Ann saves the bear

This morning, we were up at 0500 getting ready to hike the Tongariro crossing. A 22 kilometer round trip or a little more than 12 miles, and over 3000 vertical feet up (then another 3000 feet back, ouch!) through volcano country.

Headlamps at "oh dark whatever..."

The volcanos here have erupted as recently as 1975 and part of the far end of the trail is closed right now due to detected activity of some kind this past November.

Fortunately our motel/lodge was only five minutes down the road from the turn out. We planned to leave at 0545 in order to get one of the few parking spots-once they are gone you can only get there by shuttle. Add another ten minutes for missing it in the dark and backtracking then fifteen minutes up a dirt road to the trailhead and our start time ended up being 0615. Also known as “zero-dark-fifteen”. Fortunately we had headlamps, since even with the full moon and cloudless sky, the trail over volcanic earth can be treacherous and easily bend an ankle of the unwary.

The landscape was almost surreal. Moonscape might just as well describe it, except in the first third of the hike where there is some scrubby, but stunningly beautiful vegetation with small streams running through. Not that we could see much. Our headlamps lit the trail but not much else for the first 45 minutes as we hiked in the moonlight, eagerly anticipating sunrise over the high ridge we were looking to summit.

The moonset behind us while sun is coming up over the ridge

As we ascended the first ridge, the sun greeted us for a glorious day of treking

This is a very popular hike in NZ. People come from all over the world to do it. Lonely Planet describes it as: “…one of New Zealand’s life changing experiences”. Actually having done it, neither Ann nor I can disagree. It was amazing.

Anyway, today was no exception to the international appeal. We ran across folks from Germany, Canada, Switzerland, Wales, US, and more.

As the darkness started to turn to dawn, we switched off the headlamps and enjoyed the early morning light. That’s when Ann saw it! A Teddy Bear fallen by the side of the trail, almost hidden by the vegetation! Upon seeing it she vaulted forward and scooped it up. “Someone’s lost it!”, she exclaimed. My response: “Set it on a rock and they will find it on the way back (grumble, grumble…)”. And she did. Carefully setting the Teddy Bear up on the rock so it would have a good view of the surroundings and it’s owners might easily find him later in the day.

But…it didn’t end there. As we contined up our climb, Ann became more and more concerned that the Teddy Bear was very special to someone out hiking with us on this day. Soon we caught up with a small group in front of us. Ann earnestly asked them as soon as we were in range: “Have you lost a Teddy Bear?”. Well…you might imagine the response. They looked at us rather oddly, picked up their pace and replied: “Nooo”

So for the next ten minutes we debated the significance of the ‘Teddy’ until coming across a couple of young women who had stopped to rest. Before I could stop her, Ann again blurted out: “Have you lost a Teddy Bear?”. As I was thinking: “Have you lost your mind!?”, one of the women exclaimed: “Oh my God, Crumpy’s gone!!”.

Turns out the young women were visiting from Wales and Crumpy was a fund-raising bear. For every documented mile he traveled, people would donate money to a charity. He’s been to Thailand and now New Zealand and thanks to Ann will have many more adventures and do more good for the Charity.

Score one for Saint Ann. We made two new friends today (three counting Crumpy).

Ann finds "Crumby"

 

...and Crumby is reunited with his owner

As for the rest of the trip-the weather was cloudless, the colors of the volcanos were amazing-reds, blacks, browns, yellows and more. We ended up having breakfast by “Emerald Lake” a part of one of the old craters. It was a stunning blue-green, with steam coming out of vents on the side. Our time on trail including a short stop for food: almost eight hours and my feet agree this was a long hike.

At the first summit

At the second summit before heading down to the lakes

Oh my!

The only problem with going down to the lakes...is going back up!

View of the lake area

Just....wow!

