a nice head of broccoli at the market today.

Such is our life on the coast of Mexico. In another day or so, we’ll head the next 40 or so miles to Puerto Vallarta where we’ll put in the La Cruz and hope to catch up with a bunch of friends we haven’t seen for a month or so, then fly back to California for a week (starting on March 4th) before getting ready for the next stage of our adventure. The jump to the South Seas.

The shrimp guy. One of the specialties in Jaltemba is BBQ shrimp on the skewer sold on the beach by these vendors. Yum!

"Me, me, me, me, no...me first" The Mexicans take good care of their Pelicans. Even the fisherman are very kind to them.

(From Ann) Yesterday Chacala was embraced by a storm passing through and so we were pretty much boat bound listening to rain on the cabin top. But we used the time wisely and I made bread and replenished our cookie dough supply and Bob installed two new fans in the main cabin.

All of the other boats in the anchorage moved on but we stayed put because we knew Chacala had more to offer (especially because my sister Joan, who just moved from Maine, and her family actually have been here!!!).

Well we were not disappointed! We were awakened by rain at 6:45 this morning and then the skies cleared! Bob quickly tried his luck fishing from the boat and instead of catching dinner (we are having pasta) he ended up conversing with a Czechoslovakian named “George” who swam out to Charisma to say “hi”. He is camping through Mexico with his wife in their Volkswagon camper. We meet the most interesting people. George was fascinated by Charisma so swam out to check us out. Later in the day when we went ashore George babysat our dinghy for us at the panga dock. George had just gotten two free fish from the local fisherman and was thrilled. When Bob said he was fishing for dinner George told him he was going to fish later on and since he had some free fish, if he caught any he would bring it out to us. Love it. Unfortunately neither Bob nor George caught a fish today (although the pasta with pancetta, green beans and garlic wasn’t bad).

We launched a kayak and I enjoyed kayaking all over the anchorage while Bob tried trolling for fish. When I got back I jumped in with a scrub brush and finished cleaning the growth off of the water line of Charisma. Tough job to keep yourself up against the boat while scrubbing – which pushes you away. Great exercise.

This afternoon after a pleasant walk on the beach and stopping for ice cream (hand made by a Mexican man who used to live in Los Gatos and teach art in SF) we returned to our babysat dinghy and returned to Charisma.

And because we could….we then got in swim suits and jumped overboard and swam ashore!!! And back. The water temperature was perfect. And the sun shower was ready when we got back. Hot showers followed by “hammock time” (Bob rigged both hammocks!) and Charismas at sunset…life is good!

(First off: Happy Birthday to Ann’s sister, Carolyn and also to our dear friend, Chuckie, both celebrating birthdays on Friday, February 10th) We were cruising along somewhere between San Blas and Bahia Chacala (where we are now), Ann was sitting up on the foredeck and I was watching the wind vane making sure our course was correct. I’d been watching whales jumping right and left, but none were really close, so no problem. However, one finally surfaced fifty yards of so off the port side and my intuition said that he didn’t know we were near him. We were after all, sailing and therefore hardly making a sound. So, I called out to Ann: “Stomp your feet”. She didn’t realize that I was trying to signal to the whale, so I heard; “tap, tap, tap” as she lightly touched the deck in response to my request. Seconds later, Mr Whale (Emily, we think it was a Grey Whale) surfaced right next to Charisma and startled both of us by how close he came. He seemed to have heard the “tap, tap” and headed over only to find a sailboat, therefore he circled around and passed us by about 15 feet. Problem was we were towing two fishing lines. Not 10 seconds later, the fishing pole started screaming and the line was ripping out at an amazing pace. In fact, it was coming off the reel about the speed at which a whale swims. Not much question what the problem, so what’s the solution? Well, I can tell you trying to pull him in didn’t work. My instinct tried that for about two seconds before almost being launched off the afterdeck. In the meantime, Ann knew that the only solution would be to cut the line so she reached down into the companionway hatch and grabbed the first metal gripped item she could find and handed me….a flashlight! “What the hell! We have a whale on the line and you’re handing me a flashlight!!??” While she reached back for the knife, I came to my senses, grabbed the knife in my pocket and cut the line. Instant quiet. We just stared at each other. “Did that really happen? Did we almost catch a whale?” Well, almost is a relative term. We hooked a whale, let’s just leave it at that and he now owns my $35 squid lure. Oh well. When we got into Chacala an hour or so later and told Dave and Steve from “Free Spirit” who got in a couple hours ahead of us, about how we almost caught a whale. Steve, ever the gourmand, got on the radio and asked with feigned innocence; “…and how were you going to prepare it?” My only answer: “Very carefully”.

