Yup, I went diving again today. Best dive yet. The conditions were outstanding and the water was especially clear and almost unnaturally blue. We went outside the pass, but this time turned to the right and dropped in the water on the NE side. Turns out it’s got more interesting topography. Lots of dips and turns and some almost caves and the coral is really alive and colorful. Just fantastic.

The best part of the dive was coming around an underwater hill at about 50 foot depth, seeing an undercut and when we were about 10 feet away a huge sea turtle swam out. OK, we probably interrupted his afternoon nap, but it was a spectacular display as he slowly swam out 10 feet in front of us and arced across, up and then down and away until he disappeared into the deep blue. Breathtaking.

On these “cruiser dives” we only have the one set of gear (looks like we might be able to borrow some extra gear in the next few days for Ann to get to experience such an amazing place) so Ann has been going into the village to show the ladies there how to quilt. But today she spent the mid-day exploring our new anchorage on the paddleboard. Then after going all the way around the bay, she jumped in for a snorkel around some of the little motus near Charisma and – surprised a sea turtle! Wow, sea turtles dancing all the way around for us today!

Tomorrow is Saturday in Fiji and it’s the day everyone is out gathering/hunting for food for Sunday feast. I’m going fishing with some men from the village (at 0700, ugh) and Ann is going to go fishing with the ladies. We’ll go outside the reef hoping for some pelagics and the ladies will fish the shallows for goatfish and other reef fish that they will net. Others in the village will be collecting food out of the gardens, gathering and preparing coconuts and hopefully some will get clams. One of my favorite foods here is clams in coconut milk cooked in the lovo (in ground) oven. Yum.

A last word on our new anchoring spot. We’re the only boat here.

Charisma's private bay.

The water alternates between ice blue and turquoise depending on the tide. Those colors signify depths in the low to high teens. Charisma is in about 15 feet over sand. Last night the stars were so amazing we were speechless. Not a cloud in the sky. A 360 degree view with a horizon punctuated by an occasional coconut tree on one of the motus sprinkled near us in the lagoon.

One sign of how enthralled we are with this place and its people is that we’re going to run out of wine and beer soon. Yup, the unthinkable is near, yet we’re staying longer. We just can’t make ourselves leave. Once the alcohol runs out, (shudder!) we’ll likely go native…so stay tuned, but don’t worry we still have enough rum to last most of the rest of the season, so Charismas at sunset will NOT be missed.