Volcano vent steaming in the background

Time to leave the danger zone

Mt Doom in The Hobbit, more commonly known as Mt Rupehu. This peak erupted as recently as 1978

An amazing landscape, an incredible adventure. 12 miles roundtrip and 6000 vertical feet (up and down)

All in all another amazing day in “Enzed”

Mountain Biking

Just finished a 30K mountain bike ride from Huka Falls to Aratiatia along the Waikato River.
Tomorrow-we’re heading for the alpine, cross country hike across the Tongariro pass
For tonight, aspirin and more wine…

Beautiful view coming into Lake Taupo area.

Mountain Biking down the Waikato River

Mt Bike, warm day, backpack. You know the drill

 

 

Ahhhhhh…

…and wow! Polynesian massage good!

We had a very lovely morning being pampered. First three different hot pools from natural hot springs/mineral waters. Warm, Hot and Very Hot! Beautiful scenery right on the lake with steam vents in the background. Then an hour long massage that was one of the best ever. Great bday present.

Oh yeah...!

Afterward we jumped into our tiny car (the guy at the front desk of the motel said; “could that car get any smaller!?”) and headed south to Lake Taupo.

That’s where we are now getting ready for tomorrow’s adventures.

Stay tuned.

Smoking’ Rocks and The Luge

We had a really fun day today. It started with a six mile round trip hike through the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. In short, it is where a huge volcanic eruption occurred in the late 1800’s that essentially wiped out a six mile long area. All life/plants were completely wiped out. Today, it is lush terrain fully grown over by trees and ferns and marked by hot springs, several small lakes that are thermal fed and a huge lake at the end of the valley that the volcano created. The geology was fascinating and the hike was delightful.

Something like six miles through an area that was destroyed by volcanic activity 100 years ago. Today, it is a lush landscape completely with steam vents and hot springs

A steam vent over the sulphur spring

Steaming hot spring fed lake

The lake in the distance was our destination and the halfway point of the hike

After that, we still had time to go to Skyline Adventures to do the downhill luge run. Basically, you take a full size gondola up a hill, just like skiing in the Sierra’s. At the top you get in a very small three wheel cart and “bomb” down a luge run, complete with banked turns. How we kept from flying off the hill I’ll never know. We each did three runs, including the “Advanced” run. I dared Ann to keep up with me and you know what? She did!

Tomorrow-a Polynesian massage in the morning that Ann is giving me(us) for my birthday and then further south to Lake Taupo for a couple days.

In Rotorua

Yes, that’s a place. We had a nice walk along the river in Hamilton this morning, then headed out to Rotorua. We’re now staying at The Artimis (a motor inn) for the next two days while we explore the geysers and other volcanic activity in this area. In general, it smells vaguely sulphuric most of the time.

BUT, that didn’t keep us out of the Belgian Bar for a beer and after walking past the Fat Dog, settling on a great Ceasar salad and wood fired pizza downtown.

Fat Dog! (Beer that is)

On our way here, we passed through Tirau, which is know for it's clever corrugated signs

The whole town is made of corrugated tin...

Even some of the stores are made from the stuff...

Land Cruising (Finally)!

Yep, we finally left Charisma and got in the car to go south.

Today we drove four hours and are south of Auckland in a city called Hamilton. Seems like six hours when you’re on the wrong side of the road at 100 km/hour on a small two lane, flying what seems like just inches past huge trucks coming the other way that barely fit on the road. But we made it. We’re staying in a nice little motorcourt called the Colonial. Walked down the street for Sushi for dinner (after enjoying a couple of “Charismas” on our front porch-yes we brought essential supplies like rum and ginger beer) and now Ann is planning our next leg.

Heading south past Auckland

Our car at the Colonial Motel in HamiltonWe took a walk along the river in Hamilton. Beautiful town.

 

We took a walk along the river at Hamilton. Beautiful city.

The botanical gardens...

...botanical gardens were gorgeous...

...and an amazing attention to detail

 

We’ll see what tomorrow brings…we’re planning to be gone a week or so as we loop across the south end of the north island.