So, tomorrow, we’ll explore a new (very small) town.

So here we are at Chacala and we had chicken for dinner. It’s a small cove, fairly open to the West through South. We have a stern anchor out to keep us pointed into the waves. Four of the five other boats in the cove did not do that and now they are sitting sideways to the waves and rolling from rail to rail. It will be a very uncomfortable night for them. We, however, will point into the waves all night and be comfortable. Yay us!

By the way, for my friends in marketing who are reading this, here’s a unique way to market your services. Ann and I were sitting in the cockpit enjoying a cocktail and watching the sunset when we heard a voice, seemingly from nowhere, “Welcome to Chacala”. Huh? We looked down and there were two people, a man and woman who had swum out from the beach. After welcoming us to the cove, she added that they live in the; “Yellow house on the beach with the white cover on the room and I do massage therapy”. Ah, that’s exactly what we need, so I’m thinking her welcome was very effective target marketing. Now what to call this particular kind of media so we can scale it for broader use….?

First off; Happy Birthday to my Dad, who is 81 today (Feb 6)!

OK, today Ann and I went on a jungle tour. Our friends John and Tiffany from the sailboat Michaela, who are anchored next to us in Bahia Matanchen came as well. (Pictures tomorrow when we’re in town with the wi-fi)

We rendezvoused at Charisma and in our two dinghies headed into the beach at Playa Elita where we landed through the surf and pulled the boats high up on the sand. After asking the folks at the beach restaurant (a thatched hut with chairs and tables in the sand) if they would watch our boats and promised in exchanged to have dinner there when we got back, we struck out on foot down the dirt road to the main (two lane) road into town.

At the crossroad are some vendors who sell delicious treats like home-made banana bread and the most amazing macaroons. We bought a few treats and headed a hundred meters or so to the entrance to the jungle tour. It’s Mexican style. Basically, you have pangas with bench seats that will hold about 15 people that take you up into the mangroves and jungle. It’s real, not Disney. The pangadero doesn’t speak English, but we have enough Spanish so we get by.

Our jungle tour driver

Sometimes you’re making breathtaking speed around blind corners in a swamp that is barely wide enough for two boats to pass and guess what? At the epicenter of the corner you meet another speeding panga and miss him by about a foot at a passing speed of about 30 miles/hour. But, they know what they are doing. Good boatmen these and when they are not doing tours they are fishing on the ocean.

So, we were about 5 minutes into the tour and the guide slows down. We look to the side and there, not 20 feet away laying on a tree root a little above the water is a crocodile with his mouth wide open. Was he just waiting for one of us to jump in?

Just sitting there catching flies

Another Croc just a bit upriver

Turtle. The crocs will eat them if they can.

Turns out, the open mouth is how they cool themselves. Fast forward an hour of swamp journey and a half dozen more crocs of different sizes from 4 feet to about 14 feet, we arrived at the croc zoo. I think it’s there so if you don’t see any crocs along the way you won’t feel slighted because you can get right up to a croc in this place. You are only separated from them by a cyclone fence. In fact, I was able to touch one croc’s leg who was lying right up against the fence. It was not what I expected from these touch, prehistoric characters. It felt like, ah, well…a purse. Yup, kind of soft and supple under the tough leathery surface. Then he twitched and turned his three inch long teeth toward me and I yelped, jumped about three feet and decided I’d had enough crocodile touching for the day.

Too close for comfort

In the zoo area, we also saw a jaguar. One of the most beautiful animals I have ever seen. Just stunning colors and pattern.

All in all, a very successful tour followed by taking the bus into San Blas to walk around a bit including down to the marina where we ran into some friends who were staying there but coming out to anchor in the bay with us manana.

