By Ann

It finally happened! I have solved the mystery. We have been in Fulunga for 8 weeks now and I have been going out of my way to meet and enjoy the villagers. Of course this is complicated by the fact that there are three villages. Helping with the health screenings in the second and third villages (we consider the village closest to the anchorage, Maunicake, to be the first village) provided a great opportunity for us to meet the great people in the second and third villages. And we have made two additional trips to the third village (Naividamu) and really connected with those folks. The choir competition the other day in the second village refreshed our contacts with the villagers there.

I have really been working on the first village, Maunicake. Maunicake is the village up from the anchorage where we have spent so much time. And felt so very welcome. I love wandering through the village and being welcomed into their homes to have tea and share stories. I love trying to figure out all of the connections; who is related or married to whom. Maybe I should have been a sociologist.

We did not help with the health screenings in Maunicake but Batai, the nurse, was willing to let me see their records. I LOVE seeing names and birthdates. The rest of the information is just gravy. Add to this information, having access to the village census for January – June 2014 and I had a lot of information waiting to be addressed. It was calling to me. So I took the plunge and decided to see who I knew, who I didn’t know, and how each person was related to the others in the village.

It has taken a lot of work and some fun conversations with Tara – “Queen of all Knowledge About Fuluga”, as I like to call her. From her perspective Tara will tell you that she needed her husband Joe (fondly known by Bob and I as” Just -in-Time Joe” or “Cowboy Joe”) to respond accurately to my questions. This really all started when I talked the young girls of the village into make me a map. Next I needed to know about the people in the houses-that’s where Tara and Joe came in.

Part of Ann's notes showing the lineage of the village.

So armed with a village census, a health screening listing of those who came to be screened and my base knowledge of the village I started working on a family tree-starting with the chief. Just about everyone has some connection to the chief and I was determined to figure it out. In the process I have uncovered many interesting connections. I love it. So I found a big piece of paper and started to map it out. Boy did the questions arise. I have now had three sessions with Tara and Joe. Today’s list of questions was my smallest list and had 15 questions about people. My questions have been answered and I have to apply them to my Family Tree.

But the most exciting part about today was getting to fill in the blanks. There were four people that I just could not put my finger on because I had not met them! How did that happen? I have visited the village almost every day for most of the last eight weeks. Maybe I had their names wrong! A conversation with Tara, Joe and Tai (another very informed villager) yesterday uncovered the meanings of people’s names. And confirmed that there were four people I had not met (out of about 85) in Maunicake. Well today I met them!

After getting the answers from Tara on my 15 questions (can’t ever guarantee that is it) I asked to meet these last four folks. And my guide was Tara’s 8-year old grandson, Jone (pronounced Johnny). Jone’s English is not really strong so Tara explained the mission to him in Fijian. As Jone and I walked to the first house I discussed our route and he clearly named the four people and the order in which we were going to proceed. Things are going well! Our first stop was at the oldest man in the village, Tomu.

Tomu

Tomu was inside (of course, that’s why I’ve never seen him!) sitting in a comfortable chair enjoying the afternoon light. Jone’s English was not complete enough to introduce me so I just forged ahead saying hello. Fortunately another young woman, Uni, came in and provided translation. I had already taken some photos and shared them with Tomu. They love their pictures! Uni did a great job helping translate and Tomu was delighted to meet me. Tomu will be 98 on December 22nd. I asked Uni to tell Tomu that I also celebrate a December birthday and I received a big smile in return. I told him I would think of him on the 22nd. Wow, how do you live this long in such a primitive society. Other than lacking mobility he seemed pretty happy. Of course Uni’s 18 month old son was playing with a walker outside which may have played into Tomu’s housebound condition. How thrilling to meet the oldest man on the island. I am hoping to go back with more questions but Jone and I were on a mission.

Our next stop was at Koro’s. Koro is the wife of the chief’s right-hand man who is 72. Unfortunately there was no translator available to determine her true age. When Jone and I arrived Koro was making some pancakes. She was sitting in the kitchen house very near a hot fire, flipping pancakes. She did not seem pleased by the interruption that Jone represented and I don’t think she saw me. So I went around to the kitchen door and stepped in and introduced myself. Koro spoke no English so I went right into taking pictures. I wish you could see these people light up when you show them their picture on the back of your camera. Of course I know to say, “Dredre”, which means smile but not everyone believes me or follows the request. But Koro did. And when she saw her picture she was thrilled and smiled more. Two down, two to go.

Koro

Our next stop was Lagilagi. Lagilagi is the grandfather of one of the boys we met last year, Tua. Tua was in the yard cleaning up so I asked him to come with me to meet his grandfather —who he was named after. Lagilagi was sitting on the porch enjoying the lovely late afternoon light. Unfortunately he did not speak English but Tua has a little and I proceeded to take some cute pictures that again, thrilled a very old man. Smiles come easily sometimes. Especially when your grandson is at your side.

Lagilagi

And our final stop, Pu Leba. Pu actually means grandmother in Fijian, but Leba is Jone’s great-great aunt. And she also was somewhat confused by this silly Pailangi speaking English. But a quick photo snapped and shared brought many more smiles and “Vinakas”. Leba was sitting alone in a very clean house that she was actually sweeping as we arrived. At this point I had gained a friend, a little girl named Vuli who was happy to be part of the parade to Leba’s. So pictures here included Jone and Vuli and many smiles.

Pu Lemba (Pu is short for grandma)

So there you have it. I have now met all of the Maunicake residents that are currently on the island. I am hoping to take a translator back with me next week and find out more of the stories behind their beautiful faces and smiles!