Charisma’s New Clothes

Happy day!  Charisma has new clothes.  Sails actually, but same, same. (Sails are from Doyle Sails, Aukland, New Zealand.  I have used Doyle in San Francisco and have found them to be of high quality and responsive.  The new sails have lot of nice “offshore” features and I’m feeling good about them.  Will be great to do a shakedown and see how they do)

Starting at the bowsprit. The new yankee jib. We also have a big 130% jib, but this is our new working sail.

Next one back; the staysail (stays'l). Looks similar, but a close look will note that this one is on a boom in the mid-foredeck whereas the previous pic shows the jib on the end of the bowsprit.

And bringing up the rear, the new mainsail. All three are nice looking and we can't wait to get out on the water and try them out.

And…Ann is making some new “anchoring sails”, better known as the bimini and hatch covers.

The sewing machine is getting a workout. Here's the bimini being assembled in the main cabin. Where do we sit you ask? Don't ask.

More projects-I think I finally fixed a leak (knock on wood) that has been vexing us for a year now.  I thought it was the traveller, but turns out it seems to have been the aft handrail.

Yep, another "not fun" project. Taking out the overhead to get to the handrail bolt that needed tightening.

I loosened the bolts on each side of the cabin holding the handrail down, pried them up 1/4 inch or so, squeezed 3M 4600 underneath and tightened the whole thing back down.  Two nights with rain squalls and no leaks so far!

And lastly (for now)-Ann noticed a suspicious leak in the head porthole.  This one looked different.  It was coming in from under the flange that seals the porthole instead of the “more standard” leak through the porthole itself.  This project was low on the list until a lot of other stuff got fixed, but guess what?  A lot of other stuff is done, so today I went after this one.  Good thing.  Ann called it.  A leak that went up under the flange and was rotting the balsa core underneath.  I have taken out the entire porthole (not fun, took three hours) and removed a bunch of balsa core under the upper side of the opening.  I removed about two inches of wet wood and am going to let it dry out then squeeze some epoxy with filler up into the void before putting the whole thing back together.

Another ugly project, but you have to watch leaks as they only get worse over time...Yes, I am holding the porthole that was once embedded in the cabin where there is now just a hole...(click on the picture to see more detail)

The Sea Beckons…

…Well, we’re a month and a half from leaving, but the projects are winding down and I was sitting in the cockpit this evening looking south and seeing the Southern Cross.  It was definitely calling out to us.

Lots of smallish projects are now getting done.

-Engine fuel injectors were overhauled and installed today

-Dinghy motor picked up and is being “tuned”

-Ann is sewing some hatch covers.  Hopefully they will work so when it rains we can leave the hatches open for ventilation.

-Ann is refining the bimini to give us shade while in the cockpit.  Several other cruisers have noticed the refinements and are getting jealous.  We’ll have to add some pictures in the future, but suffice to say, it’s made from “shade-cloth” so it’s somewhat see through and we can leave it on while sailing, but it blocks the sun while we’re in the cockpit.

-We had two symetrical leaks-one in the galley and one in the quarterberth that have been driving us crazy.  Every time it rains, water pours through magic leaks in the ceiling.  I’ve been thinking they were from the traveller and have been avoiding what would be a big job to pull that off and fix it.  But today I finally just started taking apart the overhead and tracked them down (I hope) to the aft end of the handrail.  Both sides were loose.  I’m hoping that by lossening the bolts, pulling the handrail up 1/4 inch and injecting 3M 4600 underneath and tightening the bolts back down, I’ve fixed the leak.  I don’t want to pull the whole rail as that is a HUGE project.  We’ll see with the next rainfall whether it worked.

-Lots of other smallish stuff that we’re checking off the list.  We’re so close to finished now that we’ll likely head out on a “Land Tour” later this week.  We’ll probably take 10 days to do a loop of the North Island-heading south from here and looping around and back up the west coast.  Stay tuned on that.