The end of the day included sunshowers on the foredeck with the almost full moon rising behind us and a fantastic, flame-red sunset in from of us.

The sunset shower.

We like this area and are going to stay another two days before moving on.

North 21 degrees, 30 minutes; West 105 degrees, 14 minutes, or about 3 miles South of San Blas San Blas, according to our guidebook was “discovered” by Hollywood when John Huston filmed “Night of the Iguana” here with Richard Burton. We anchored here about 1600 and are relaxing after a 9 hour downwind sail from Isla Isabel.

We were anchor up at 0645 this morning and slipped out of our little cove to a typically beautiful Mexican sunrise. The sail here was delightful. Once again, we saw at least a dozen whales, many of whom were breaching and otherwise practicing their acrobatics. Less than ¼ mile from our anchorage, as we were leaving, one came over to say “goodbye” by doing barrel rolls, each time waving his flukes in the air as if to wish us bon voyage.

I was struck during our quiet downwind journey by how nice it is to be fairly “off the grid”. The sunshine is powering our solar panels, which in turn provide electricity for navigation equipment, lights refrigerator and particularly the watermaker, which turns seawater into drinkable fresh water at the rate of 6 or 7 gallons/hour. On top of that, as we were sailing, our fishing lines provided yet another dinner. Around 1400 as we were approaching the coast, we got a “hit” on the handline. We were using a cedar plug and a Sierra Mackeral (also known as Cerro Mackeral) conveniently made himself available for our dinner. Ironically I was just thinking about how I was going to cook some of the chicken we have in the freezer when the clothespin on the line snapped signaling a fish on. We haven’t caught one of these since Geoff and I did last year up near La Paz. They are considered a delicacy in Mexico. They don’t keep well, so you won’t find them in any local stores but they are one of the most delicious of the pelagic fish (in my opinion). Ann’s getting a salad ready right now and I’m about to heat up the cast iron pan to gently fry the fish in a little olive oil and a squeeze of lime to go with the last of our green beans that we bought in Mazatlan.

Tomorrow we check out San Blas….

P.S. We’re going to be back in the Bay Area starting March 4th for a week to get our taxes done before leaving on the “big jump” to the South Pacific.

We are now “one” with the whales.

Last night, still anchored at Isla Isabela, we woke in the middle of the night to singing. Who could be singing out here in the Pacific Ocean? Listen carefully what could that be? Oh my goodness, it’s the whale song resonating with Charisma’s hull! Sometime in the early morning hours we just listened in awe as we were fortunate enough to share an ancient communication. Beautiful.

Woke up to a slightly overcast day and decided we would take a ride in the dinghy “around the corner” of our cove. Around the corner turns out to be the Pacific Ocean. The full Pacific swell was in place albeit light. Up and over 3 foot swells we went, which in our dinghy seemed more like climbing small buildings. We were very exposed, no longer tucked into our nice cove on the South side of the island. Manta Rays were jumping around us as we motored around the island. Did I mention we brought a fishing pole too. Silly us. I’m not sure what would happen if we had been lucky (?) enough to hook a 40 lb tuna or 50″ wahoo. I think it might look like “old man and the sea”. Anyway, as we’re traveling along, Ann shouted; “Whale!” Actually it was two of them and they were about 50 yards away or as Ann noted; “too close for my comfort”. Fortunately they just did a few mild aerobatics and then dove, no doubt intent on continuing their breakfast. We looked at each other and just said; “Wow”. What else can you do when you have a private whale show in so intimate an environment?

