We had cocktails with John and Lisa on Orcinius, supposedly to watch the sunset, but it was cloudy.  After the sun set all the clouds went away and now it’s a totally clear night, but I digress.

So, Lisa says; “Let’s go to the White Stork Tavern.  I just want to have a beer there”. Hmm.  The Lonely Planet Guide says to avoid the White Stork as it is the most likely place in Savusavu for there to be a late night altercation.  OK, it’s not late night yet, let’s go.

So, we dinghy ashore, find our way up the rickety wharf in the dark and make it to the street.  A right turn, watching out for the broken rebar and potholes in the sidewalk and we’re on our way.  The White Stork is just on the edge of town – as a bar like this should be.

We get to the flashing blue and white electric sign, take a deep breath and walk inside.  Heading for the dim light through the first open door, we start in only to hear a deep voice very close in the dark mutter; “The white man’s kava is the next door”.  Just then a large man steps out and beckons us to follow down the alley to the next door.  As we go by the first door we can see a group of men around a kava bowl.  OK, this is not “the bar”.  At the next door, we turn in.  “This is the women’s, this is the men’s”, our guide directs, then sends us through a door and disappears.  Inside there’s blasting music and strobe lights.  No furniture, just a cement floor and some picnic tables around the perimeter of the room.  The strobes are illuminating a couple dozen – mostly 20-something men and a couple of women – standing around drinking beer.  Sometimes known as white man’s kava.  Some were slumped against the wall.  The night almost over for them already at around 8 PM.

Well, what’s the saying?  In for a nickel, in for a dime?  Something like that.  Anyway, we’re committed here, so we move on up to the bar and order our beers feeling very, very out of place.  But, this is Fiji.  Everyone is soooo nice.  Actually what would have been a not fun experience in a lot of other countries turned out OK.  Folks started shaking our hands, asking where we were from and saying they hoped we liked Fiji and asking if we were having a good time.  “Yes we are!”, we said most emphatically and now we’re best friends with everyone.  We even learned the “cool” handshake and when we got it right, everyone was howling with joy that we made the effort to “fit in”.

While we were talking with our new found friends, we couldn’t help noticing the sign on the wall; “No Spitting Carelessly”.  Well, that makes sense don’t you think?

On the way out they asked if we wanted to stop for some kava.  “Maybe not tonight”.

Fun in the big city.  The White Stork Tavern.  It’s a different sort of place.  Another kind of adventure to add to our bag.  Without exception though, nice people.  It’s what we love about this place.