And I do mean ON the reef.

Today being Saturday in Fiji, is the day everyone in the village fishes or otherwise prepares food for Sunday’s feast. Ed from Quixotic volunteered his dinghy to take Tai fishing and I was invited. We did ourselves proud in the long run, but it was a rocky start.

We (especially Ed who was risking his dinghy) had no idea that we were not headed out the pass to fish, but actually over the reef. It was high tide so while seemingly possible, not something we cruisers would ever do. That reef system is ¼ mile of jagged coral that is partially uncovered at low tide. We were fishing at high tide, but it was a little harrowing and disconcerting when we got to the “big rock” in the channel and Tai pointed NE and said; “Go there”. Ed’s response agreed with mine. “There”?!! But “there” we went since we trust Tai to know. I don’t think we had much more than a foot of water under the propeller but we made it all the way out to the reef and set the anchor just inside the waves breaking on the outside of the reef. Then Tai taught us how to bait and cast the handlines. Basically, you put a LOT of bait (cut up goatfish is the bait of choice), bend a little piece of lead sheet around the line for some extra weight and then swing the baited hook over your head in a circle letting a little more out as it spins up until you have about six feet of line out. Then you let go and hope the whole thing doesn’t catch on something in the boat or one of your fishing partners. Actually it worked pretty well most of the time.

We only stayed out on the reef about 45 minutes at peak high tide. That’s the best fishing and also about all the time you have before the tide drops and potentially strands you until the next high tide. So, our score: One small grouper, one large (about 8 lb) something or another. I think maybe a type of sweetlips which is close to a grouper and a very large fish on my line that jumped and I lost him. We also lost three hooks and about 150 of line to the coral rocks.

So, the tide’s going down and Tai decides it’s time to go to the other side of the reef and troll. To Ed’s and my amazement, Tai showed us a little cut right through the reef to the outside. Before we knew it we had gone from four feet of water inside the jagged rocks, through the breakers and into deep water. All in about 25 meters. I never would have considered it, but…local knowledge!

Outside the reef it was rough and windy today. Not good diving weather, but good trolling. We added to our fish count with a good size spanish mackeral that Tai caught trolling the handline with one of my homemade lures – a red and yellow squid pattern. Then the big one. I hooked up on a good size skipjack tuna and we landed him. Somewhere in the 20 lb range. Happy day!

So armed with a good morning’s catch we headed back. Tai was kind enough to give Ed the spanish mackerel and Ed invited Ann and I for dinner. Nila did a fantastic job with the fish. Deeelicious!

And the bonus for the day – Ann made two loaves of wheat bread. Yum. It’s such a treat to have something homemade and fresh at this point in our trip here since after three weeks we’re running out of fresh food. Now we need to improvise. For instance, we bought a pumpkin. It’s large enough we’re planning three meals out of it. Curried pumpkin, roasted pumpkin and potatoes, and something else we haven’t decided yet.

We also moved anchorages. We were in a very secluded spot, but for the next four or so days there is predicted to be higher than normal winds, so we ducked back into the village anchorage where we started several weeks ago. It’s very protected and the biggest advantage is it’s close to the beach where we dinghy in so we don’t get wet blasting 1 miles across the lagoon in wind and choppy waves to get here. We’re just 150 meters from shore. Convenient since we’re going into the village tomorrow and Monday (it’s quilting day now that Ann has the weaving ladies making a quilt). I might wander down and try and see if Mini will let me carve a bowl with him.

Tomorrow – church and the Sunday feast.