“What else” turned out to happen as I continued in my quest for fish later in the day. I decided I would dedicate the day to catching more delicious fish. So, off again in the dinghy with fishing pole in hand. This time, I drift fished out of our cove into the deep blue. The first indication that I wasn’t very near land anymore was an aerial show from several manta rays who were jumping in a line that got me thinking that if they didn’t stop I’d have a very large manta ray in the dinghy with me! It turned out they only (!) got about ten feet away before veering away. Really, a little too close. So, now that the manta ray show was over and none ended up in my lap, I settled down to more fishing having gotten a couple bites a little earlier. My next indication something was amiss was a loud; “BOOM”. Yipes! I turned around in time to see a full size humpback whale breach-that is jump clear out of the water while spinning around at the same time-less than fifty yards from my frail little inflatable boat. Basically, he was towering above me. Fifty yards!! That’s about how far you chip onto the green over a sand trap. While I was thinking that, he jumped again. Thirty yards! Then again. Twenty yards! OK, that’s about the length of a small backyard swimming pool. His splashes were rocking my small boat and his breath-he would breath each time he leaped- was, well…bad! OK, that was close enough, I was worried maybe he didn’t see my insignificant little craft. I leapt to the starter and pulled the cord-engine started and I moved “casually” out the way as my friend Mr. Whale jumped several more times, then did about half a dozen “barrel rolls” and slapped his flukes as if he was laughing with joy. Ha, ha, very funny. Ann was back on Charisma watching this whole event as she heard the BOOM every time the whale leapt out of the water and smashed back to the sea. Amazing. I am still somewhat speechless given how out of nowhere the fairly calm ocean was turned into frothing white water and I was able to have a close up view of this unbelievable spectacle. The other amazing thing; as this was unfolding, all I could think of was; “he’s looking right at me”. Every leap, the whale twisted in mid-air so his eye was right on me as he seemed to fly though the air before splashing back down into the blue Pacific Ocean. I think he was playing whale peek-a-boo. Just wow! The adventure just continues.

This about the fifth breach after I moved away. If you click on the photo you can still see me in the dinghy moving away.

This is about the fifth or sixth breach after I moved away

A pretty significant craft next to a breaching humpback whale. Wish I had brought a camera with me though.

P.S. Missy: So, we cooked the last of the fish last night using the book you gave us. Fantastic! Nice job. Kelly: I finished the book you got me on Steve Jobs. Loved it! Wonderful book. Ann’s going to read it next.

This one is from Ann —

Did I tell you how much I love our kayaks? Today we launched them again and paddled over to one of the sea caves that I had been admiring. The one under the Booby Perch rock. And the kayak fit through perfectly! Very cool.

Into the sea cave...

...and out the other side. Later in the day, we snorkled through. It was a little scary at first since it was dark, but once we got used to the darkness, it was very cool.

The water here is pretty clear (We are still at Isla Isabela) so as we paddled around we were able to see fish swimming below us. And coming out of the sea cave we could look up at the boobies perched at the edge of the cliff. I think they liked us better from this angle.

After a glorious kayak around we came back to Charisma. Bob had gotten aboard when I noticed an unusual pattern in the water nearby. Bob grabbed the binoculars and identified a school of fish feeding. So I paddled over and investigated! The water was bubbling with activity. I took the waterproof camera, stuck my hand in the water, hit the shutter and got pictures of a school of 15-18″ Crevalle Jack (like a small yellow fin tuna) which we will post later. I was able to follow them around a little longer and be part of the fun.

Ann got this by just sticking her hand in the water with the waterproof camera from her kayak

We got our snorkel gear and headed back out in the dinghy. We used a small anchor Bob brought for the dinghy and Jacque Cousteau-like we flipped backwards out of the dinghy and into the water. Okay, truth be told, Bob did, I just slipped over the edge of the dinghy and into the water.

It was beautiful snorkeling! Most impressive was the school of about 400 Pacific Lookdown fish. At first Bob points to them, like, “Look at that school of fish!”. And they just kept coming! Like I said, probably 400 of these 6-8″ thin silver fish schooling along right next to us. Amazing! Of course there were many other beautiful fish to see among these rocky shores. But then I looked up and we were back near the sea cave! “Swim through it!” I tell Bob. So he does. I followed him thinking, this is scary! It was very deep and pretty dark but beautiful. Blue phosphorescent fish were swimming below us, and there was, of course, a light at the end of the tunnel. So fun!

Back on Charisma a little later, we were treated to a whale show about 60 yards off of our stern. Do things like this really happen? Crazy. Two whales were diving and showing their flukes for 20 minutes while we’re anchored a mere 60 yards away!

We finished our day with “hammock time” while we enjoyed the songs of the hundreds of birds circling over our heads -including the rare Red-billed Tropicbird that will not let me photograph it!

