Crazy, Crazy, Crazy (by Ann)

Here we are T minus six days (if the weather holds) and things are getting wild. The last week was spent finishing up my job of sixteen years at JStokes, while trying to get down to the marina to put in some quality time prepping Charisma.

As of tonight I have cleaned and shined all but four “holds” on the boat. We figure that we will clean everything out and then start provisioning.  Cleaning everything out includes compacting Bob to fewer drawers so that I can have at least one to hold my 12 allowed items of clothing (including my underwear!) just kidding – I think get more items. Meanwhile at home I am packing up my bedroom. I’ve lived in that room for 28 years! Hard to pack it up – but why am I whining? I’m leaving for the trip of a lifetime! And I am very excited about it.

I am amazed at what it takes to prepare for such a long adventure. I have legal issues to address, animal issues, heck, kid issues too! The lists have kept me up late at night often, until my dear friend, Karin, convinced me to prioritize and focus on the trip. Thank you , Karin!

Thank goodness that Chuckie has been helping with our HaHa costumes. Tinker Bell is done and will be a show-stopper, Peter Pan is done, Captain Hook is close and the crocodile is almost done. Thank God for Chuckie’s help.

And the week was filled with parties! Family, friends and work. I am truly blessed and am loving all of the good wishes. Soon this blog will be from the water! Thanks for all of your support. Please, live vicariously with us!

Ann

Counting down the days

We’re about a week and counting.  Trying to leave next Thursday, 10/6 (or so) pending weather, and whether we have all our gear packed, stowed and ready to go. Been working very hard this week. Ann’s been cleaning and organizing down below in the cabin and I’ve been pulling cables and wire to get the two new solar panels and the 1000 watt voltage inverter running. Long story short, the panels are working (two Kyocera, 130 watt panels wired in parallel to double their amperage), a Blue Sky “duo” regulator (to run the panels and a water generator that we’re waiting for from Hamilton Ferris). Spent waaayyy too long in the Lazarette wiring stuff, but the result is pretty cool. I took us “off the grid” four days ago. The refrigerator runs all night and pulls the batteries down, but the panels, one of which faces the morning sun, power the boat back up and by 9AM, the batteries are completely full again. Really fun to watch how self sufficient we are becoming.Here’s a couple pics of some of our work including the watermaker and THE LISTS! Everything at this point with only a week left is about lists.
Watermaker     Everything has to go on a list, or we instantly forget!

Watermaker lesson

A quick post to note a lesson in watermaker 101.  After installing it, I wanted to run it as much as possible to see what would break BEFORE leaving for a year or more.  That meant running it in the Marina, since I don’t have time to leave the dock and go out into the Bay every couple of days.  I only ran it at very high tide, presumably when the water in the Marina was at its cleanest.  Well, it worked for a couple weeks, but this weekend I ran it and WHEW! stinky water.  Fortunately none went into the tank, I found it in the sampling water.  Rotten egg smell which means marine organisms are clogging (and dying) in the filter.  The water in the marina is just too still and warm and grows a lot of algae.   I immediately did a fresh water rinse (pushing tank water back through the filters instead of pulling salt water).  Smell gone.  Then pulled the main filter.  Filthy!  OK, removed and put a new one in.  No more watermaker in the marina.  Until we leave, I’m just going to do a 2 minute fresh water flush every five days, to keep the water from getting stagnant in the watermaker as recommended by the manufacturer.   Less than a month and we’re in the open ocean!

Getting Ready To Go

Been a while since the last post, but been spending time getting ready for the big trip.  In October, 2011, Ann and I leave for Baja where we’ll spend a couple months, then in March, 2012 we’ll leave for French Polynesia.  Don’t have a firm plan yet, just know we’re leaving and once we get there we’ll see how long we want to stay.

So, in preparation it’s been a busy Spring and Summer:

  • Put in a Spectra Watermaker (pic below)
  • Hauled and painted the bottom
  • Put in a Frigoboat refrigerator (pic of Keel Cooler, the bronze looking thing, below)
  • Bought a new boom (the old one had a permanent bend and was looking like it was getting ready to break.  Ballenger Spars made a new custom one)
  • Took the Cetol off the teak cockpit seats/floor with a heat gun.  The Cetol was waaaay too slippery when wet.  Took two days, but result was excellent.  Now I just have to bleach the wood, sand a bit and recaulk a couple seams and we’re good to go.
  • Bought a new “blue water” fishing pole and reel.  The other one was too small for the kind of fish we were hooking.

