Today had three or so, highlights. Mighty Mo was later in the day, so I’ll get to that in a bit.
For now, I’m sitting in the cockpit under a full moon that’s reflecting off an absolutely still lagoon with the island silhouetted in the background.
We woke to still water as well. It was an amazing early morning as the water was still and the water is so clear it felt like you could reach out and touch the sandy bottom. I took some pictures of the anchor chain snaking off in the distance along the bottom as well as a couple of stingrays that were out for their morning cruise.
This was followed by banana pancakes! Yay!
Then we went for a snorkel. The coral here is just OK, but the fish population and diversity is amazing. We saw fish that we have not yet seen anywhere else.
Snorkeling done, we then went in to the island for a visit with Matea and Mo. They were waiting for us and anxious to show us a new path to the other side of the island they had been working on. Um, OK (knowing this meant bushwacking behind two machete wielding Fijians). You learn to keep your distance when they swing those things. Anyway, it’s always fun going through deep jungle and then coming out on the other side where the ocean waves are crashing against the shoreline.
On the way back Mo disappeared. He’s always barefoot (how do they do that-even over the sharp coral?!) so you can’t hear him walking behind you. Then you turn to say something and no one’s there. We were almost back to their hut when we heard a whistle. Turning around we could see Mo walking along the path carrying something. As he came closer we saw that he was (very carefully) carrying a huge coconut crab. Mighty Mo had caught Godzilla the crab. These things are huge and their claws can saw open a coconut, so you know what kind of damage they could do to your fingers. Awesome! Then we found out. This was OUR crab. They were going to cook it for us and send us back to Charisma with dinner. Wow. Coconut crab is a delicacy that we have only barely tried once. There was so little of it as it was passed around we only got a hint at its glory. Now we had our very own. Back at the hut, they prepared a pot to boil the crab. While we were waiting for the water to heat they showed us how to clean and prepare it. Simple. One of the unique things about coconut crab is a pouch on the inside of their tail that holds a buttery oil that they collect. It’s literally coconut butter. Delicious when scooped out and spread on the meat (and a homemade English muffin as it turns out).
So, crab cooked (this beautiful blue crab turned bright red – that’s how you know it is done cooking), they sent us off to our evening. We had no idea just how delicious it would be. I have to say this may be my new favorite of all foods. Too bad because coconut crabs are slow growing and on most islands, it’s not good to take them as they get depleted quickly. Out here on Naqelelevu there’re only two people on the island and they are very respectful of their resource. We saw these crabs everywhere as they are not over-harvested here so we didn’t feel guilty about eating this one.
Luscious dinner and the best part-the two of us could barely eat half the crab (with the coconut butter-like stuff, it’s so rich), so we have more for tomorrow. We’re thinking either crab omelet or crab cocktail with Waldorf Salad. Hmm, we’ll have to see.
I know you’re all tired of hearing this, but it WAS just another day in paradise. However, we’re so glad we’re here experiencing the richness of this simple life.
Oh my gosh ! that sounds amazing! and no we are not tired of reading about how amazing it is! So grateful that I get to share in your awesome experiences…and it is true every day just gets better!! Love you guys! Off to get Emily to her registration…Jackson to open hell week of H20 polo!! xxoo
I hope to see a photo of the coconut crab in the future added to your blog. sounds fantastic
I just never get tired of reading about your incredible experiences. It is so amazing to hear how simple and enjoyable life can be in paradise! Reading about the coconut crab made me hungry. What a treat! And I love it when we are looking at the same full moon. Kind of makes the world feel a bit smaller like “we’re all in this together.” Thanks for all the great stories.
I’ve had a few Internet problems myself and have heard of lots of other kinds of problems but I think you win the award for strangest. So, when Ann jumped in neeked did the fish all scatter in fear? J
I think that Curly dude’s very wise advice can be applied to a lot of situations. Glad to hear the mana is still working. Great VFR “flying” into the lagoon.
The banana pancakes do indeed sound yummy. But about that greenish radioactive glow thing – you sure the navy didn’t do a little testing around these islands in the 50s/60s?
How come Ann does all the anchor diving? About these Mo & Curly guys. Did everyone leave the island because of the green glowing water? I’m not sure I’d head off into the jungle with two dudes good at swinging machetes. They don’t have any pots big enough to hold your heads sitting around, do they?
Take pictures of your low lying, little island. Fifty years from now, maybe less, it will probably be submerged. The salt water battery resister trick is pretty cool. I thought maybe they were running through light bulbs.
There you go. When you retire from the sailing gig you can open up the Coconut Crab Cafe – banana pancakes for breakfast, of course. Charisma cocktails before dinner. Ann’s cookies for dessert.
Enjoy paradise while you can. For as he songs says, “They pave over…and put in a parking lot.”