P.S. To Missy: Tonight we’re cooking the last of the fish we caught yesterday and using the cookbook you got us for Christmas. Since the fish is close to snapper, we’re using the recipe for snapper on a bed of sliced potatoes, green beans, julienned carrots and tomatoes with olive oil, and a dash of balsamic vinegar all wrapped in foil and baked. It’s in the oven right now and the aroma is heavenly!

No, not some kind of Mexican jail (as we are still within sight of the penal colony’s lights at night), but the fish I caught for dinner. Actually two dinners, at least.

He measured 23 inches and made dinner for two nights. Delicious!

I tried fishing from Charisma and was hoping to catch some more of those bass we caught back near La Paz, but no action. So I decided it was well past time on this voyage where I tried some trolling from the dinghy.

Looks a little silly, but resulted in dinner...

I took a few passes through the cove and one out around the corner trying a couple different lures. No joy. On the end of the last pass, with my last lure (an old beat up Rappella with tooth marks from a barracuda I caught in the Caribbean), the pole bent double and the line started running off the reel. I immediately stopped the dinghy and tightened the drag. Solid pull, couldn’t budge whatever it was. I thought I was hooked on a rock and was thinking about how to fix that when this “thing” started pulling the dinghy through the water toward the rocks. Uh, oh. (Should I add at this point, that there was a panga with some of the fishermen aboard anchored about 30 yards away and relaxing with a smoke before going back to their shacks. They were duly entertained by the silly gringo yatista being towed around the cove by a giant fish).

So…I have some kind of monster from the deep towing me to sure oblivion on the rocks. What to do? Fortunately the engine was still on, so I gingerly put it in reverse (I’m holding the pole with my left hand and both legs and working the engine with my right hand). Some movement. More reverse. Even more movement. I couldn’t reel him in, but I could tow him! So, rocks averted, I started to tow Moby Fish out to deeper water. Backwards. The Mexican fishermen were thrilled with the afternoon entertainment. Once out in the deeper part of the cove, my Barred Pargo was tired and submitted. I didn’t know what I had until he came out of the depths. Once to the surface, I saw what a beautiful fish I had caught and knew it was some kind of rockfish (which are good eating-the whole purpose of this exercise). So, I bonked him with my trusty fish bonker and pulled him on board to the sound of gentle, polite clapping and smiles from my amigos in the panga. The gringo uses some silly techniques, but he gets his dinner.

So, back to Charisma to proudly show off tonight’s dinner and time to make some fillets. They looked just like snapper, except lighter in color and cooked white. Delicious. We have enough for two or three nights. Thank you Mr. Barred Pargo. Pictures to come.

The fish book describes him thusly; “To 2 ½ feel and 30 pounds. A deep-bodied snapper found skulking in caves and around rocks. Edibility: Excellent.” We measured the one I caught. It was 23 inches.

Blue footed, yellow footed and brown footed (they are fairly rare we’re told) Boobies nest on this island along with frigates. The other animal inhabitants are iguanas. There are so many you have to watch where you step or you might step on one.

...watch where you step....

Ann and friend

Since the island is protected (it was given the status of Parque Nacional and World Heritage Site in 2003) the animals here flourish without fear. It’s been named the Galapagos of Mexico. You can walk right up to a nesting bird or sunning iguana and they just look at you; “eh, another tourist”. Even at that there are very few tourists as the island lies more than 15 miles off of a coast without a large city to “breed” tourists. So mostly just “yatistas” visit and occasionally a more organized nature trip.

After arriving here early in the morning, we were anxious to get ashore and had the dinghy pumped up and in the water by 0900. We motored to the only beach area in the only protected (from wind and wave) cove on the island to go ashore. There is a small fishing camp here where a few Mexican fishermen make their living fishing the water around the island. There were very friendly as we landed between their pangas, but none spoke enough English, so we moved past the beach up onto the island proper to see the birds.