Those are the “big ones” and my wallet is lighter, but Charisma is happy.
Also got some brand new storm sails, wheels for the dinghy (to make it easier to haul up on shore) and a bunch of smaller projects to get ready to go.  We’re now in full speed ahead mode with about one month to go before we leave.

Still to come:

  • Solar panels that I will hang on the lifelines/rails
  • A water generator.  Ferris makes a unit you can tow behind the boat.  A small prop and 75 feet of torque-rope and it turns a small generator that puts out quite a lot of electricity for the batteries.  Great for tradewind sailing.

Well, that’s it for this catch-up note.  The blog’s gearing back up.  Keep in touch!

polishing-the-topsides.jpg

keelcooler.jpg   watermaker.jpg

Tuesday, 12/14-Back Through The Gate

After two months and over 3200 miles, we made it back under the Golden Gate bridge just at “sun-up”, which was around 0700.  I put that in quotes since it was raining and cloudy and we didn’t actually “see” the sun.  Almost didn’t see the bridge either since it was alternately cloudy and foggy.  A bit stressful coming in the last 20 miles or so with all the shipping traffic trying to get the same place as we were in the rain/fog.  

The oil pump issue we had off Santa Cruz/Monterey never became a problem.  After throttling down at first, then shutting down for a few minutes while I added some fresh oil, we started back up, saw full pressure and took off.  The pressure didn’t waver after that.  In looking it up later, I’m thinking it might have been either a pressure sensor “hickup” or low oil viscosity.  The oil had almost 200 hours on it and we had been running non-stop since Santa Barbara (about 40 hours).  Maybe the quart of fresh oil helped bump up the viscosity.  Anyway, I’m going to change the oil and filters and watch it carefully for a while.

So for now, signing off, but already getting ready for next year, so stay tuned for updates, new “local” adventures and planning for the “year plus” trip.  Next year: Baja, then Mexico and then the South Seas.  I’ve already got a three page list of stuff to do before then to get ready, so I imagine the time will pass fairly quickly.

Also, a big THANK YOU for everyone who has been following this blog.  Hearing your thoughts and getting your feedback has been awesome.  Thanks so much!

The Bash Back Home

We’re doing the “Bash” off Big Sur right now.  6 foot seas, very closely spaced and about 20 knots of wind.  Just rounded the lighthouse a little while ago and have a course now set for Pillar Point, about 50 miles North.

Before the rest of the update:  HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANN!!  The Dolphin Whisperer’s birthday is today.  She’s garble, garble years young!  Have a great one, sorry we didn’t make it back in time, but will only be a day or so off.

So where were we?  Oh yes, we left King Harbor (Redondo Beach) at 0730 two days ago in thick fog.  Used the radar to pick our way out.  Couldn’t even see the navigation buoys until we were right on them although the radar clearly showed where they were.  Other than the fog on leaving, which lifted a couple hours later, it was an uneventful ride to Santa Barbara.  Got there around 2200 and tied up at the fuel dock for the night.  That way we were first in line for fuel when the attendant got there at 0700.  So, fueled up and out of Santa Barbara on the 12th after a brief 9 hour stay.

Flat water out of Santa Barbara toward Conception, gave Geoff time to do some baking (he’s so domestic!)  So, we kneaded a bunch of bread and he made biscuits and almost made French Bread.  The French Bread didn’t rise, so he made it into breadsticks and a scary looking brick.  Well, really more of a discus.  I used to throw a discus that was about the same size, shape and weight.  Anyway, the biscuits and breadsticks have been tasty and the smell of the baking alone was worth all the effort.

12/12/10.  1430.  Dolphins everywhere.  A hundred or so dolphins came over our way just now.  They look to be feeding so didn’t hang around to play, but always nice to see our friends.

I was just thinking that I was looking forward to doing a bunch of reading on this trip, but actually have only just finished two books that I started back in Berkeley.  The reason is that after two months I’m still not tired of just watching the ocean and sea life.  It really doesn’t get boring and is always changing so I can’t get motivated to crack open a book.  Also, I’m spending my time navigating and taking care of the boat, so that’s my excuse.

12/13/10.  0430.  About 12 miles North of San Simeon.  Really thick fog.  Can’t see anything past the bow lights, so I’m just sitting in the nav station watching the radar.  Fortunately from using it the last two months, I know that it will pick up something as small as a 10 inch crab pot marker (in flat water), so I have confidence anybody else out here will show up on the screen.  Still it’s a little spooky that you can’t see a thing.

