The Chief of Navidamu that is and we’re going to buy it. More below, but first a description of another fascinating and fun day.

Chief Moses and the war club he's carving.

We have been wanting to get back to Navidamu (also known as the “third village” since it is across the lagoon and not easy to get to). An opportunity came up to go over on one of their longboats and we jumped on it. It was supposed to leave the beach at our anchorage at 0700, but since we’re on Fiji time it turned out there was a big catch of fish over there and the boat was working the catch and didn’t show up until 0830. We had almost given up on the day, but thank goodness we didn’t!

We had a bit of a wild ride across the lagoon. It was very windy and some good size waves had built up, but it was downwind so we didn’t get splashed, just shaken a bit. As we slid over the reef at Navidamu and onto the beach we could tell that was going to be a fun day. The women and children were on the beach cleaning several dozen fish and all were shouting, “Bob, Ann, welcome!” Talk about feeling welcome! Seems we were still remembered after our half day there a month ago.

Our main reason for going was to get to know some of the wonderful people we met when we visited last, but before we could just wander through the village we thought it best to visit the Chief and get his permission and blessing. We brought some kava and a few gifts (various canned and packaged food, balls for the kids, fishing hooks and other useful stuff that’s not easy to get way out in the islands) and stopped in at the Chief’s hut. We were not even in the door when we were greeted, “Bob, Ann, come in, come in!” We had a nice sit down with Chief Moses and received his blessing to go wherever in the village we wanted. On the way out the door a war club that he was carving caught my attention and I asked him about it. He explained how they were once used, even striking a menacing pose. I was impressed and a little intimidated and we left at that point with me wishing I had asked him more. But – we were on a mission!

Turned out that part of our mission was a real Fijian haircut for me! Long story how we got to a haircut, but as the pictures will tell, I ended up sitting on a pallet outside one of the huts with a dozen children looking on getting a haircut with comb, scissors and razor blade by one of the villagers. I pretty much held my breath, closed my eyes and relied on Ann to make sure things didn’t get out of hand. You know, it came out really well. My only complaint is that I didn’t get a lollie when it was over.

Bob's haircut (sitting on a pallet).

Haircut complete, it was time for Ann to enchant the little children as she always does. Today she brought a game of Pocket Farkel and played with them until they were in hysterics. Why hysterics? Because Ann was teaching them in Fijian! Yes, as the game progressed she would ask them how to say stuff like, “Four of a kind”, or “Roll”, etc. They would give her the Fijian word, then spell it, then laugh themselves silly as she attempted to say the word. The adults in the room were all so impressed and told me how great it was for Ann to do this since it encouraged the kids to speak English more.

Teaching Farkle

Another part of our mission today was to reconnect with Mattei. He is a very funny (and influential) member of the village. For some reason he and I just hit it off last time we were there. We had a little “back and forth” joking when we first met at which point he paused, thought a moment and then laughed and said I could not leave until I came and had kava with him. Partly it’s that we’re almost the same age. He’s six months older, but I have 29 more teeth left than he does. Anyway, after some bantering he invited us back to his house today for lunch. It was a delight and we found even more common ground. We both agreed that Fulanga was paradise. The difference is that he’s almost always lived here and I’ve been waiting years to find it. My favorite quote from him about sums our agreement up, “My brother lives in Suva and he has a nice house, a car, a television and many other things. But all these things do not make him happy. I live here with very little and am very happy”. Way to go Mattei!

Mattai and Tua in their home.

Once we finished lunch it was time to make the walk back to the main village and then on back to Charisma. Why walk? It got so rough no one wanted to drive the boat and we didn’t really want to get soaking wet. But, before we left I was feeling like I might have been able to buy the war club the Chief was carving. I was concerned I might offend him so instead I asked Mattei – he is close to the Chief – and he said to go ahead and ask. Actually his exact response was, “Yes, go ask him now, you just gave him kava! Good time to ask!”

So I did.

It turned out the Chief was very flattered and then went on to tell us about how he has been carving for over 35 years (to put his kids through high school and university) and then gave us a history of how the war club was used and even demonstrating it, showing us how if he missed with the club he would use a separate throwing club. Whew! I wouldn’t want to make him angry. Anyway, he said he would complete it by next week and we could come back and have it. Wow! Our own war club made by a Fijian Island Chief!

Quite a day.