The only inhabitants of the island live in this fish camp

“See” them doesn’t really do this experience justice. You are more “one” with them. The Frigates, which are huge-six foot wingspans-nest just barely above your head in the small wind swept trees. As we walked among them, you could reach out and touch their nests (we didn’t of course). Numerous nests had young fuzzy baby Frigates not yet old enough to fly. Some of the birds were also nesting on the ground, so between the Frigates and the iguanas, we chose our path very carefully. We’re talking hundreds of Frigates all around you in areas the size of a small house. There were literally dozens in every tree, many with babies. And the noise! Almost deafening. Sqawking and clacking their bills, this is where the word; “cacophony” must have come from. And we won’t even attempt to describe the smell. Along every few trees one of the males would display his colors whereby he would “blow up” his throat, ballooning to a brilliant red against the mostly black body. When we had a moment to look down, we would see several iguanas every couple yards ranging from little lizard size up to two feet long. Attired in flip flops, I took early inventory and carefully counted my toes before we moved on.

Frigate madness

Frigate hatchling

Male Frigate

So, Frigates live mostly in trees. OK, then where were the Boobies? The answer turns out to be symbiotic in that they live on the rocks. So, carefully tracing our steps back to the beach so we wouldn’t disturb or step on all the wildlife, we headed to the other end of the beach where hundreds of Boobies were nesting on the rocks overlooking our cove (multiply these quantities of many hundreds, maybe thousands per acre by the volume of an island a mile wide and several miles long, which is the length of the island, and you get a feel for how many birds nest here).

Ann of the boobies...

Boobies we came to see and Boobies we got. They are even more unafraid than the Frigates. You can walk right up to a nesting Booby and they will just sit there. Many were sitting on eggs and were keeping their hatchlings warm. Unconcerned and showing no fear, they would stand up and show us either eggs or a small fuzzy hatchling, still just with little stumps where they would eventually grow wings, then sit back down.

Boobie hatchling

Yes, my feet are blue...

Since they were nested so densely and in order not to unduly alarm any of them, I stayed at the base of the rocky point so Ann could explore to the top. We saw blue feet, yellow feet and red feet of the three types of Boobies.

...More blue feet...

We arrived at 0730. Coming in we could tell this place was going to be “wild”. Thousands of seabirds were soaring the winds above the island and in the last 5 miles coming in at around sunrise, we must have seen half a dozen whales breaching and otherwise jumping around. Ann swore she saw one do a back flip. I told her she was nuts until I saw the same thing later in the day from our anchorage.

As we approached the island, I woke up in the middle of the night and heard Ann talking up on deck. At first, in my sleepy haze and not knowing exactly where I was, I just assumed she was on the phone. Then with full consciousness coming on I remembered we were about 50 miles off the coast of Mexico and thought; “Has all this sailing sent her over the edge?” Climbing out of the bunk at around 0230, I slipped out of the quarterberth and up the companion way ladder, hearing a lilting voice; “Where are you? Come on out. Come back and play some more”. What the heck? The answer become clear in a couple seconds when I heard a splash and ‘whoof’. Dolphins playing by the stern. The dolphin whisperer was back.

Ann is the only person I have ever seen who can in fact, talk to the dolphins. During the day, when she laughs with joy at them, they jump out of the water in response. Now at night her lilting voice got them to spin around Charisma and talk back. They were chattering at her. Her voice must have a frequency that they like.

(From Ann) Actually they frightened me at first. I am on early morning watch and keep hearing puffs and smelling fish. I look around and because the moon as set already I see nothing. I even stand up on the deck and look, sure that something is about to get me – like a pod of killer whales! Then I realize that we are just off of the penal colony island where I read about an escape just as we got to La Paz. Now I’m really concerned. I think to myself, if it were dolphins I would see their phosphorescent trail in the water, right? And suddenly there it was! There were lots of trails as the dolphins played around the stern! My friends were back. (I tried to keep it quiet but found that both keeping my voice down and keeping on course became a problem. Oops!) BACK TO BOB…

This leg was about 90 miles and turned out to take us 21 hours. Of that time, we motored one and a half hours out of Mazatlan and ran under very shortened sail coming into Isabel, slowing from 6 knots to 3 knots for about 4 hours, in order to delay our arrival until after sunrise. All in all, this was a nice passage with fairly light winds most of the way. For the most part we were seeing 8 knot winds, but they went from 17 gusting to 25 for a couple hours just after sunset, to about 2 knots for a couple of hours on Ann’s watch around 0100. We didn’t see any other boats closer than 7 miles and those were probably fishing boats nearer the coast than we were. Overall a nice sail.