(If you want to see “exactly” where we are, put the following lat/lon into Google earth 19 degrees, 08 minutes.934 seconds south; 178 degrees, 34 minutes.037 seconds west)
Heading in for sevusevu with my sulu on.
I’ll admit, both of us have been concerned that by going back to the most beautiful place we’ve ever been might be a mistake. Would it be possible to repeat the experience or would we be disappointed?
Our welcoming committee on the beach.
I can say that while it’s not exactly the same, Fulunga is still a magical place. Beautiful beyond description with the most delightful people you have ever met.
The first thing you see coming into the village are the children and you fall in love all over again.
While we had to stay on the boat yesterday fixing the broken wind vane steering system, word apparently spread through the village that we were here. Little did we know that folks would even remember us, but when we walked into the village this morning they were waiting for us. Even the children here all were able to yell; “Bob, Ann, welcome back!” It brought tears to our eyes.
Ann, as you know, is quite shy but still managed this selfie with the kids about 1.5 minutes into our visit.
Also a funny anecdote – Turns out that I’m known here as “Chief Bob”. Yup, almost everyone who greeted us used that as part of the greeting. We were wondering where the heck that came from when through some careful questioning we found that it was because last year I sat on the Chief’s throne outside his hut. Now, in my defense, I asked the Chief’s grandson (Mattei, who is in his ’30s and knows better) if it would be OK if I sat on the stone “throne” outside the chief’s hut. Mattei told me it would be fine. Knowing that this could be a touchy issue I asked again; “Are you sure it’s OK?” He reassured me it would be fine and I thusly sat on the throne. Well, EVERYONE in the village noticed and I’m now known – and I should note, fondly – as Chief Bob. I’m currently trying to leverage this with Ann, but she’s not buying it. Oh well, at least I’m a bit of a Chief to the village.
Speaking of the Chief, he is much better this year. Last year he was very much under the weather and well into his 80’s there was a lot of concern for his health. This year however he is looking ten years younger than his age and we were very fortunate to be able to do sevusevu with him by ourselves. It was a wonderful experience and through a translator we exchanged greetings and stories. Fortunately (I think) he was not aware of the Chief Bob thing. I mean, his father was a cannibal and all.
Sevusevu with the Chief and Mele.
The changes here that I alluded to are good ones. The villagers have set up a fruit stand and are selling fruit to the “yachties” to make a little money which goes to fund the school and other good things that help the village. We (all the yachties, not just Ann and I) told them they could make some money doing this and we would be really happy since there is no other store within a hundred sea miles from here. They have also consolidated their wood carvings into a store of sorts – it’s really more of a lean-to, but it has a sign! Again, a way for them to take advantage of their beautiful carvings.
The "Fruit Market"...
...and its little volunteers.
Other than that, the village is exactly the same and the people remain as unselfish, happy and wonderful as last year. The little girls cannot keep from holding our hands and smiling up adoringly at us. As we walk through the villages shouts of “Bula! Welcome back!” We, of course, remember them fondly and we are thrilled and stunned that we are as special to them. Fulunga….so special.
One view of the village.
Tomorrow we go to church which we’re really looking forward to. I think I mentioned last year that the singing brought years to my eyes. They sing with all their hearts in the true sense of the phrase.
Also, Ann has been working on a project that she can do with the little girls in the village and has settled on a crafts project. I donated my watercolor paper and colored pencils and she’s going to make “woven hearts” that the kids can decorate. We’ll let you know how that goes, so stay tuned.
It must be so nice to be so far from home, yet welcomed “home” by such wonderful people. And, wow, what an honor to be known as Chief Bob! What guy wouldn’t want to have that title!
Can’t wait to hear how the crafts project goes, Ann. I’m sure it will be a lot of fun….for you and the kids! Brings back lots of great memories of you teaching the kids (and parents like me) at CTK how to make quilts!
P.S. Speaking of quilts, I have the patriotic table quilt you made for me on my table in honor of Independence Day. It typically graces my table all summer long — a continual reminder of the thoughtful and generous person you have always been. <3
This gave me goosebumps! Look forward to seeing photos!
Sounds like fun!! Too bad you don’t have a picture in the chiefs chair.
Bula! Well, that’s a bummer when the help, Winston, decided he’s not doing this anymore. Probably thought he wasn’t getting enough r-e-s-p-e-c-t.-! Personally, I’ve always liked bolts better than welds anyway. Of course, they do add a little more drag. The good news is you got to experience adventure sailing in the old school manner. The better news is it was only for a short time…hopefully.
So Chief Bob, are you the war chief, the everyday chief, the honorary chief, or just what? Because of your new station, if you get a gift do you have to return the favor with a more impressive one? Do you get to wear special headgear, carry a special knife or scepter, drape yourself in special robes, or what? Can you negotiate treaties with the U.S.?
I think it’s truly wonderful that you are finding the islands and people as wonderful as you remember. Maybe there is a paradise after all. May peace and joy reign throughout your Chiefdom!