1700.  The middle of Monterey Bay.  Right about sunset I noticed the oil pressure was dropping.  It normally never moves, so that caught my attention.  I watched it for a while and it was clearly but slowly going down.  Once it moved out of the “green” zone, I decided we needed to take some action, there’s clearly a problem here.  We throttled down and just doing that made it go back up.  Hmmm.  I checked the oil and it seemed high enough-about 3/4’s full which is where I usually leave it.  However given the situation, I added almost a quart.  We re-started the engine and the pressure is back to normal. Now we’re going to watch it and have set an alarm for 30 minutes which we’ll keep going all night.  For now, it’s been steady for over an hour now.  Maybe it was just a bit of dirt or something in the sensor that got pumped out when we changed the RPM.  We have been at the same 2450 RPM for over 30 hours, but I don’t know.  Keeping fingers crossed.

In King Harbor, Redondo Beach

We got in around 8AM. Geoff grew up in this area, so he took the boat in to his old stomping grounds and was up the dock ramp at the King Harbor Yacht Club in one bound. Before I knew it, he had secured “guest privileges” for us and we’re comfortably ensconced here. Showers, leather couches and wi-fi.

I want to give a big shout-out to Dinah, who is the club manager. She has been a fixture here for quite a few years. Her hospitality is most appreciated and we have a nice spot for Charisma right outside at the guest dock.

How long has Dinah been here? Well, as Geoff, his brother (who lives in the area) and I were heading to the grocery store, Dinah cornered those two and wouldn’t let them out of the club until they stood by her “kids wall” where she penciled in their current height and wrote them name by the “mark” on the wall. It’s a special thing she does with “her kids” where she tracks them over the years. Geoff has grown about 12 inches since his last measurement. 😉

So…we’re just hanging here waiting out the weather. It’s Thursday. There are 13 foot seas and 30 knot winds a little ways up North. Nasty conditions given we want to go North, so we wait. Looks like we have a window starting Saturday. We’ll go from here to Santa Barbara (Hi Kelly!) for a quick fuel stop and then onto Pt Conception. Looks like Conception might be in a good mood by Saturday night or Sunday morning. We’ll round as it lets us and then head up the coast.

Back in the USA!

Whew, after almost 3000 miles by ocean and about two months, we’re back in US waters. A brief stop at Customs (they were very nice other than confiscating our limes, apples and some other vegetables!) and then the fuel dock and we’re off for King Harbor at Redondo Beach where Geoff grew up. He’s going to visit home and I’m going to catch up on my sleep and clean up the boat a bit.  Also we’re waiting out some weather before making the final leg North.

(Enroute to King Harbor, an overnight trip from San Diego. Warning: Vaguely philosophical musings ahead. Proceed at your own risk!)

Time: 2000-There’s a supertanker off our port side that’s bigger and has more lights than 99% of the cities and towns we’ve been through over the past two months. From fish camps to little towns, both Geoff and I have commented on and been impressed by the low-key, use-what-you-have, attitude in Baja. Inspired by the peacefulness and beauty of this starry night, the tanker and lights on shore are signaling that we’re bidding a wonderful, simple life, adios (for now).

2100- The Pacific Ocean is to Port. It’s dark, mysterious even a little ominous at times, but the darkness and emptiness provide a sharp and brilliant contrast that sharpens the stark beauty of the glimmering starlit sky. Los Angeles is to Starboard. Bright lights, lots of action and excitement but the stars in the sky become so diminished you can hardly make them out. Wind on my face, watching our course looking forward we’re going right down the middle between the two sides as Charisma works her way North.

In a similar way, I’ve also seen (and experienced) two different economies. In one, you can accumulate vast wealth but sometimes all that wealth can diminish a sense of life’s natural beauty and simple pleasures. In the other economy, you can accumulate beauty, nature, friendship, as well as maple syrup and chocolate brownies (my “payment” from several other boats I’ve run across for being a single sideband “expert” and helping them to figure out how to operate their radios. I’m working on a business plan for expanding on this in the future 😉 ).

2300- We’re getting close to King Harbor and SHOWERS! I think it’s been over a week since we’ve bathed. We sail 24 hours a day and take three hour watches at night, so you can only sleep for a few hours at a time and it’s gotten too cold for sun showers.

