That’s the word on the “street”. Everyone is speculating on when and if the ship’s coming in.
We hear: “It’s going to be here today”, or “it’s at the other island and will be over here tomorrow”, or “it’s going to drop our freight today, then anchor at the other island and come back tomorrow to pick us up”. So many possibilities. It’s like the Fulanga version of the Lottery. When’s the ship coming?
(“The Ship” by the way is purported to be a tramp steamer type of vessel. Probably about 100 feet, or so, but we haven’t seen it yet. More to come on this aspect of island living)
Well, it turns out that the latest scoop is the ship has some engine trouble and is anchored at the island next door. This turned into a greater crisis later in the day when it seems people here became concerned that the ship would just skip past the island since it’s tender or boat that brings the cargo in through the reef actually has engine trouble. After a week of activity getting ready for the ship and doing stuff like harvesting coconuts, catching and crating pigs, gathering and processing clams by the bushel and much, much more, the thought that the ship would skip past here was unthinkable. It missed last month too, so the Falungis are absolutely out of everything. Gas, propane, commodities. Right now they are surviving on fish, cassava (a root vegetable) and coconuts. Their one store is out of everything except a few batteries, some steel wool and half dozen jars of jam.
So, given that we were paid a visit today by a “longboat” (very similar to the Mexican panga-about 20 feet long, solid fiberglass, open boat with a substantial outboard that can propel it about 20+ knots) from shore. They were desperate. They had no gas, but wanted to get across the strait between Fulanga and the next island to talk with the supply ship. They wanted our gasoline store for our dinghy. We keep about 2 gallons of gas on deck in a jerry can. The folks here never ask for anything, so when they asked we knew they were desperate. So…sure-your can have our gas. We have some in the dinghy so we’re not high and dry, but we’re hoping they succeed in their mission as it would be more convenient to get the fuel back for our further travels. We’ll see tomorrow how it goes.
Other than the drama of the supply ship, today was delightful. We went to church again. On the one hand, being in church seems a lot the same as being in church anywhere. You see the minister in a coat and tie up behind the lectern and take it for granted that you’re, well, in church. Then he comes out from behind the structure and he has a dress (i.e. a sulu) and is barefoot! OK, so we ARE in Fiji. The singing is glorious and the service, while in Fijian, is fun to participate in. And it was communion day. Apparently it goes consecutively through the villages, so once per month “our” village gets communion. And as Ann delighted in seeing-I had my first communion experience. I could hardly decline as the minister was staring directly at me as he was exhorting people to come forward to take bread and wine and all the little children on the three rows in front of us were straining in their seats begging us forward. “OK, I’m going”. It was a first, and fun. The minister, as he passed across each person muttering in Fijian even changed to English for us; “…body of Christ…etc” So today-I feel blessed.
One of the reasons we stayed here and went to church today was one of the couples in town had asked us several times over the last couple days would we please come to their house for lunch after church this week. We could hardly say no. To give you some idea of the sincerity of the offer: they had no food other than the fish they caught yesterday and some cassava root they prepared. They were almost besides themselves, but actually the food they made was delicious. They made a yellow curry with coconut milk that was delicious and the fish and cassava was we all we needed. After they apologized that the only thing they had was fish, we were glad that we elected to bring them a tin of corned beef and some canned tomatoes which were all very well received.
Hopefully the men in the panga made it across the strait and are convincing the ship to come in tomorrow. We so want to see all our friends in the village get back to regular life with some of the basics like rice, flour, petrol, etc.
That’s life in the hinterlands of Fiji. For us it’s an adventure, for all of our friends it daily life.
P.S. Just an extra word about where we are. We are presently in a small lagoon about 200 meters across and maybe 400 long within a much larger lagoon that’s several miles across with numerous ilands dotted throughout. We have only barely begun to explore this area. It’s dark and we’re looking up, more or less to the south, right at the Southern Cross faithfully shinning above. The wind is gusting a bit through here at up to 15 knots, but the water is fairly smooth since about 200 meters upwind of us are five or six little islets that are breaking up any waves. We’re the only boat here. It’s quiet, but for the sound of little wavelets splashing against the dinghy that’s trailing behind Charisma, the gusts of wind in the rigging and the occasional whistle of a bird over toward shore.
It’s not easy to get here, but it’s so worth it.