Bob Geeks Out

Okay, maybe not something new, Bob geeking out and all, but he has no time to blog so Ann has stepped up.  (And he is making me dinner. :-). )

As Bob shared last night, he was very close to finishing the install on the new navigation instruments just as we needed to get ready to go celebrate our friend’s birthday. Today Bob COMPLETED the project! (And you thought that cheering was for the new Pope, Francis I).  What a job! And when I asked Bob if he made sure to cross it off of the list he informed me that it was another job that was not on the project list.  Sigh.  But oh joy!  It is done and Bob is now playing with all of the new capabilities.  At 6 pm an alarm went off.  Testing.  At sunset the system beeped.  A moment ago Bob showed me how he could set a scrolling function at various time intervals – 10 sec, 20 sec, etc.  Like I said, Bob is geeking out!  Hooray!

Getting the new "stack" ready to install at the helm.

Read 'em and weep! Each one can display 9 different screens of custom data. Why you ask? Why the hell not!

Personally I was tired of jobs that were partial jobs not allowing for the joy of completion, so last night I made up my own job list for today. (See, Greg – my son – I too am working!). I had five things on my list and I completed four of them!  Oops, one was done poorly – putting the third coat of cetol on boards that we lash the fuel and water cans to during passage.  Sounds easy right?  Remember how I mentioned how I hate to paint?  Well, in my haste to move onto the second job of the day I painted too fast and there are bubbles on one board.  This means that someone needs to sand it and repaint it – slowly, to reduce bubbles.  (I am not yet volunteering to be that someone!)

But I did get two good coats of Carnuba wax on the Charisma name. I had been waiting for it to dry well since we had it repainted while on the hard.  Now both sides shine!  My other chores were interior cleaning chores and not as visible but still allowed me to cross off a job. Yea!

I also got to cross off the “polish stainless” project!  Phew! My fingers are tired!

 

Almost Done…

…with the electronics project.  Today was spent cleaning up the installation in the nav station and then pulling new cables through the aft end of the cabin and up into the binnacle (by the wheel) for the other three units.  All was going exceptionally well until…wait for it…the hole in the stainless steel base plate from the binnacle where the instruments mount, down through the cockpit floor was too small and the cable wouldn’t pull through.  The only option was to completely take apart the “cage” around the binnacle that the cable needed to go through in order to get routed under the deck and drill it out.

All the crap is out of the lazarette so I can cram myself in there. You can see the steel protector cage for the binnacle laying on its side and the cable on the floor of the cockpit.

There's no going back once you cut the end off the cable! But it's the only way to thread it through some of the tight holes.

Not recommended in the installation guide (which was written by the lawyers)

I won’t bore everyone with the blow by blow description except to say it was a typical boat project and didn’t want to come apart.  Two hours later, some penetrating oil, some banging, swearing and lots of pushing, pulling and tugging and it finally came loose.  Once that was done it was fairly easy to pull the cable down through and under the deck.

Then, while sitting inside of a 3 foot, by 2 1/2 foot by 3 1/2 foot box (i.e. the lazarette under the cockpit), I finished the wiring part of the job.  Strip the ends of 10 tiny wires (somewhere around #20 or smaller), tin the ends of each of the tiny wires (with electrical solder), crimp them onto ring connectors and then attach them to a “bus bar” and the cabling part of the project is done.

I couldn’t quite finish because we were going out to a birthday dinner for one of our dockmates (Happy Birthday Charmaine) and I ran out of time, so the final install is tomorrow.  But, I did temporarily attach an instrument to test it and it works!!

So, over $2000 of new electronics that I bought on a hope and a dream that I could get it connected (without having to spend $100/hour for a tech to tell me the nightmare scenario- that it wasn’t meant to work with my old system) is actually working.  The bonus is that it works much better than the crappy B&G system (professionally recommended by and installed at Svendsen’s in Alameda, CA) ever did, even when it was brand new just four years ago.

I think I’m going to sleep well tonight.

P.S.-For a break for those of you who are tired of hearing about boat work-here’s something a little different (click to enlarge photo)…

We only buy our eggs from happy chickens...;-)