It’s late. I’m at the helm somewhere off Long Beach (Hi Christine!). Geoff is asleep until his watch comes up later.
My nose is cold.
My butt is falling asleep.
My tea burnt my tongue.
My bruises hurt.
I’m sleepy.
I put my nose in my jacket. Now my nose is getting warm, but my glasses have fogged up and I can’t see.
My hands are cold.
I put them in my pocket to warm up-my pockets are wet from the wave I took over the bow.
My hands are still cold. Now they are wet too.
I smell.
I love it out here.

WATER AN INCH BELOW THE FLOORBOARDS!!

The blood in my veins ran cold. We had some rough weather all night and were finally just 20 miles off San Diego when something told me to go check the bilge. When I opened a floorboard the shock of seeing water sloshing against the bottom of it gripped me by the throat.  I knew Charisma has a four foot deep bilge, so water within an inch of the top was a LOT of water. Instantly I pulled off the rest of the floorboards exposing the manual bilge pump and started pumping like hell.  Almost right away it jammed.  A problem I was having as I tested it two months ago before leaving, but I thought it was solved. There had been a lot of shavings and junk in the bilge and the filter kept jamming.  I had cleaned it six times while in Berkeley and it seemed to have cleaned the bilge out, but now the same problem again.  Probably two months of sailing and some small sloshing had dislodged more “gunk”.  I ran to the electric bilge pump and turned it on.  It started running, but watching the bilge, there seemed to be no reduction in water.  I could hear that it was primed and pumping, but not fast enough!!  That possibly meant a BIG leak.

Quickly now, my only alternative was to tear down the filter to the big pump and clean it.  Jumped to it, cleaned, put back together, pump more.  Air was leaking through the filter so the pump wasn’t working.  Broke down the filter again, cleaned the gaskets and back together.  Some air still leaking, but pump working to about half capacity.  Now I’m pumping for all I’m worth and envisioning evacuating the boat into the liferaft I had bought but never intended to actually use.  Thinking my arm is now getting really tired and sore and I’m not sure how much arm strength I’m going to have left, and then I noticed that the water was slowly decreasing.  Yes, definitely getting lower.  I’m making progress!  Another couple minutes and I finally heard that awesome (at this point) sound of the pump pulling only air.  The bilge had emptied.  For now.  Watching deep into the bilge for more water coming in I saw none.  Hmmm.  A mystery.  Looks like we’re not sinking, at least for now.

With a reprieve, I took apart the filter in the large manual pump more thoroughly, especially the gaskets which seal it from air being sucked in and put that back together for the fourth time.  Another look in the bilge, still no more water, so I can finally relax a bit and really start looking around inside the boat to see what the water damage might be.  Turned out we had been on starboard tack all the time so it was the port side that received the water (not the starboard side where my clothes drawer is!)  Unfortunately the port side is where a lot of the food is stored near the floor.  Oops.  Pulled up the cushions looked under the seat into the big bins and…oh yeah, water got in here big time.  Soaked all the vegetables and other stuff, but fortunately most of it was sealed in plastic.  Tortillas, crackers, cereal, rice, pasta and other such “long term” stuff were all protected.  In fact the only casualty was a box of macaroni that had soaked through and “sloshed” its way through the food locker with some no doubt making it to the bilge.  OK, clean the locker, dry the veggies (turned out this didn’t matter too much as most of the citrus, miscellaneous vegetables and apples were confiscated by customs in San Diego a little later that day).

OK, clean up done, still no water in the bilge, time to find out how the heck somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 or so gallons of water made it into the boat.  Boats are supposed to keep this much water OUTSIDE.  Started the mental checklist; chainplates, toe rail, deckplates…too small… anchor hawsepipes… (!!!)  Ah ha, maybe the little holes where the chain went through the caps were sucking down water when we were burying the bow in the big waves all night.  I went forward to have a look and found it big time.  The port anchor chain hawsepipe had been knocked completely off leaving a gaping four inch hole right down into the chain locker with subsequent draining into the bilge.  Yipes.  How did that happen?  Every wave must have dumped a couple gallons of water as the bow went under.  A closer look revealed that the foot or so of chain running along the deck from anchor into the pipe had been getting knocked around by the big waves (I saw chafe on the deck) and finally one wave must have bumped it so hard it knocked the cover up and off.  Actually a big relief to discover the problem.  Now I can fix it and not worry about some invisible leak in the boat.  I have now put a clip on the cover and attached it to a couple feet of chain hanging into the locker, so it’s now weighed down pretty well.  I might yet also put a pin on it when I get back, but that should work for now, especially if I check it periodically if we get into some big seas again.

I think I’ve just found out what they say; “you can never have enough bilge pumps”.